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- 저자 : 金惠全 ( Hyeh Jun Kim ) (검색결과 1 건)
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고구려벽서복식(高句麗壁書服飾)과 고송총벽서복식(高松塚壁書服飾)의 비교연구(比較硏究)
金惠全 ( Hyeh Jun Kim ) 숭실대학교 인문과학연구소 1978 인문학연구 Vol.8 No.-
The costume on the wall painting of the Takamas tomb which was excavated from Nara in Japan has often been compared with the costume of the Kogooryeo period. This paper explores the relation between the ancient costume of Korea and Japan by examining many common factors and a few differences. The typical articles of Kogooryeo costume include the following: Upper garments: a jacket (襦) and overcoat (袍) hemmed at the end of the sleeves, at the bottom and at the facing from neck to bottom, with wide sleeves. A tight fitting cloth girdle around the normal waist line. Lower garment: full length pleated skirt The articles of Takamas costume: Upper garment: a left-side overlapping overcoat which hangs down loosely, with wide sleeves and a crosswise cloth (襴) at the lower part of the overcoat. Only the end of the sleeves are hemmed with another fabric. A narrow cloth girdle fitting loosely about the hipline. Lower garment: full length pleated skirt When we compare the Kogooryeo costume with the Takamas, there are many common factors such as: An upper jacket with a pleated lower skirt. Facing from neckline to the end (直領), ‘Sub’ (只), ‘Ran’ (欄), wide sleeves, cloth girdle,pleated skirt with stripes of many colors and the hairstyle. These many common factors lead us to think that the Taka mas costume must be of Korean origin. And there are also some minor, subtle differences which can not be asserted as Kogooryeo costume. For example: very small ‘Ot-go-reum’ (;used as fastener) attached to ‘Jikryong’ (直領), the tying and location of the girdle, the silhouette, folded cloth under the ‘Ran’, no underwear, and type of the face. Therefore it is possible that Takamas custume can be categorized as that of Baek-Je in the light of the following reasons. First, according to the old documents, the womens’jacket of Baek-Je is described as ‘Ui-sapo’ (衣似袍;the upper garment resembles an overcoat in length). ‘Ui-sa-po’ means the medium length of a jacket and an overcoat. The very way the ‘Ran’ is attached to the lower part of Takamas overcoat enables us to call it a ‘Po’ (袍) legimately. Second, the cloth girdle of Kogooryeo fits tightly around the waist line, while the narrow cloth girdle of Takamas hangs loosely around the hipline. That alone shows that the latter was used as a decoration, but not for protection against cold. Moreover, the wall painting of Takamas does not indicate any underwear. Both of the evidences reveal that the Taka mas costume was worn in a milder climate such as in the Baek-Je area. Third, the plump beauty of Takamas women’s visage differs from the hard, flat face of Kogooryeo women’s. The portrait of the prince Shotoku (聖德太子)painted by the prince Azua (阿佐太子) from Baek-Je resembles the men’s features in Takamas. From this, the tomb painter of Takamas is believed to have come from the Baek-Je Fourth, the frill under the skirt, the skirt with stripes of many colors and especially the soft and curvilinear silhouette of the Takamas costume (unlike the straight line expression of Kogooryeo costume) is similar to Chin (晋) style. It was the Baek-Je among the countries in ancient Korea that had close cultural exchanges with the Southern Dynasty (南朝) at that time. The close similarity between the style of Takamas costume and that of Chin implies that Baek-Je probably adopted the fashion of the Chin period. The four reasons mentioned above indicate that the Takamas costume was influenced strongly by the Baek-Je fashion.
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