전통 상복의 복제(服制) 및 종류에 관한 연구

김장향,은영자 啓明大學校 生活科學硏究所 2006 科學論集 Vol.32 No.-

韓服과 西洋服의 面分割에 따른 配色 感情 效果에 관한 比較 硏究

咸玉相,金長香 啓明大學校 生活科學硏究所 1983 科學論集 Vol.9 No.-

A color gives out lives psychological effect that is individual and subjective. Particularly the color has mush influence on our clothing life therefore, in coloring some colors, the form, color and area of the coloring have a various psychological effect. So in this research, we relative the emotional effects of tone which are believed to have much difference according to the area-ratio between Western-clothes which have the ratio of 1 to 1 and Korea-clothes which have that of 1 to 6 and reached the following conclusion. Ⅰ. When we emphasis on the tone in coloring, we find that the difference of area-ratio has no influence on the emotional effect about the area-ratio in Korean-clothes and Western-clothes. Ⅱ. In the most harmonious coloring, to coloring of distriction of each tone in Korea-clothes and Western-clothes. Ⅲ. In the coloring of W(9.5)/BK(1.0), Western-clothes seem to be more harmonious, and have the feeling `stability'. Ⅳ. In the coloring of tone distriction of the very same value that of the identity tone appeared to be the most harmonious, secondly that of similar tone to be medial harmonious and that of contrasted tone is difficult to have well-colored beauty. Ⅴ. In case of the identical colors in the coloring distriction of each tone, we can have well-matched coloring effect if we do the coloring the tone of high value and that of low chroma in coloring identical tone and similar tone.

女大生들의 生活韓服 實用化를 위한 디자인 研究

김장향(Jang-Hyang Kim) 한국의상디자인학회 2000 한국의상디자인학회지 Vol.2 No.2

陰陽·五行과 관련한 五正色의 의미에 관한 연구

은영자,김장향 啓明大學校 生活科學硏究所 1997 科學論集 Vol.23 No.-

AbstractA study of the meaning of the five regular colours(五正色) origined from yin-yang and wu-hsing (陰陽五行). Today's some Indurstries try to foster the growth of themselves by rediscovering the traditionional beauties. Without exception, the Korean costume culture is much concerning about the traditional colour and style.Korean costume culture has been infleunced by the one of China. Originally, the costume of China is based on the five regular colours stemed from the thought of yin-yang and wu-hsing systemized by the ancient ying-yang philosophers of China. Then, to investigate the meaning of the five regular colours origined from the yin-yang and wu-hsing should have an important meaning for understanding the Korean costume, I believe. As the result of investigation of this subject, I could have some conclusions about the five regular colours and the meaning of them.The black-red'blue-white'yellow, the five regular colours correspond to the north-south'east- west'center, the five directions one by one. The five regular colours, they are originating from wu-chi(無極) which is the root of yin-yang and wu-hsing. Wu-chi leans to nowhere and shots of nothing, namely it is Chung-yung(中庸). Therefore, it is amalgamated with all coloured or uncoloured matter. In Conclusion, wu-chi is 'non-colour(玄色)'which have all colours, as the origin and terminus of all colours. On the one hand, this 'non-colour' might be the mean colour, not leaning to existence or non existence anywhere. Then, the five regular colours are the mean colour, we can say.

천연섬유 생산지 견학회

박영득,김장향 한국의류산업학회 1999 한국의류산업학회지 Vol.1 No.4

여자저고리 기준참고치수 설정을 위한 참고치수 비교고찰(1)

은영자,김장향 啓明大學校 生活科學硏究所 2002 科學論集 Vol.- No.-

This research is for setting up the standard size of Reference-Size of the Korean woman's Jacket(Jeogori). The first research process is to select 5 books chosen by us(co-researcher) for teaching materials and one book used at a private institute for traditional folk korean clothes(Hanbok). And we compared with all Reference-Sizes of them all 6 volumes each other. The result is as follows : Firstly, necessary itesm of Basic-Size are Bust, Korean Woman's Jacket Length, Arm Hole, Back Length. Secondly, we concluded that among all books selected by us, the Reference-Size of teaching material book of private institute for traditional folk korean clothes(Hanbok) comes close to the standard size. Thirdly, we established the new standard-size of Reference-Size as follows : Bust 86cm, Back Length 28∼8.5cm, from the middle of back neck to wrist(Whajang) 70cm, front length of Korean Woman's Jacket 28cm, from the neck point to hem line(Gil) 25cm, sleeve length 46cm, sleeve width 24±1cm, sleeve edge width(Somaeburi) 13cm, back neck length of Korean Woman's Jacket(Godae) 16cm, upper-out-gusset(Goetsoep-sang) 2.5cm, lower-put-gusset(Goetsoep-ha) 4.7cm, upper-in-gusset(Ansoep-sang) 4.8cm, lower-in-gusset(Ansoep-ha) 5cm, width of Korean Woman's Jacket collar 4±0.5cm.

음양오행의 틀로 해석한 가미색의 비교적 의미

은영자,김장향 한국복식학회 1998 服飾 Vol.40 No.-

This thesis is a study of Kasa￣ya, robes of buddhist monk, which is having peculiarity among human clothes. I kept my attention mainly on the symbolism of the color of Kasa￣ya. To elucidate this, I chose the principle of Ta￣-chi(太極) and Yin-yang and Wu-shing(陰陽五行) as a framework of interpretation. In the first place, the original meaning of Kasa￣ya means `a name of peculiar color`. The concrete names of the color are color of persimmons juice, brown, yellow tinged with red, radish brown, non-primary color etc. The main motive to dye three robes of buddhist monk from white or primary color to the color of Kasa￣ya was to differentiate buddhist monks from heathen or laymen. Therefore, as luxurious and primary colored cloths was donated to the buddhist monks, they are necessary to discolor them. Accordingly, they established `non-primary color` as well-mate one for a ascetic. The non-primary color is called `discolored color` as a result of discoloring primary colors. The discolored color is a synonym of Kasa￣ya and the process of discoloring is necessary for making robes of buddhist monk. Secondly, discoloring means to mash five primary colors. That is to say, the process of discoloring means to return five primary colors back to `profoundity·abstruseness·obscurity, namely darkness(玄)` as the source of them, Darkness as a condition amalgamated and not appeared all materials is the source and at the same time the terminus of all colors. Therefore, color of Kasa￣ya symbolizes `profound color` as the ultimate meaning of discoloring. Thirdly, discoloring garments of buddhist monk symbolize to destroy evil passions and haughtiness arising in ascetics mind as well as means `don`t attach to the shaped materials`. Fourthly, discoloring means to return `color`, namely `all kinds of shaped material` to the inherent nature. Process of discoloring means to return to the empty. S`u￣nya. S`u￣nya essentially do not make any colors, but over and over again come into being and become extinct as becoming colors, Ru￣pa, by `one time Yin and the other time Yang`. Ru￣pa, color is a metaplasia of S`u￣nya and S`u￣nya is discoloring one of all colors. Then, discoloring means `Ru￣pa is S`u￣nya, Ru￣pa is S`u￣nya at the same time` and. Because this is another expression of `Dharma` the original meaning of Kasa￣ya symbolize `true robes`. Consequently, Kasa￣ya means `truth` and beyond time and space do not be changed and conserve the color of the first till now.

보강토지반에서 보강효과로서 강도정수의 증가

주재우(Ju Jae Woo),한성현(Han Sung Hyun),정규향(Jung Gyu Hyang),김장흥(Kim Jang Heung),박종범(Park Jong Beom) 대한토목학회 2003 대한토목학회 학술대회 Vol.2003 No.10