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Ivan Coste Maniere,Sudeep Chhabra,Hamdi Gueguez 글로벌지식마케팅경영학회 2017 Global Fashion Management Conference Vol.2017 No.07
The approach will be to study the fast evolving use of technology in fashion, especially related to creating innovative materials in the clothing business. From discussing nano technology as well as embedded sensors, we shall try to take a look at the evolution of technology in fashion garment construction. Special mention will be given to companies like Intel who are working with designers to create innovative fabrics and material prototypes. We shall also touch upon the use of technology to create unique and rare products that cannot be recreated and hence have a lot of value associated with them.
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跨文化奢侈品溝通中的不對稱硏究: 以中印奢侈品品牌溝通以中印市場的奢侈品品牌溝通比較硏究
( Mukta Ramchandani ),( Ivan Coste-maniere ) 한국마케팅과학회 2012 Journal of Global Fashion Marketing Vol.3 No.2
A luxury brand strongly differentiates itself from the universe of classic consumption goods, resulting in a different way of communication than just "making sales". A basic idea starts from making people dream and aspire. In luxury one applies the communication strategy in order to create a dream and to recharge a brand`s value , not just in order to sell (Kapferer and Bastien , 2009). Through previous researches in the past, scholars have identified a number of concepts which influence consumer`s purchase intention, perceived values and attitudes towards luxury brands.Those findings contribute to understanding in general about individuals` motives and pattern of luxury consumption. Whereas, most of the studies were conducted in developed nations regardless of emerging markets like China. (Wiedmann et al., 2007; Wang et al., 2010, 2011). The luxury and fashion brands are focusing on the penetration in the emerging markets and are creating a large consumer base with dependence on communication strategy but in the long term this has a negative affect since it should be critical for them to understand what consumer values trigger the purchase of their brands and why? Theoretical backdrop in the past has neither been much established between the asymmetry of brand communication in the developed and developing countries nor between the cognitive responses of consumers and the brand identity. As such, developing a deeper understanding about the influence of implemented strategies upon brand identities in consumer buying patterns is relevant key in determining how such practices can confer and be followed in developed and developing economies. Giving a competitive advantage on all adopting firms or the ones that intend to embed and capitalize on their business practices. This research is focused on the asymmetry in multicultural luxury communication but it is centralized around the comparative analysis of luxury communication between India and China with a minor focus on France. France for long has been considered the origin of luxury and fashion industry and it sets as a suitable example for this research. France is a significant market for luxury brands and is prevalent since years due to the heritage and exclusive artisan values imparted in the brand image targeted at the consumers who are more like connoisseurs and are aware of the product they are considering luxury. Ethical and moral considerations impact the purchase of luxury products. Communication can be portraying bling bling in some cultures and in some it could be under the jurisdiction of censorship. Sometimes, it`s a trend which is followed by the "peer feedback" or the "word of mouth". But sometimes there are the direct communicative tools used by the brands through magazines, billboard, internet and social media that have a strong impact on the mindset. The objectives of this research were achieved through adoption of two perspectives simultaneously - of the communication strategies adopted by the luxury brands and of the customer. Countries are compared by various dimensional scales and culture can be quantified but also it could be correlated with different aspects of consumption. This research has tried to answer the questions like -how do luxury brands influence the luxury consumers based on multicultural paradigms? What are the major consumer motivations in India, China and France for buying a luxury product? Which brands are perceived as luxury, where and why? What are the converging and diverging factors that determine the modes of communication implemented? The multifaceted dimensions and concepts involved in cross-cultural communication like cognitive response theory, mimetic desire, celebrity influences on potential consumers of the luxury and fashion brands are well studied in this research through the survey and the in depth interview. The questionnaire was designed considering the participant`s responses with their motivational factors, places of purchasing, impact of celebrity endorsements, attractiveness and expertise on the brand communications adopted in their country. Due to the lack of extensive secondary data present on the communication strategies for China the focused group interviews and a personal interview are considered as the major approaches for collecting the data. It provided the benchmark to allow for various forms of imperfect markets in simulation to explain the probable outcomes of the luxury brand communication in China. The literature review comprises of the elements, concepts and theories related to the consumer behavior, the modes of communications adopted and how they impact the countries. The secondary data and the relation with Hofstede`s five dimensional cultural differences has been related to the findings and observations made with the Primary data for China, India and France. This method is based on the originality and is direct. We have drawn and inference through this study that the luxury brands can be more proactive and more cultural conscious when entering huge multicultural economy like India and China which must not be hindered with the traditional communication process of portraying the brand identity to the connoisseur category and thus prevent value shifts amongst the brand positioning.With the lesser dependency on making a brand fall prey to a trend it should strategically be identified as market driving than the market driven force. This new step could serve as the launch pad in increasing the brand value catering to the aspirational and admirational consumers. Confirming the interest of the potential consumers to consolidate and support a brand`s positioning as luxury. Furthermore, diverging the impact from "conspicuous consumption" to "brand loyalty". The structure of this paper constitutes the introduction of the concepts involved in the study, research methodology, discussion and conclusion with the merger of solutions for managerial implications.
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( Tinne Van Gorp ),( Jonas Hoffmann ),( Ivan Coste Maniere ) 한국마케팅과학회 2012 Journal of Global Fashion Marketing Vol.3 No.3
在大多數經濟領域中, 品牌建設是實現差異化的核心。消費者購買奢侈品最重要的是盡可能的象征其身빈。對于奢侈品公司而言, 品牌和品牌形象是其競爭優勢的兩個關鍵点, 品牌建設則是其核心能力。建立一個品牌, 首先需要了解타的維度。Fionda and Moore(2009)提出時尙奢侈品牌包括9個維度, 依次是淸석的品牌標識、營銷傳播、産品的完整性、品牌標志、昻貴的价格、專營性、傳承、服務環境、文化。本硏究基于Fionda and Moore (2009)的成果, 擴展到了一個特定的奢侈品行業--奢侈皮具品牌。品牌在奢侈品行業是最寶貴的。根据2010國際品牌排名, Louis Vuitton价値218億美元, Hermes价値47億美元。本硏究主要涉及四個傳統的奢侈皮具品牌, Delvaux, Bottega Veneta, Hermes and Loewe。四個品牌都來自于毆洲, 比利時(Delvaux), 意大利(Bottega Veneta), 法國(Hermes)和西班牙(Loewe); Delvaux和Hermes是獨立的企業, 然后Loewe (LVMH)和Bottega Veneta (PPR) 則分別이屬于兩大奢侈品企業集團。結果表明, 九個維度被認定适用于品牌建設過程: 1.淸석的品牌標識--次維度包括全球市場策略、品牌价値、情感和激情吸引力; 2.營銷傳播--相似于先前的硏究, 此維度包含直銷、時裝秀和公共關系。我們突出了網站和全球數字媒體的重要性。3.産品的完整性--質量, 功能性和工藝保證了奢侈品牌的地位。Fionda and Moore (2009)定義了次維度“創新和季節性産品”和“質量, 功能性和工藝”。然而, 季節性産品與傳統奢侈皮具産品相比不受重視, 因爲傳統奢侈皮具擁有許多永久收藏品。一個叫做“遺傳商品”的子維度被列入了永久商品。4.品牌標志--所有公司都擁有標志性商品, 一個著名的創意方向, 一個公認的産品風格和品牌元素。此項硏究中的公司也爲其他公司設計産品或者服務環境。通過品牌名字的融合, 各家公司間互惠互利。此外, 這些公司在精品店展示藝術品和商品, 也會同時邀請設計這些商品的藝術家一起參加。5.昻貴的价格--타們的相關性被廣泛討論。此案例中的公司都价格昻貴, 沒有給出흔高的折구。6.專營權--限量版與專營范圍都是專營權的子維度, 涉及産品的可得性和可用性。7.品牌的歷史和傳統有助于樹立品牌的可고性。例如, Hermes和Delvaux都積極利用타們的歷史和傳統。8.環境與服務--優質的服務和旗艦店擴展了品牌體驗。案例中的公司, 타們在全球的店鋪幷不是裝修的一樣, 因此不支持Degoutte (2007)的理論, 但是타們支持Keller (2009)的理論, 完全控制着大量的商鋪。這些店鋪地處重要地段幷提供一流的服務。網上商店可被列入此維度。9.文化--根据Fionda和Moore (2009), 文化是指品牌背后的文化知識。專業知識需要在組織內一致的貫穿所有等級, 以確保品牌的成功。此硏究展示了少量的關于此維度的證据。盡管是探索性的, 此硏究有助于學習目前文獻中的奢侈品維度。當建立一個奢侈皮具品牌, 修改后的奢侈品牌광架提供了一個有价値的相關于維度的槪述。此外, 發現了五個子維度, 分別爲網站, 網上商店, 藝術련接, 高級定制和工坊。品牌建設的過程要求所有維度與子維度具有一致性與管理同步性, 因此, 當品牌建設處于如此富有挑戰與多變的産業之中時, 此修訂本爲企業提供其所需顧及要素的更新情況。未來對于此類主題的硏究可以使用不同的硏究方法, 幷選用更多的公司作爲案例。縱向比較品牌在加入奢侈品集團后如何适應, 將會是흔有趣的硏究方向。例如, Loewe和BottegaVeneta被LVMH和PPR收購后, 品牌戰略會不會改變?這一問題可以爲獨立公司提供線索, 在一個行業連續整合狀態下如何區分和生存, 近期LVMH收購Bulgari就是一個흔好的例子。령外, 此項硏究主要關注毆洲奢侈皮具品牌。硏究結果是否也适用于遵循不同商業模式的美國公司?同樣的, 나些維度具有新的特征。Hermes創建了中國制造的品牌--Shang-Xia。나些品牌建設适用于這類品牌?原産地將會有什요影響? Brand building is central to achieving differentiation in most economic sectors. This is paramount for luxury goods where customers buy a symbol as much as a product. The brand and its image are key factors for competitive advantage and brand building is a central competence for luxury goods companies. This study aims to explore brand building of traditional luxury leather goods brands. A multiple case study of Delvaux, Bottega Veneta, Hermes and Loewe allows us to replicate and extend Fionda and Moore`s (2009) findings about luxury fashion brands. Results show that the nine dimensions identified by these authors also apply to these brands. Moreover, five additional sub-dimensions are uncovered-website, e-shop, link with art, customization and workshop-and these should be taken into account in the brand building process. These exploratory results provide insights to managers for their on-going efforts to keep their brands competitive.
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