이영희의 패션디자인에 대한 도상해석학적 분석

이예영(Yhe Young Lee) 한국디자인문화학회 2011 한국디자인문화학회지 Vol.17 No.4

본 연구에서는 이영희 디자이너의 뉴욕 컬렉션을 Panofsky의 조형예술 분석의 틀을 적용해 분석해 봄으로써, 체계적인 패션디자인 분석의 사례를 제공함은 물론, 이영희의 한국적 디자인에 나타난 물리적, 정신적 특성을 살펴보고자 하였다. 이러한 연구 목적을 달성하기 위하여 이영희의 2005 S/S, 2006 F/W, 2007, 2008 F/W 뉴욕 컬렉션 작품을 분석하였다. 작품 분석을 위해서 이영희 디자이너의 홈페이지에 실린 해당 컬렉션사진 60점에 실린 63 착창의 다자인을 패션디자인의 요소인 선과 형, 색채, 재질을 위주로 살펴보았다. Panofsky의 조형예술 분석의 틀을 활용해 현상 의미, 주제 의미(도상학적 접근), 증언 의미(도상해적학적 접근) 분석의 과정을 거친 결과, A-실루엣, 여성한복의 상하 비율, 평면적이고 열린 구성, 소재의 중첩이나 여러 겹 의상의 착장 방식, 한복 속옷의 겉옷화, 노리개나 매듭의 소품화, 한국적 문양, 엷거나 어두운 색채의 주된 사용, 원색이나 밝은 색상을 이용한 바인딩과 안감 처리, 한지, 오간자, 사틴과 같이 비치거나 광택이 나는 소재의 주된 사용, 자수, 패딩, 누빔 기법 등 한복과 관련된 한국적 특성이 확인되었다. 이와 함께, 프린세스 라인, 루싱, 턱, 세트인 슬리브 등의 서구적 특성을 바탕으로 서양 의복의 특성 또한 도출하였다. 한국적 스타일과 서양적인 스타일의 조합은 한국적 디자인의 실용성을 보완하고 서양인들에게 보다 친숙한 모습으로 다가가 한국의 철학과 문화를 알리고자 하는 이영희 디자이너의 의지를 보여주었다. 이렇게 도출한 이영희의 한국적 스타일은 초공간적 열린 미, 정적인 미와 동적인 미, 여백의 미, 상징의미를 표현하였고, 정신적 측면에서는 도교의 우주생성설, 기의 순환, 음과 양의 조화, 신토불이사상, 천인합일사상, 자연과의 소통과 조화, 슬픔과 환희가 공존하는 우리 고유의 정서, 화를 막고 복을 비는 조상들의 염원을 담고 있었다. The purpose of this study was to analyze Lee Young Hee`s Korean style of fashion designs introduced in her New York collections, not only to provide an example of logical fashion design analysis process, but also to examine the physical and philosophical features of her designs. In order to conduct the research, the photographs of Lee Young Hee`s New York collections, including `05 S/S, `06 F/W, `07, `08 F/W fashion shows, uploaded in her homepage were analyzed. A total of 63 ensembles from 60 photographs were used for the research. The analysis was done in the following order: Phenomenal analysis, thematic(iconographical) interpretation, and testimonial (iconological) interpretation. As a result, phenomenal features including A-silhouette, the proportion of women`s Hanbok, 2-dimensional and open structure, overlap of fabrics and clothing items, Hanbok underwear designed as outerwear, Korean traditional accessories including Norigae and braids, Korean traditional motifs, dominance of light and dark colors, bright colors used in bindings and linings, shiny and transparent fabrics, Korean embroidery, padding, and quilting could be found in her Korean style of designs. In addition, Western style also could be located from the features such as princess line, ruching, tucks, and set-in sleeves. The coexistence of Korean and Western styles in Lee Young Hee`s designs represented her will to popularize Korean style of designs by supplementing practicality and reflecting Western taste. Lee Young Hee`s Korean style of designs expressed the aesthetics of hyperspace & openness, stillness & movement, space, and symbols. These aesthetics represented the philosophical beliefs of Koreans related to the following concepts: Cosmogony of Taoism, circulation of spirit, harmony of yin & yang, unity of God and man, communication & harmony with nature, coexistence of sadness & happiness in Korean emotion, and longing for happiness.

Oral history study on Japanese menswear custom-tailoring culture

Yhe-Young Lee,Yung-Hyun Yoo 복식문화학회 2020 服飾文化硏究 Vol.28 No.2

This oral history study explores the past and present Japanese menswear customtailoring culture. Two master tailors with more than 50 years of experience and two young tailors with less than a year of experience were interviewed about the tailor training process and environment, working conditions, thinking and behavior, and societal and governmental efforts for vitalizing custom-tailoring. The results indicate, first, a 10-year apprenticeship was required in the past, whereas young tailors today must register for three-year professional tailoring classes. Tailors then and now have been trained in a similar sequence of pants, vests, and jackets. Second, regarding working conditions, tailors had to provide gratitude services to their masters for a few years, even after their training ended. In contrast, young tailors today must continue a probationary period after their three-year schooling; however, they experience difficulty with finding tailoring shops for their probation. Third, in terms of thinking and behavior, master tailors learned their trade to earn a living, whereas young tailors today entered the field due to their interests in it. In addition, young tailors want a systematic learning process, whereas master tailors learned their skills while on the job. Last, tailoring academies today are run by tailoring shops and societies. Career exploration programs are offered to elementary and middle school students by the Kobe government in association with the local tailoring society to provide tailoring experiences.

Analyses of Surrealism-Inspired Fashion Designs by Applying the SCAMPER Creativity Tools

Yhe-Young Lee 한국복식학회 2019 International journal of costume and fashion Vol.19 No.2

The purpose of this study is to utilize SCAMPER creativity tools to analyze surrealism-inspired fashion designs and to evaluate the creative value of surrealist fashion while providing a systematic source for creative design ideation. Thirty-two surrealism-inspired collections, introduced from 2000 S/S to 2016 F/W and highlighted by articles in Vogue and Elle, were analyzed by applying the sub-questions of SCAMPER. The results demonstrate that surrealism-inspired fashion designs are valuable for creative design ideation because all 10 SCAMPER components—Substitute, Combine, Adapt, Modify, Magnify, Minify, Put to other use, Eliminate, Rearrange and Reverse—are utilized in the analyzed designs. Specifically, the following expression techniques are found: 3-D substitution of 2-D and vice versa; combination of two items as well as 2-D and 3-D; adaptation of surrealist artists’ works, techniques for the decoration, and morphologically similar objects; size and morphological modification of items, objects, and decorations; items and objects put to other use; partial elimination of garments including leaving holes and cuts in garments; and rearranging of garment parts including reversal of front/back and inside/outside. In the future, more surrealism-inspired collections should be analyzed to accumulate a greater variety of creative design examples.

American Women`s Adoption of Pants and the Changing Definition of Femininity during World War 2

( Yhe Young Lee ),( Jane Farrell Beck ) 대한가정학회 2010 International Journal of Human Ecology Vol.11 No.1

Articles from The New York Times and magazines including Consumer Digest, Journal of Home Economics, Scholastic, Time and Woman`s Home Companion were analyzed in this study and focused on the following research questions: How did the social situation influence American women`s adoption of pants during World War II? How were the social opinions of women`s adoption of pants? How did American women`s adoption of pants and the social opinions on women`s pants represent the process of change in the definition of femininity during World War II? Women were encouraged to wear pants in work places because many women had to work in defense industries and farms. Women had to wear pants during the winter to keep warm in order to conserve oil, rubber, and other materials. In addition, wearing men`s clothes became a fashion trend among college women during this period. However, practicality was often not the primary thing alone to consider in women`s fashion. Femininity was still important in women`s fashion. There were criticisms over the women`s adoption of pants. Regulations against pants were imposed on women, while there were women who wanted to dress like ladies even at defense industries. An abrupt change in women`s gender roles and the increased adoption of trousers aroused social ambivalence about the traditional definition of femininity. Even though many women returned to their homes after the war, the social demand of practicality in women`s day-time clothes during the war offered women the experience of comfort and practicality in pants. These experiences contributed to paving the way for more women to abopt pants and helped establishing a new definition of femininity after the war.

American Women's Adoption of Pants and the Changing Definition of Femininity during World War II

Lee, Yhe-Young,Farrell-Beck, Jane The Korean Home Economics Association 2010 International Journal of Human Ecology Vol.11 No.1

Articles from The New York Times and magazines including Consumer Digest, Journal of Home Economics, Scholastic, Time and Woman's Home Companion were analyzed in this study and focused on the following research questions: How did the social situation influence American women's adoption of pants during World War II? How were the social opinions of women's adoption of pants? How did American women's adoption of pants and the social opinions on women's pants represent the process of change in the definition of femininity during World War II? Women were encouraged to wear pants in work places because many women had to work in defense industries and farms. Women had to wear pants during the winter to keep warm in order to conserve oil, rubber, and other materials. In addition, wearing men's clothes became a fashion trend among college women during this period. However, practicality was often not the primary thing alone to consider in women's fashion. Femininity was still important in women's fashion. There were criticisms over the women's adoption of pants. Regulations against pants were imposed on women, while there were women who wanted to dress like ladies even at defense industries. An abrupt change in women's gender roles and the increased adoption of trousers aroused social ambivalence about the traditional definition of femininity. Even though many women returned to their homes after the war, the social demand of practicality in women's day-time clothes during the war offered women the experience of comfort and practicality in pants. These experiences contributed to paving the way for more women to adopt pants and helped establishing a new definition of femininity after the war.

Comparison Between South and North Korean Terms, Related to Clothing and Textiles

Lee, Hana,Choi, Jin O,Lee, Yoon-Jung,Lee, Yhe-Young The Korean Society of Costume 2015 International journal of costume and fashion Vol.15 No.2

The purpose of this study was to examine the differences in terminologies used in South and North Korea, to describe objects or activities related to clothing and textiles, as a part of a bigger project that aims at developing an educational program in provision of reunification of the Koreas. In this study, a total of 176 North Korean terms that differ from South Korean terms were collected from various sources, including dictionaries that are developed to compare South-North Korean languages as well as texts such as magazines and news articles, about North Korean daily life. The terms were classified into sub-categories: materials for clothing, clothing management, construction and design, garment names, body parts, description of physical appearance or state of hygiene, and apparel industry. Many of the North Korean terms were derived from native expressions, rather than adopting foreign terms or terms in Chinese characters. Some North Korean terms did not have any corresponding words in South Korean terms or vice versa. We expect the terminology list to become a useful educational resource in establishing a clothing and textiles curriculum in preparation of reunification, by allowing the students to familiarize with the differences in the usage of terms.

Transactions : Women`s Body Exposure in Leisure Wear during the 1930s-Focused on Bathing Suits, Shorts, and Halters-

( Yhe Young Lee ),( Farrell Beck Jane ) 한국의류학회 2012 한국의류학회지 Vol.36 No.6

Social reactions to body exposure in American leisure wear (bathing suits, shorts, and halters) in the 1930s were analyzed to provide an understanding of the process of adopting more abbreviated and less-occasion specific styles of garments in women`s fashion. The research questions were as follow: How did women expose their bodies in leisure wear during the 1930s? How did the social reaction to women`s body exposure in leisure wear change throughout the 1930s? How did the body exposure in women`s leisure wear play a significant role in the history of women`s fashion? Primary sources were collected from issues of The New York Times published in the 1930s. Topics including dress, fashion, ethics, social ethics, and sexual ethics, were reviewed in The New York Times indices. The findings were analyzed and interpreted with reference to secondary sources that included books and research papers. The results showed that the body exposure of the styles as well as the place where these styles were worn was a public issue. Women were criticized and regulated for body exposure as well as for wearing bathing suits, shorts, and halters on the streets. However, the social regulations that restricted bathing suit styles almost disappeared by the end of the decade. This represented the change of social expectations toward body exposure in the 1930s. In addition, reports of laws that forbade the wearing of bathing suits, halters, and shorts outside of beaches, pools, and parks indicated women`s increased attempts to expose their bodies in public places. However, reactions to women`s body exposure in leisure wear changed to accept more flexibility in the social customs throughout the decade. These phenomena were a partial step toward the popularization of less occasion-specific styles ? sportswear ? that took place in the 20th century.

비키니 수영복에 관한 연구

이예영(Yhe Young Lee) 한국복식학회 2006 服飾 Vol.56 No.7s

스포티 패션디자인에 관한 연구

이예영(Yhe Young Lee) 한국디자인문화학회 2014 한국디자인문화학회지 Vol.20 No.1

본 연구에서는 패션 컬렉션 중에서 운동복의 요소가 가미된 스포티(Sporty) 패션을 분석하여 디자이너들과 학생들의 패션디자인 발상에 참고할 수 있는 체계적 자료를 마련하고자 하였다. 연구 범위는 미국 스타일닷컴(www.style.com) 사이트에 수록된 2010년부터 2014년 사이의 뉴욕, 런던, 파리, 밀라노 패션 컬렉션들로 한정하였다. 매해 발표된 리조트(Resort), 봄, 프리폴(Pre-fall), 가을 컬렉션을 포함시키되 2014년프리폴과 가을 컬렉션은 발표가 마무리되지 않았으므로 모두 제외시켰다. 미국 스타일 닷컴 사이트에서 Sporty Collection과 Athletic Collection을 키워드로 검색하여 스포티 패션과 관련된 컬렉션을 선별한 결과 총 132개의 컬렉션이 선정되었다. 선정된 컬렉션의 비평과 디자인 사진을 중심으로 스포티 패션디자인 요소들을 추출하였다. 분석 결과 스포티 패션디자인에 활용된 요소는 의복과 액세서리를 포함한 품목, 세부장식, 소재로 분류하였다. 의복 품목 중에는 다양한 스타일의 운동용 코트와 재킷, 상의, 바지, 치마와 원피스 드레스, 상하의가 연결된 수트, 브라가 포함되었고, 액세서리 품목으로는 머리쓰개, 신발, 양말, 벨트, 가방이 스포티 패션 디자인의 영감으로 활용되었다. 또, 세부장식으로는 지퍼, 스냅 단추, 고무단, 드로스트링,(Draw-string) 장식선, 컬러블러킹(Color-blocking), 줄무늬(Rugby Stripes), 기능적인 주머니, 라글란 소매, 숫자 모티프, 끈장식(Lacing) 등이 스포티 패션을 연출하기 위해 이용되었다. 소재는 하이테크 소재, 경량 소재, 방수소재, 기능성 소재가 많이 사용되었는데, 특히 해양스포츠에 사용되는 네오프렌(Neoprene)과 저지나 농구복에 사용되는 메시(Mesh)가 자주 활용되었다. 이상의 분석 결과 스포츠웨어의 범위가 액티브웨어적 요소를 포함하면서 확대되고 있음을 알 수 있었다. 본 연구가 창의적 스포티 패션디자인 발상을 위한 자료에 보탬이 되리라 사료된다. The purpose of this study was to analyze sporty fashion designs to provide methodical inspiration sources for the fashion designers and the students who study fashion design. The scope of this research was limited to fashion collections held between 2010 and 2014 in New York, London, Paris, and Milan. Resort, spring, pre-fall, and fall collections were included, except 2014 pre-fall and fall collections which were not completed at the time of research. Sporty fashion collections were searched in American style.com site(www.style.com) using the keywords sporty collection and athletic collection. As a result, 132 collections were selected. Fashion collection reviews and design photographs were analyzed to find the sporty fashion design elements. The analyses result could be categorized into garment and accessory items, details, and fabrics. A variety of styles from subcategories including coat and jacket, top, shorts and pants, skirt and dress, one-piece suit, bra, headwear, footwear, sock, belt, and bag served as sporty fashion design inspiration sources. Zippers, snaps, ribs, draw-strings, decorative lines), color-blocking, rugby stripes, functional pockets, ragland sleeves, number motifs, lacing were utilized as sporty fashion details. Fabrics such as hightech, lightweight, water-proof, and functional materials were often mentioned in fashion collection reviews. Especially, neoprene and mesh were popular. Overall, the boundary of sportswear has expanded to comprise activewear elements. I believe the result of this research will serve as useful inspiration sources for the creative sporty fashion design idea development.

PBL과 메이커 교육을 적용한 가정과 예비교사를 위한 의류학 실습 수업 개발

이예영 ( Yhe-young Lee ) 복식문화학회 2021 服飾文化硏究 Vol.29 No.1

The aim of this research is to develop a clothing and textiles studio course for preservice home economics teachers applying principles of Project-Based Learning (PBL) and maker education to equip future teachers with the ability to nurture creativity among adolescents. The studio course was developed in the following stages: analysis, design, development, implementation, and evaluation. We concluded that the resulting course met the following objectives extracted from the 2015 revised curriculum of home economics subjects: to promote creative and environmentally-friendly fashion design and styling abilities, gain the ability to use makerspace tools, understand flat pattern making and sewing processes, and develop creative thinking, aesthetic sense, and communication skills. Furthermore, the educational effects of PBL and maker education were confirmed through student comments on the course. Students mentioned the practicality of the material in their actual lives along with their enhanced integration of the subject material, self-directedness, aesthetic sense, ability to learn through trial and error, collaboration and communication, and sharing. Based on results from the implementation and evaluation stages, a clothing and textiles studio course should include the following modules: introduction of terms and tools, submission and sharing of clothing reformation and upcycling techniques, introduction to hand sewing, pouch making, heat-transfer printing, 3D printing, mask making, hat making, vest making, and the final team project on fashion styling. It is important for instructors to provide detailed guidelines on selecting personas for styling, looking for available materials, and selecting materials online.