자외선A에 의한 모발 성질의 변화에 관한 연구

장미화(Chang, Mi Haw) 한국디자인문화학회 2016 한국디자인문화학회지 Vol.22 No.2

대부분의 사람들은 자외선A에 의한 피부 보호와 손상을 막기 위해 여러 가지 방법으로 피부 관리를 하거나 보호하지만 두피나 모발에 미치는 자외선의 영향은 얼굴이나, 신체를 둘러싼 피부만큼 신경을 쓰지 않는 경우가 많다. 모발의 표피는 비늘상의 단단한 케라틴 단백질이 여러 겹으로 중첩되어 있으며 외부의 자극으로부터 보호 역할을 한다. 그러나 일상생활에서 빈번하게 여러 가지 화학적, 물리적 시술을 행함으로써 모발은 여러 가지 자극을 받고 있다. 여러 가지 자극 중 일광에 의해서 특히 자외선A에 의해 어떤 영향을 받는지 살펴보기 위해 모발의 종류를 자연 모발(Virgin Hair), 퍼머 모발(Permanently Waved Hair), 염색 모발(Colored Hair)로 나누어 자외선A를 조사하고 표피의 형태학적 변화, 인장 강도의 변화, 색상의 변화를 측정하였다. 연구 결과 모발은 자외선에 의해 손상이 되어 지고 모발 종류 중에서 퍼머 모발과 염색 모발이 자외선에 의해 표면 손상이 가장 많이 일어났다. 모발이 손상되면 푸석푸석해지거나 팽팽함, 탄력성, 광택이 없어지면서 헤어스타일이 정돈되지 않거나 잘 유지 되지 않는다. 자외선A 조사기간이 길수록 인장강도는 감소했는데 자외선은 모발에 시술된 방법과 모발 시술에 따라서 모발 깊숙이 침투하여 강도를 현저히 저하시키기도 했다. 또한 색상의 변화는 대체로 명도는 높아지고, 채도는 낮아지므로 흐리고 선명하지 못한 색상으로 퇴색되고 있다. 특히 염색 모발은 변색과 강도, 표면형태의 변화가 많이 변화하였다. 이 연구는 모든 형태의 모발은 자외선 차단제가 함유한 제품을 바르고 특히 염색 모발은 염색 전용 샴푸를 사용해야 한다. 또한 최근에는 특정한 계절, 장소, 시간에 관계없이 지구의 온난화와 점점 심각해지는 환경오염으로 부터 모발이 변색되거나 갈라지고 빠지는 현상으로 모발의 본래의 아름다움을 손상 시키므로 모발도 피부와 마찬가지로 관리와 보호를 해야만 자외선으로부터 변색과 손상을 막을 수 있고 더 나아가 자외선 제품 활용성에 대하여 인식을 높을 수 있다. Most people mainly do care for skin to maintain and protect from an ultraviolet A, while the impact of an ultraviolet A on scalp or hair is not that significantly considered as the part of face or others. The epidermis of hair plays such protection role from an external stimulus, consisting of many folds of solid keratin protein. However, the hair has been diversely under impetus from the act of various frequent chemical or physical procedures. In order to find out the impact of sunlight, in particular an ultraviolet A, the research was conducted with the basis of three hair types, which are virgin hair, permanently waved hair and colored hair. The morphological change of epidermis, the change of tensile strength and color were measured. The result of the research revealed that all types of hair were damaged by ultraviolet rays, and most damages were arisen in permanently waved hair and colored hair. For the case of hair damage, it not only leads the hair to become crumbly, and lose its firm, elasticity and luster, but also causes the hair not to be well-arranged and maintained. As the period of the research on an ultraviolet A becomes longer, there was the reduction of tensile strength, however, the ultraviolet rays induce that strength to be degraded by deeply penetrating into the hair, according to the method of hair procedure and its type. Furthermore, the change of color showed the higher brightness and the lower chroma, becoming further blurred and grainy. Specially, there were numerous changes on the colored hair, such as discoloration, strength and surface form. This research suggests that all types of hair must use the item, which contains the function of sunblock. In case of colored hair, it has to use an exclusive shampoo for that type of hair. In addition, the more serious global warming and the more severe environmental issues can negatively impact on the beauty of hair by losing its color or elasticity, regardless of specific season, place and time. The hair also must be well-cared and protected from ultraviolet rays to maintain its color and damage so that it ultimately can result into an increased level of awareness for the use of sunblock product.

키토산 처리에 의한 모발 염색성 및 항균성 연구

장미화 ( Mi Haw Chang ) 한국미용학회 2016 한국미용학회지 Vol.22 No.1

This study experimented hair-dyeing properties with changes in the type of chitosan, concentration, dyeing time, and dyeing temperature and tested its antimicrobial activity after adding chitosan to acid dyes. According to measurements with three different types of chitosan in terms of molecular weight, dyeing properties improved as molecular weight increased. K/S decreased up to a chitosan concentration of 0.5%. At more than 0.6%, K/S significantly increased, and hair color turned dark red puple. In terms of dyeing time, when 45 minutes passed, hair color dramatically changed in acid dyes without chitosan. In chitosan-treated hair, however, changes in hair color occurred at an elapse of 25 minutes. In other words, chitosan-treated dyes shortened hair-dyeing time as well. In terms of dyeing time by temperature, as the temperature increased, dyeing properties improved in both chitosan-treated hair and chitosan-free hair. However, they continued to increase when the color of chitosan-treated hair was highly superior. For the measurement of color fastness, both wash fastness and color fastness to light were tested. The wash fastness was tested five times. Even though no dyeing difference was found in chitosan-treated hair, large color differences were found in chitosan-free hair as washing frequency increased. According to the measurement of color fastness to light by irradiating UV rays, there were no color changes in the chitosan-treated hair. According to an analysis of antimicrobial properties by dropping chitosan droplets into the acid dye, as chitosan concentration increased, antimicrobial resistance was high with widths.

홍화(Cartbamus tinctorius)로 염색한 모발염색에서 용매의 효과

장미화 ( Mi Haw Chang ),김춘일 ( Chun Il Kim ) 한국미용학회 2009 한국미용학회지 Vol.15 No.4

Human hair is a kind of fibrous keratin which has much cystine residues like wool fiber. It protects human head from the dangerous shock and is an organ to relase heavy metal in human body. Recently, in many dyeing field there is a trend to utilize the natural dyes. Safflower is a reddish natural mordant dye. When the safflower is applied in human hair dyeing, it is expected that dyeing rate will be slow and wash fastnss will be poor on account of large molecular weight relative to oxidative dyes. In this work, we investigate the effects of benzyl alcohol in hair dyeing with natural dye saffolwer. Dyeability of hair increased significantly by adding benzyl alcohol in safflower dyeing. Neverthless the hair was slightly damaged during dyeing, the dyed hair showed a good wash fastness.

산성 염료의 모발 염색성 연구(1)

장미화(Mi Haw Chang) 한국인체미용예술학회 2016 한국인체미용예술학회지 Vol.17 No.4

Although permanent hair dyeing gives an advantage to wash fastness, it may introduce damages on hair skin from the oxidant used. On the contrary, when acid dyes are used for semi permanent hair dyeing, they show poor wash fastness in the absence of damages on the hair. In the present study, the milling acid dyes, such as C.I. Acid Blue 90 were chosen to approach the appropriate conditions for semi permanent hair dyeing. The chemical structures of dyestuffs were characterized by UV and FT-IR analysis. The maximum absorption wavelength determined by the UV-visible spectrum were 520㎚ for the respective dyestuff of C.I. Acid Blue 90. The milling type acid dyes showed good affinity to hair. As the concentration of acid dyes increased from 0.1% up to 1.0%, the dye adsorption to hair was sharply increased at relatively lower concentration and reached saturation at above 0.3 - 0.4% showing almost Langmuir type isotherm. Therefore, the dyeing process can be explained as ionic bonding of the dye molecules on the positive site in the hair. The dyeing mechanism can be confirmed by the effects of pH on dye exhaustion shown as dye uptake increase at lower pH and higher K/S value obtained at higher temperature and longer dyeing time.

계면활성제가 모발 염모제의 산성 염료에 미치는 영향

김란(Ran Kim),장미화(Mi Haw Chang) 한국디자인문화학회 2015 한국디자인문화학회지 Vol.21 No.2

국내시장에서 국산제품보다 외국 브랜드 염모제의 판매량이 더 높아 현실적으로 화학적 염모제를 사용할 수밖에 없는 상황이다. 이 상황에서 모발 염모제 제형화시 화학 성분 함유량을 낮게 낮추고, 여러 가지 화학 첨가물을 최소화하는 것이 필요하다. 또한 유해 성분 사용을 금지하고, 염색성을 향상시키는 방법을 연구해서 모발 염모제의 안정성을 높이는 것이 바람직하다고 생각한다. 본 연구는 밀링형 산성 염료 중에서 Disazo계 산성염료인 C.I. Acid Red 114을 선정한 후 모발 염모제인 산성 염모제를 제형화 하려고 한다. 산성 염모제를 제형화 시킬 때 다양한 첨가물이 들어가는데 그 중에서 계면활성제에 대한 효과를 검토하고자 한다. 가장 우선적으로 산성 염료로 모발 염모제 제형화시 사용된 염료의 최대흡수파장 λmax과 구조를 확인하기 위해서 FT-IR분석, UV-Vis 흡수스펙트럼 분석을 해보았다. FT-IR분석에 의해 염료의 구조를 확인 하였으며 용매로는 benzyl alcohol (C6H5CH2OH)를 사용하였다. 계면활성제의 종류에는 양이온 계면활성제, 음이온 계면활성제, 비이온 계면활성제를 첨가하여 모발의 염색성을 검토하였다. 실험 결과 산성 염료에서는 양이온 계면활성제가 염색성이 우수하였다. 또한 양이온 계면활성제를 농도 별로 염색을 실시하여 농도가 0.15%∼0.2% 첨가하였을 때 가장 염색성이 우수함을 알았다. 산성 염료는 염료분자가 커서 모발 깊숙이 침투하지 못하고 모발 표면에 흡착하여 세정 견뢰도가 낮아서 여러 가지 계면활성제를 가지고 세정 견뢰도를 실험한 결과 양이온 계면활성제가 다른 계면활성제 보다 우수하였다. 그 이유는 양이온 계면활성제가 염료와 반응하여 모발의 표면에 염착되어 모발과의 염착력을 증가시키고 모발과 염료간의 이온 결합력을 증가시키기 때문이라고 추측할 수 있다. Because foreign brands hair dyes outsell domestic products in the domestic market. so we cannot help using chemical hair dyes. Therefore, when hair dyes is formulated, it is required that content of chemical composition lower its content and minimize many chemical additives. Also, harmful ingredients are prevented and it is desirable that stability of hair dyes become high through improving dyeing property. In the present study, the milling acid dyes, such as C.I. Acid Red 114 was chosen to approach the appropriate conditions for Acid Dyes. When surfactants was added in the bath, the uptake of C.I. Acid Red 114 was increased dramatically. the surfactant was used as a cationic surfactant, an anionic surfactant, a noninoic surfactant. The chemical structures of dyestuffs were characterized by UV and FT-IR analysis. The maximum absorption wavelength determined by the UV-visible spectrum were 620㎚ for the respective dyestuff of C.I. Acid Red 114. Dyeing is a cationic surfactant was the most effective. As the concentration of cationic surfactant increased from 0.15% up to 0.2% the dye adsorption. Acid dyes low in washing fastness of the dye molecule cursor, as a result of the washing fastness test with a surfactant, the cationic surfactant is a high fastness. The behaviour is explained by the cationic surfactant access to the hair surface in advance of the dye molecules which then improve affinity of the dye molecules in hair surface.