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서정권 한국의류산업학회 2001 한국의류산업학회지 Vol.3 No.1
In order to investigate the influence o� thread tension on the structure of lockstitch seam, stitch tightness and seam balance ratio are measured at various tensions of needle thread ad bobbin thread. The structure of lockstitch was shown in terms of skeleton stitch models to obtain quantitative analysis of stitch tightness. The balanced seam formed to the rectangular stitch model under low bobbin thread tension, but the fabric tightness produced by interlaced needle and bobbin thread under high bobbin thread tension. In this paper, new equation to obtain seam balance ratio was proposed for a lockstitch seam. By using the new equation, the seam balance ratio was not affected by the stitch density and fabric thickness. In order to form the balanced seam, the ratio on tension of needle thread' and bobbin thread was shout 6: 1∼7: 1 in this experiment.
서정권,최영엽 한국섬유공학회 1996 한국섬유공학회지 Vol.33 No.1
The Penetration force and energy Per cycle developed during needle Penetration into and withdrawal from a fabric were measured on a sewing machine attached penetration force detector. Five major variables considered were sewing speed, needle diameter, needle point shape, needle surface finish, and number of fabric plies. It was found that the sewing speed had little effect on the penetration energy in the range of actual sewing speed. The needle diameter significantly affected the penetration energy, but the needle size did not affect the heat of the needle. The heat rises as the needle diameter increases, however, the increase of the heat dissipation due to the heat conduction and heat convection did not show much difference in the needle temperature. The usage of medium ballpoint needle was effective in reducing the penetration energy according to the type of fabric and especially the usage of super needle distinctly lowered the penetration energy. As expected, the number of fabric plies were the most important factors influencing the penetration energy.