패션에 나타난 퓨전이미지에 관한 연구 : 속옷의 겉옷화를 중심으로 Focused on Expression of inner-wear

은영자,김후란 啓明大學校 生活科學硏究所 2003 科學論集 Vol.29 No.-

Expression of inner-wear, one of these fusion styles, was found in various pattern in fashion. Recent fashion trend shows coexistence with variety which cannot be represent by one or two themes, and introduces various images in a season. Therefore, this study was found three fusion image of expression of inner-wear pattern which has appeared since 2000 shown in ELLE and etc. This study analyzed the expression of inner-wear as fusion image in fashion. Three types have been found and the results are as follows; Putting on inner-wear as outer-wear, exposing inner-wear by opening outer-wear, and modifying form of inner-wear into outer-wear. 1. The form of putting on inner-wear as outer-wear was shown by using fabric of lace and lycra, and luxurious and vivid color. 2. The form of exposing inner-wear by opening outer-wear was found in see-through look by using lace as main-fabric. 3. Modifying the form of inner-wear into outer-wear was appeared in various looks including ballerina look, party look, ready-made clothes brand, vintage look, retro style, mix & match look, and romantic look.

古代 Rome人의 服飾에 關한 硏究

殷英子 啓明大學校 生活科學硏究所 1979 科學論集 Vol.5 No.-

In ancient Rome, power and wealth were highly esteemed, and individual's social position really counted. This value was reflected in costume: costume itself bore social importance, and the costume style of the ruling class evoked envy and ambition from the general public. Dignity, dynamic vitality, and sense of texture characteristic about Roman costume derived more from the influence of the distinctive social institution rather than the geographic, and historical environment. All of the social custom concerning costume strictly demanded artistic taste in its style. Romans were in pursuit of variations, varieties, and magnificience. Historically, Roman costumes remained unchanged in its traditional and fundamental pattern except for minor alterations as time passed by. However. different styles in men's wear, greatly affected by social influence, represented their different social classes of positions. On the other hand, women's wear had room for more or less freedom. Since men were in dominating influence over women, the essence of women's wear was only to maintain graceful beauty, dignity, and fascination. But the general public was involved in constant labour, which required handy wear suitable for daily work. Clerical robe showed not much difference with the wear of the general public, but some difference existed in terms of the usage and the costume style. Armour or soldiers' were brilliant, and magnificent, which reflected some influence from Germany or Galilee. All this survey sums up a conclusion that in those days no professional dressmakers or tailors existed and the costume was nothing more than a picee of cloth, the rudimentary stage toward modern dressing. Roman costume provided the main motive for reviving classical traits even after the later renaissance or the French revolution.

朝鮮王朝 婦女子의 裝身具에 關한 硏究

殷英子 啓明大學校 生活科學硏究所 1976 科學論集 Vol.3 No.-

The women in Lee-Dynasty wore various ornaments for making themselves looking better and more elegant. There were many kinds of hair-do using phony hair; various head ornaments such as large or small Binyo, Dueggogi, Cheopgi, Teoljam, Danggi, and hats. There were also ear-ornaments and rings not so beautiful as those of the old Three-Kingdom Dynasty. In addition there were Norigae and Jumeoni which the women carried with them as both ornaments and practical use, buttons used instead of Otgorum. The shape and system of these ornaments represent an aspect of their lives at that time when they were socially suppresed by the class consciousness, man-and-women relation and antibuddism-pro-confucianism, policy with the passing of time, the clothing itself became westernized and our peculiar ornaments are dying away. But the Binyo sticked in the women's head of elegant Korean dress and the Norigae hung down between the Gorum of Chogori should be treasured as cultural and traditional works.

三國時代의 裝身具에 關한 硏究

殷英子 啓明大學校 生活科學硏究所 1973 科學論集 Vol.1 No.-

From the time immemorial through the ages of stone and iron, our Korean people had developed their personal ornaments with an aesthetic consciousness. Before the age of Three Kingdoms, they had used various personal ornaments such as earing, buckle with turgoise ornaments, and goggal. It has been known that their ornaments had carried the following characteristics since the beginning of Three Kingdoms: 1. The figures in the mural painting of the old tombs show that Jeolpoong and Sogol were used as hat in Koguryo Kingdom, and the simple types of the ear pendants were produced with the development of metallurgy. 2. With its brilliant pure gold crown, Silla had the broad or slender pendants elaborated with the heart or kingo leaves pettern of gold rings which their metallurgy technique had developed, including jade necklaces, gold, silver, or bronze bracelets and finger rings, girdle and seventeen pendants in the King's tomb, and gold-bronze shoes, These elaborated works of art were the most characteristic in the art of antiquites. 3. Pekche's common patterns of the personal ornaments in the desing of ever-green leaf and flame could be seen with hundreds of relics such as gold diadem ornaments, gold earings with long pendants, and gold ornameetal hairpin which were excavavated from the King Muryong tomb, In addition, since the import of Buddhism, the Buddha statue's ornaments were the development of their metallurgy. As discussed previously, Koguryo exerted its influence on Silla and peckche in the art of personal ornaments, shaping the stable and simple form of personal ornaments. Under the influences of Koguryo and Peckche, Silla achieved a perfect beauty in its brilliant and delicate works of art on the conservative and emotional basis, so that Silla brought and emotional basis, so that Silla brought a gold age to Korean art. With the great influence of Silla, Peckche developed a soft and tenacious culture of fine art.

開化期 日本의 服飾變遷에 關한 考察

殷英子 啓明大學校 生活科學硏究所 1981 科學論集 Vol.7 No.-

From olden times Japan has been under the influence of Chinese culture, but in the Englightment age she came to wear the Western dress. Japanese civilization began at the end of Dokugawa Vakuhoo which held fast to isolationism and spread with the advent of Maji. Western dress was gradually worn by both men and women and used together with traditional Japanese clothes. In particular men's suit came to assume social nature while women's dress was imitated no more and reformed. The characteristics of that period are as follows: 1. Western clothes was introduced and worn by upper class. 2. Men began to wear western clothes as a court dress and has undergone remarkable changes. 3. Schools were the first one that recognized the convenience of the western clothes. 4. Women's dress was imitated but emphasis was placed on the improvement of traditional dress. 5. Hats were come into wide use often the enforcement of the order of Bobbed Hair. Japanese dress begun to be worn in the Enlightenment Age made possible a transition of her traditional clothes into the western dress and a dual structure of traditional and western dress.

매일신문에 나타난 복식현상에 관한 연구(Ⅱ) : 피복관리 및 위생에 관한 변천을 중심으로

은영자 계명대학교 생활과학연구소 2001 科學論集 Vol.27 No.-

This study presents the changing aspects in management and hygiene of clothing in 「Maeil Shinmun」 from Jan. 1. 1946 to Dec. 31. 2000, and the results are as follows. In the period of 1946∼1959, chemical fiber, which just came into the market as a new material, brought a huge change to people's clothing life, saving them the time and efforts spent for it. From 1960 to 1969, common sense such as how to wash, keep, and dry - clean clothes according to each fabric was mainly dealt with in the articles, and how to remove stains was also often found in them. In 1970~1979, topics of how to keep clothes well and how to remove stains, the same topics found in articles in 1960s, continued, and newly appeared the articles about how to wash and keep clothes, how to use and handle an iron, and how to take care of and keep shoes well. During the time of 1980 to 1989, as clothes made by fur, chamois leather, wool, and leather became common, articles of how to keep well the clothes made from these natural fabrics increased, and washing tools and shops like a washing machine, a laundry, and computer dry - cleaning came into being, this change causing its side effects. During the time of 1990 to 2000, as the quality of clothes became finer, articles dealt mainly with the cases of laundry accidents, their causes and countermeasures for them. Especially in 2000, they were presenting websites that provide useful ideas for everyday life and information about clothes in general.

伽倻地域의 耳飾에 關한 硏究

殷英子 啓明大學校 生活科學硏究所 1990 科學論集 Vol.16 No.-

Earrings are one of the personal ornaments which have usually been worn since a long time ago. In many of the ancient eastern countries, earring were dearly legarded as a kind of talsiman, Among many tribes of the Eastern Siberia, earrings were thought to be shamanic. In Korea, earrings were first in fashion in the days of the Three Hans States and there came many excavations from old tombs of Three Ancient Kingdoms. From many old tombs of Gaya in the same period as Three Ancient Kingdoms there were excavated many kinds of personal ornaments, of which earrings were most part. I examined the earrings of Gaya Area by area and period and classified them in terms of shape. An earring is made up of the central ring attached to ear and ornaments in the lower part. There are two types of central rings-a thick and a fine ring. Ornaments in the lower have two parts-pendants and junction. These earring are made of gold, silver and copper. It is gold earrings which have remained most. By the thickness and shape of rings, the earrings are classified into two-fine rings(Ⅰ) and thick rings(Ⅱ). The pendants in the lower are classified in to A, B, C···H by the shape, and the junction ornaments into a, b, c...f by the shape. Through fine rings without pendants which were most excavated, we can see the simplicity of Gaya people. Fine rings with pendants are relatively simple and have one to three gold grains, which is a characteristic element in Gaya Area. Thick rings were a little excavated from only a few tombs and their pendants are also simple. Thus the earrings of Gaya developed from fine rings without pendants, and with pendants into thick rings and we can see that these three types were existent together in a good time.

十字軍 遠征時 西歐의 服飾에 關한 考察

殷英子 啓明大學校 生活科學硏究所 1982 科學論集 Vol.8 No.-

At the end of 12th century, a new way of living loomed out of the darkness of Middle Age in Europe and much change in both materialistic and spiritual aspects was shown. It was among others affected by the crusades. The crusades movement, started in 1095 and ended in 1270, was joined by all of the Christian peoples in Europe and their spirittual life was enhanced by the mysticism and religious principles. At that time they wore longer and wider clothes of diverse style. It was characteristic of oriental clothes and they were brought to Europe by the crusades. The crusades had an opportunity to acquire the different culture and custom of the East. They brought with them the beautiful and rare clothes and material for clothes which were presented them or which they captured. They even learned the skill of sewing. Thus the style of traditional European clothes was changed. The effect was, for example, seen in the length of Bliaud, the use of sash; in the use of Amigaut in surcoat; in the general use of cyclas; in the completion of Hauberk; in the use of veil in addition, the coat of arms and shoes named Babuche were of oriental origin; woolen textile, silk fabrics, mixed spinning, furs were imported from the orient. In the meantime, the crusades expedition deeply influenced the development of soldiers clothes and they began to wear tightly. This motivated the three dimensional clothes and brought about the transition form Romanesque symbolism to idealism of Renaissance.

李朝時代의 男子의 裝身具에 關한 硏究

殷英子 啓明大學校 生活科學硏究所 1975 科學論集 Vol.2 No.-

Married men during the Lee Dynasty generally wore various kinds of hats including Kwan as a part of proper ornaments to show their personal dignity and social status. Different types of belts and Hyungbae were worn according to the social code on Proper ornaments, for the public and the official regulations on the uniforms for those in public service. Footwear also varied from straw shoes to Katsin. As far as headgear is concerned, a Kwan is worn for a formal ornaments by a king, a member of ruling class(Sa dae boo) and a Confucian. On the other hand a mo was exclusively worn by the government officials, while a lpja was worn for a formal occasion as well as an informal one. In addition to the above headgear the upper class men wore a Sang-too-Kwan after they trimmed their hair using Dong Kot, a traditional Korean men's hair fixer mostly made of silver. Since Korean hyungbaes originally come from the Chinese court ornaments to show the wearer's official rank, they are very similar to their Chinese counterparts in pattern and shape. Belts called Kakti are richly decorated in the similar fashion to those in the Three Kingdom peirod. Shoes are Primarily made of leather, but those made of wood, hemp and cloth were also frequently worn during the Lee dynasty. The color and Pattern of these men's headgear, footwear and other men's accessories were closely relased with the spiritual heritage of the korean people. The texture of material, the degree of excellence of seamtress, the type of decoration contributed to maintaining social order by indication the wearer's social status and official rank. Seveial decades after Korea was exposed to the West, the western garments almost completely replaced the traditional Korean men's wear ranging from shoes to hats. The traditional handmade garments could not compete with their mass prodced western covnterparts. Consequently these days it is very difficult to find a Korean man in the traditional clothes except the old men in remote villages.

우리 나라 혼례복의 변천에 관한 연구 : 개화기 이후를 중심으로

은영자 계명대학교 생활과학연구소 2000 科學論集 Vol.26 No.-

Wedding costumes are clothing for the bride and groom in a wedding ceremony, and have changed variously in shapes and types according to the times. Also as for wedding cerermonies, there are records of monogamy, marriage by deals and bride-sided marriages (a son-in-law taken into the family), and in Chosun Dynasty via Koryo, traditional marriages based on Confucianism were practiced and such happening lasted till the political Reform in 1894. Furthermore, as the full-scaled Western wedding dresses were worn from the late 1950s, it has changed variously with the advancement of western clothing. Western type of wedding dresses have begun to be favored in the midst of these changes, and traditional wedding clothing seem to maintain its existence by being worn on time of gift ceremonies, but the detailed style has been altered a great deal. Therefore, our wedding costumes, after the civilization period when western culture was introduces and caused many changes in Politics, Economy, Society, etc., were traditional Korean costumes (white Chima Chogori) as the main stream for the first 30years, but later on, as the study shows, general western wedding dresses were worn continuously. For men, Korean traditional wedding costumes such as Samo and Danlyung, Baji (Korean traditional pants), Chogori (Korean traditional jackets) and Durumagi (Korean traditional coats) are being replaced by Western Morning Coats and Western formal costumes. Hence, we should not only develop designs so that our traditional wedding costumes can be stood out in our modem lifestyle beyond the trend of changes, but also value Korean wedding costumes as our own unique clothing culture.