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라수임 복식문화학회 1998 服飾文化硏究 Vol.6 No.2
In the study, conceiving that signifying processes like model, setting, advertisement and description are important to promote the purchase of clothes that would satisfy consumer's desire by their expressing mode, I considered the processes of components of which fashion ads consist. As for the methods to study, I regarded the results presented from prior researches of clothing & textiles and other disciplines for the components of fashion ads and objectified their image that may be interpreted subjectively: and then, I adopted to analyse them using advertisement-semiological method to make clear the signifying processes. The results are as follow: 1. Fashion ad, one of visual symbols to transfer brand image, conveys the image with which various components are combined like model, clothes, setting and description as signs. ① the image of clothes amy be differently expressed according to social, cultural norm and individual characteristics, in the case of clothes, therefore, the signified can be regarded as the transferred image by design of the clothes① sign, and the abstract conception which may be rise to mind by the image in a ceratin culture. ② Each signifier such as countenance, line of vision, attitude and hairstyle of a model conveys different image, or the signified, respectively, and it amy operate as a sign that can express the brand image symbolically. ③ The signifiers like background, color and property symbolize the advertised merchandise of clothes and define it attribute.. 2. In the case of fashion ads, key referent systems are fashion phenomena, contemporary role image, social psychology, common morality, and social, economical and milieu.
韓明淑,羅秀任 복식문화학회 1997 服飾文化硏究 Vol.5 No.4
In this thesis which takes fashion advertising that functions a marketing communication as an objective, I try to bear witness to the signifying system of garments though analyzing with semiotic methodology the signifying procedure on the base of the structural concept of Ferdinand de Saussure and the advertisement semiotic theory of Roland Barthes, to make clear their signifying structure and it meaning by understanding the characteristlcs of contemporary society and its cognitive system. Each sign of fashion advertising transfers the brand image through syntagmatic signification which contains the mythology of goods. Mannish style is encoded as tailored jacket, white shirt, H-silhouette and pants,. non-color or being color, and it is presented as a clothing sign of casual wear for career women. Feminine style is encoded as X-silhouette, soutien collar suit style, various colors. and other details with womanly image, and it is presented as a clothing sign for maid or young wife 20's or 30's. Formal style is encoded as jacket, vest, idler wear(blouse) , two and three piece dress by pants or skirt and one-piece dress, and it is used in every age and class. Casual style is similar to formal style, but differs only in textile code. Clothing sign for housewives in middle age is encoded as H-sil-houette of formal style, long jacket and pants and brown, being and grey colors. Contemporary popular phenomena in the signification of fashion advertising, and its temporal ideology reflected are as follows ; According to the context of fashion advertising in the middle of 1990's, its fashion is that first, military look applied from the designs of various start of military uniform and vest look and pant style applied from dandy-style imitated from man's wear are popular. This mean that it reflects the change of point of view on woman's role in society today. That is, due to the equality between man and woman, it mirrors the ideology of feminism, and then, describes beautifully professional woman with carrier. Second, because that individualism is underlied for the change of consumer's consciousness, standardized popularity is disappeared, and in accordance with the mixture of various trends and personalities proposed every season, layered look that emphasizes individualism easiness and naturalness is popular.