Relationship between Physical and Low-stress Mechanical Properties to Fabric Hand of Woollen Fabric with Fusible Interlinings

Qian Zhang,Chi-wai Kan,Chee-kooi Chan 한국섬유공학회 2018 Fibers and polymers Vol.19 No.1

Relationships among physical properties, low-stress mechanical properties and hand value of woollen fabric with and without fusible interlinings were examined. Subjective evaluation and objective measurements were analysed statistically. The results reveal that thickness, weight and adhesive density properties of woollen fabric with fusible interlinings impact hand value. Further exploration of adhesive point density, thickness and weight show effect on the lowstressmechanical properties from high to low in order. This study provides new theoretical insights on hand value and lowstress mechanical properties of woollen fabric with interlinings which is predicted by physical properties. It provided a convenient method for choosing request interlining for woollen fabric using for men’s suits.

Property Comparison of Woollen Fabrics with Fusible and Printable Interlinings

Qian Zhang,Chi-wai Kan 한국섬유공학회 2018 Fibers and polymers Vol.19 No.5

Suits produced now are high class with good quality due to advanced manufacturing techniques. Woollen fabrics and interlinings are the major materials for suit manufacture. Using woollen fabric and interlining to produce quality fabric has become an important production process. However traditional fusible interlinings are costly and involve a tedious production process, and they have some drawbacks such as strike through and bubbles. In this study, a printable interlining is proposed which can be used in place of fusible interlining. Screen-printing technique directly prints on the shell fabric and it is named printable interlining which enhances quality and reduces operational cost for garment manufacturers. Fabric quality is generally perceived through fabric hand value. Based on a series of laboratory experiments carried out to investigate total hand value and low-stress mechanical properties, this paper compares the impact of fusible interlining and printable interlining on woollen fabric using the Kawabata Evaluation System. Total hand value and five low-stress mechanical properties, tensile, bending, shearing, surface and compression were obtained. The results prove that printable interlinings can replace fusible interlinings on woollen fabrics and improve the fabric total hand value and bending, shearing and tensile properties. Printable interlining can be widely used in mass suit production with simple control process and it is cost-efficient.

Instrumental and Sensory Evaluations of Drying and Stickiness Properties of Fabrics

Kam-Hong Chau,Chi-wai Kan 한국섬유공학회 2019 Fibers and polymers Vol.20 No.1

Drying and stickiness of textile fabrics on skin are crucial factors that affect the wear comfort. In this review, we discuss the current assessment methods for drying and stickiness properties of textile materials. The scope of this study includes methods that involve instrumental setups as well as perception assessments. Our analysis focuses on the comparisons between current experimental methods. The comparisons include materials used for setups, operation procedures and parameters evaluated. While there is room to further develop measurement of drying and stickiness properties of fabrics, recommendations are made for each of these factors. These suggestions could help future development of the measurement methods and also fabric materials development.

Effect of Laser Treatment on Pigment Printing on Denim Fabric -A Study of Colour Properties

Shun-ting Tse,Chi-wai Kan 한국섬유공학회 2022 Fibers and polymers Vol.23 No.3

In this study, denim fabric samples were pigment printed with and without laser treatment, the two commonly usedmethods in textile and fashion industry for adding colour effect to denim fabric. Various pigment printing and laser treatmentparameters were used and their relationships with final colour properties of the denim fabric samples were investigated. Afterthe treatments, colour properties of denim fabric samples were evaluated by CIE L*, CIE a*, CIE b* and CIE ΔE values. Experimental results revealed that lightness (CIE L* value) of denim fabric samples was affected by the mesh count, laserintensity and the sequence of applying pigment printing and laser treatment. It was found that a redder (evaluated by CIE a*value) and yellower (evaluated by CIE b* value) denim fabric samples were produced by applying laser before pigmentprinting.

Magnitude Estimation Approach for Assessing Stickiness Sensation Perceived in Wet Fabrics

Ka-Po Maggie Tang,Kam-Hong Chau,Chi-wai Kan,Jin-tu Fan 한국섬유공학회 2018 Fibers and polymers Vol.19 No.11

Sweating will trigger stickiness sensation and affecting sensorial comfort of wearer. This study aims at assessing stickiness sensation perceived in wetted fabrics utilizing the Body Movement Simulator (BMS). BMS was built to drive the samples to and fro subject’s volar forearms, providing repeatable fabric movement. Assessors were asked to compare the sample with the reference and assign numerical value to the sample using the magnitude estimation approach. 22 types of fabrics with different constructional parameters and fiber content were assessed by 23 assessors. Statistical analysis shows that within-judge reliability and between-judge consistency are satisfactory, and significant between-fabric differences are observed, demonstrating that both experimental method and assessor panel are reliable. The results reveal that thicker fabrics with higher absorption capacity and less contact area with skin contribute to weaker stickiness sensation. The perceived stickiness is highly related to water content and saturation level of samples, but poorly related to its surface friction and roughness in dry condition. This subjective assessment method is useful for assessing the stickiness sensation in textiles especially for sportswear, intimate apparel or hygiene products.

Measurement of Liquid Transport Properties of Sanitary Napkin with Modified Forced Flow Water Transport Tester

Ka-Po Maggie Tang,Ching-Hei Li,Chi-wai Kan 한국섬유공학회 2019 Fibers and polymers Vol.20 No.12

Sanitary napkin is worn in direct skin contact and is an essential product for most women. Its liquid transportproperties, depending on the material and design, affect skin wetness, skin irritating potential and comfortable feeling. Disposable sanitary napkin is commonly used whilst reusable sanitary napkin is also available in the market for sustainablereason. In this study, a measurement method originated from Forced Flow Water Transport Tester (FFWTT) was introducedwhich can characterize the direction of liquid transport of sanitary napkin under different pressure loadings. Disposablesanitary napkins with nonwoven or perforated film surface were compared against the reusable sanitary napkins. The resultsfound that the reusable sanitary napkins tend to accumulate more next-to-skin moisture than the disposable sanitary napkin atequivalent loadings. Also, its transplanar wicking is poor. Besides, disposable sanitary napkins incorporated withsuperabsorbent polymer provide acceptable liquid transport property whilst those made of flex foam give the bestperformance.

Instrumentation for Measuring the Wet Frictional Property of Sanitary Pads

Ka-Po Maggie Tang,Ching-Hei Li,Chi-wai Kan 한국섬유공학회 2020 Fibers and polymers Vol.21 No.1

Women wear sanitary pad for whole day during their menstruation period. They have direct skin contact with iteven for sleeping and exercising. The presence of sweat and menstrual blood increases the moisture level and the adhesion ofliquid to textile causing sensorial discomfort. This study describes the design and uses of modified Textile StickinessMeasurement System (TSMS) which can characterize the frictional properties of sanitary pads under both dry and wetconditions. The uniqueness of this measurement system is that the wetness level of the pad is adjustable and the surfaceprofile of the contacting object (i.e. Lorica®Soft) does simulate the condition of human skin. Also, it does not have restrictionon the type of sanitary pad that can be tested. Among the 12 sanitary pads tested (disposable and reusable types), the frictionalforce for the disposable sanitary pads is lower than the reusable pads whilst the performance of disposable sanitary pads withnonwoven surface is lower than the one with perforated surface. These can attribute to their liquid transport property andsurface feature. For those with better liquid transport property, less water will stay on skin surface and so the adhesionbetween skin and textiles is lower. For those with protruding fibers on its surface, it reduced the contact area and so thefrictional force is lower.

A Systematic Literature Network Analysis: Development of Manufacturing, Enhancement and Sustainability of Fiber-Reinforced Polymer Composites (1998–2020) and Future Research Agenda

Ivan King‑Hei Or,Chris Kwan‑Yu Lo,Chi‑Wai Kan 한국섬유공학회 2023 Fibers and polymers Vol.24 No.3

The existing literature review articles in composite materials research field target a particular resin material which cannot show the full picture of the research area. The traditional literature reviews are vulnerable to subjective opinion on selecting, reviewing and analyzing the related articles. In this systematic literature review, keywords were input into Web of Science (WOS) search engine to collect relevant articles from the database. This method can more comprehensively review articles that are related to fiber-reinforced polymer composites. Articles published from 1970 to 2020 were collected from the WOS database. Keywords input were relevant to manufacturing, enhancement and sustainability of fiber-reinforced polymer composites and their variants. 151 articles were selected based on keyword filtering, nature of articles and content, and further examined with citation network analysis. Seven principal clusters were formed and evaluated. Publication year, geographical locations, research areas and journal of the selected articles were presented statistically. Two major clusters, “fabrication and molding methods of composites” and “properties and performance of multiscale composites”, were identified and a few emerging clusters were found to establish their networks including topics about impact response, natural fiber, rapid curing, nanofiller, and hydrothermal aging. Future research and more results are needed in those emerging clusters.

Effect of Solvent Dyeing Medium on Dye Encapsulation and Non-Aqueous Dyeing of Cotton Fabric with Rhamnolipid (RL) Microbial Biosurfactant-Based Reactive Dye Encapsulated Reverse Micelles

Yiu Lun Alan Tang,Cheng-hao Lee,Yanming Wang,Chi‑wai Kan 한국섬유공학회 2023 Fibers and polymers Vol.24 No.12

Feasibility and applicability of rhamnolipid (RL) microbial biosurfactant-based reverse micellar non-aqueous system in different solvent medium for dyeing of cotton fabrics was investigated. In this study, several solvents, including heptane, octane, nonane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (D5), and paraffin liquid (PL), were chosen as the dyeing medium for non-aqueous dyeing of cotton fabrics with fixed dyeing parameters. The dyeing properties of these RL reverse micellar dyed samples in different solvent medium were examined and compared with the conventional water-dyed samples in terms of color yield (K/Ssum value), CIE L*a*b* values, color levelness and reflectance. Most non-aqueous RL reverse micellar dyed samples exhibited better color yield than conventional water-dyed samples. The surface morphology of dyed cotton samples and the dye encapsulation morphology in different solvent medium were observed by SEM and TEM, respectively. Most non-aqueous dyed samples yielded good to excellent levelness comparable to water-dyed samples. However, poor levelness and bad levelness were found for D5-and PL-dyed samples. Further modification of dyeing parameters would be needed to obtain the best dyeing results for D5-dyed and PL-dyed samples.

Dyeing Wool Knitted Fabric in Nano-scale Reverse Micelle with Reactive Dyes - A Computer Colour Matching Study

Cheng-hao Lee,Yanming Wang,Yiu-lun Tang,Chi-wai Kan 한국섬유공학회 2021 Fibers and polymers Vol.22 No.5

The colour quality assessment of reverse micelle-based (in octane or nonane medium) and conventional waterbaseddyed wool knitted fabric has been investigated using computer colour matching (CCM) approach. Both water-basedand non-aqueous based dyeing methods exhibited no chromatic shift from the reflectance curves and established goodlinearity in the construction of calibration curves. The linearity of both calibration curves in terms of R2 value played a criticalrole in CCM. The colour yield obtained from reverse micellar dyed fabric samples was higher than the colour yield valuesfrom wool knitted fabrics dyed in water bath under different dye percentages. The CCM predicted concentrations were ingood agreement to theoretical concentrations for both dyeing systems. To conclude, the results showed that reverse micellardyeing in octane and nonane is capable of generating reliable colour recipes. The relative unlevelness indices (RUI) obtainedfrom dyed wool knitted fabrics using reverse micellar approach reveal good to excellent levelness, which fulfills therequirements of the textile processing industry. TEM picture illustrated that reverse micelles are in nano-scale and this couldenhance the dyeing effect of wool with reactive dyes.