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재킷용 면직물의 심지부착에 의한 역학적 특성 및 태 변화
김명옥,박명자,Kim, Myoung-Ok,Park, Myung-Ja 한국섬유공학회 2013 한국섬유공학회지 Vol.50 No.6
This study aims to objectively evaluate cotton fabrics by varying the denier of fusible interlining. The author collected four types of cotton fabric (sateen, duck, twill, and corduroy) and three types of interlinings (10D, 20D, and 30D). Then they tested six mechanical properties and hand for sixteen specimens. Sateen was the representative cotton fabric used for this evaluation. The mechanical properties of sateen are as follows: mechanical properties of the fusible interlining fabrics increase as B, 2HB, and G as the denier increases in the interlining, which implies that garment stability increases. Furthermore, MIU, LC, and SMD increased slightly after fusing the interlining. The results of a sensibility evaluation of the sixteen specimens are as follows: Koshi increased after fusing the interlining, but Numeri and Fukurami decreased. The total fabric hand value decreased after fusing the interlining, but the interlining denier increased in ascending order of 10D, 20D, and 30D.
30대 남성복 슬림 핏 재킷의 버튼 수에 따른 재킷원형 개발 제1보 - 여유분을 중심으로 -
김명옥 ( Myoung Ok Kim ),김경아 ( Kyung A Kim ) 복식문화학회 2015 服飾文化硏究 Vol.23 No.5
This study aims to suggest the proper ease for slim-fit jackets according to the number of buttons from a one-button jacket to four-button jackets for men in their 30’s. The researchers carried out both an appearance evaluation and movement functionality evaluation. The results are as follows: When conducting the appearance evaluations, meaningful differences were found. The one-button jacket showed high scores for the 7.5 cm ease. The two-button jacket and the three-button jacket showed high scores for the 10.5 cm ease. The four-button jacket showed a high score for the 13.5 cm ease. Next, the results of the movement functionality evaluation showed the same trend; as the ease was increased from 7.5 cm to 13.5 cm, the scores increased. This is because if the garments offer more ease, this gives room for actions. Additionally, it showed that if there were fewer jacket buttons, then the results showed a high score. The researchers believe that if the number of jacket buttons is lower, then the area of the V-zone increases, so that there is more room for movement. The study suggests a proper chest ease of 7.5 cm for the one-button jacket, 10.5 cm for the two-button jacket and three-button jacket, and 13.5 cm for the four-button jacket, respectively.
브랜드 존과 버튼수에 따른 남성복 슬림 핏 재킷의 사이즈와 재킷의 스타일에 따른 패턴설계방법 실태조사
김명옥 ( Myoung Ok Kim ),( In Joo Kim ),서미아 ( Mi A Suh ) 복식문화학회 2012 服飾文化硏究 Vol.20 No.2
The purpose of this study is twofold: it suggests appropriate sizes in menswear slim-fit jackets according to brand zones and number of buttons, as well as jacket pattemmaking methods according to jacket styles by surveying and comparing the overall present status of pattemmaking and production for both men`s slim-fit and classic-fit jackets. The researcher conducted interviews with patternmakers of sixteen brands with prepared questionnaires. Data were analyzed by descriptive statistics using SPSS 12.0. The results of this study are as follows: first, for the production ratios of jacket style, the jacket styles` respective proportions differ distinctly according to brand zone. Second, for a jacket with the same number of buttons according to brand zone, the size in character-casual brand zone (character casual can be defined as high quality brands producing designer style clothes) is slightly bigger than the men`s formal suit. As the number of buttons increases, there are increases in the chest, waist and hip circumference; on the other hand, the front neck width and the distance from the shoulder neck point to the bottom of the lapel both decrease. Furthermore, the amount of wearing ease in the chest, waist, upper arm circumference, and sleeve curve is less in slim-fit jacket styles than in classic-fit jacket styles. Fusible interfacing alone is used in slim-fit jackets, while sew-in interfacing is used in combination with fusible interfacing in classic-fit jackets. This research concludes that when slim-fit men`s jackets are manufactured, appropriate pattemmaking and manufacturing methods should be considered.
김명옥(Myoung-Ok Kim),어미경(Mi-Kyung Uh),박명자(Myung-Ja Park) 한국생활환경학회 2009 한국생활환경학회지 Vol.16 No.2
This study collected 4 kinds denims varied the processing and type, and then carried out 6 kinds of mechanical properties and fabric hand for 16 samples, different in washing-finished methods(bio, bio-stone, bio-stone- bleach), by using KES-FB system. The aim was to offer the objective sensibility of the washing-finished denims and the data for the clothing production in high-value added product. Mechanical properties of the non-stretch denim fabrics were high in LT, RT and G. The stretch denim fabrics were high in WT. Following the washing finishing, LC, WC, MIU increased as a whole. The bending characteristics and the shear characteristics reduced. As a result of the value in sensibility evaluation, the value in KOSHI was high in non-stretch denim fabrics but it reduced as a whole by following the washing finishing. The value in NUMERI was higher in the generally-finished material than the MR-finished material. Except the bleach washing, the value mostly increased following the washing finishing. The value in FUKURAMI was high in stretch denim fabrics and increased by the washing finishing. In the total fabric hand, the generally-finished stretch denim fabrics were the best before and after the washing finishing. Overall, the value in fabric hand was indicated to be enhanced following the washing finishing.
접촉 냉감 및 흡수 냉감을 갖는 트리아세테이트 함유 기능성 냉감 직물 개발
김명옥 ( Myoung Ok Kim ),이정순 ( Jung-soon Lee ) 한국의류학회 2018 한국의류학회지 Vol.42 No.5
This study develops triacetate-containing functional fabrics with a cool-touch and cool-absorbent. For this purpose we used composite yarns made using triacetate filament and PET High absorbance quick dry filament as well as the composite fabric woven. The fineness of the yarn and structure of fabric varied the cover factor varied. The blend ratio of triacetate was differently set. When the triacetate content was the same, the cool touch of the fabric having a large cover factor and small SMD increased. The surface became smooth and the contact area became large; in addition, both the Qmax value and the cool-touch became large. In the case of similar density, the cool-touch of the fabric having a large content of triacetate increased. The cool-absorbent of the fabric containing triacetate showed a similar level of the PET High absorbance quick dry filament fabric treated with and endothermic cooling agent. It was possible to develop a functional coolness fabric with a cool-touch and a cool-absorbent when the content of triacetate and cover factor were well combined.