朝鮮朝 常服의 胸背紋樣과 그 象徵性에 관한 硏究 = (A) Study of patterns Thoraces and symbol in sangbok During the Chosun Dynasty

다국어 초록 (Multilingual Abstract)

The pursuit of beauty has applied to the appearances of the officials uniforms, and is focused on the thoraces worn in Chosun Dynasty officials uniform, for it is meaningful comparing and analyzing the formative elements building the specific formative beauty with rich colors and embroidered patches to be applied to the modern fashion design for the creation.
For the transitions and the characteristics of thoraces, the discussion was made while the King Sejong was in throne; however, the actual practice was in the 2nd year Danjong(1454) applying the principle of Two Grades Down originated from Myung Dynasty in China.
The independent designs were briefly used for grade one through nine in the 11th year Yeansan kun (1505), and in simple and convenient way the cranes were used for the thoraces of civil officials and tigers for military, with twins for high ranking and single for low since Yeoungjo and Jeongjo in the latter part of Chosun Dynasty.
It has built up the independent and specific formative beauty through the gradual transitions in patterns and colors. The patterns of dgagon, phoenix and giraffe in the embroidered patches on the breast and back of official uniform were used by the king and royal family.
The racial feeling and thoughts dwelt in the patterns of the embroidered patches on the breast and the back of official uniform any and every one of them, and they strove chiefly to show the idea of long life, great happineas and riches and honours in the patterns.
These patxhes on the breast and the back of official uniform were made by the woman's delicate and elaborate embroidery in Chosun dynasty. And these are beautiful and elegant.
The characteristics of the patterns of thoraces proved by this research work are as follow :
First, The cloud, the sun, and the long life pattern if any, are to be connected to the crane, the never-get old plant, the tiger, and Taegeuk pattern.
Second, All the patterns used have the good meanings, such as the five fortunes available while alive in this world, the descendents prospering.

목차 (Table of Contents)

• 목차 = ⅰ
• Ⅰ. 序言 = 1
• Ⅱ. 胸背制定의 歷史的 考察 = 4
• Ⅲ. 胸背樣式의 特徵 및 機能 = 12
• 1. 胸背樣式의 特徵 = 12
• 가. 文樣 = 12
• 나. 刺繡 = 18
• 다. 規格 = 22
• 라. 形態 및 製作法 = 25
• 2. 胸背의 機能 = 26
• Ⅳ. 胸背의 文樣에 反映된 象徵性 = 31
• 1. 色彩 = 31
• 2. 文樣의 種類 = 37
• 가. 動物紋樣 = 38
• 나. 植物文樣 = 46
• 다. 自然紋 = 50
• 라. 抽象紋 = 53
• 3. 文樣의 象徵性에 關聯된 傳統的 思想 = 56
• Ⅴ. 結言 = 62
• 參考文獻 = 66
• 參考圖版 = 69
• Abstract = 77