織物技術用語要約

최병희,Choe, Byong-Hee 한국잠사학회 1981 한국잠사곤충학회지 Vol.23 No.1

특별기고(特別寄稿) : 견사연구(絹絲硏究)의 종합적(綜合的) 고찰(考察)과 결론(結論)

최병희 ( Byong Hee Choe ) 한국잠사학회 1982 한국잠사곤충학회지 Vol.24 No.1

한국(韓國)에서 재배(栽培)되는 상품종별(桑品種別) 영양가치(營養價値) 분석(分析)

최병희 ( Byong Hee Choe ),남중희 ( Chung Hee Nam ) 한국잠사학회 1962 한국잠사곤충학회지 Vol.2 No.-

This treatise is to analyze the chemical components in the mulberry varieties which are cultured in Korea and to estimate the nutritive values for them. Some of these varieties were developed lately in this country just by the general breeding aspect of mulberry leaf producing and silkworm raising experimentation without analysing the nutritive values of them which may be differed by various culturing condition. This work will be helpful for the improvement of mulberry varieties and the correct judgement of them. The varieties used for the analysis are as followings; A. Morus bombycis Koridz species. 1. Ichi-Hei. 2. Shimano-Uchi B. Morus alba L. species. 3. Kairyo-Nezumigaeshi. 4. Suwon-Daeyop. 5. Suwon No. 3. 6. Suwon No. 4. 7. Yongchon-Chuwoo. C. Morus Ihou (Ser.) Koidz species. 8. Ro-Soh. The specimens were eventually taken under the air and soil dry season because of the rain shortage during the sampling period and the results are found as a rather different from the normal specimen under the normal climate. Therefore, this treatise will be an important report on a special culturing condition and the nutritive values by the mulberry varieties, and still comparable because they were grown under the same condition. The individual conclusions are; 1. Yongchon-Chuwoo which was originated in this country, was found as an important variety for this country from the aspect of mulberry nutritive value and leaf producing amount, and it is believed that this is the best suitable variety for the soil of Korea. 2. Ichi-Hei occupies the better situation as well as Yongchon-Chuwoo from the nutritive criticizing even though it was originated in Japan. 3. The lately developed Suwon No.3 and No.4 are best from the leaf producing point of view, but they are not found such a good varieties from the nutritive aspect. The result may be happened as poor because they were cut before spring sprout started. 4. Ro-Soh which was normally recognized as a poor variety, was also found as a poor nutritive and leaf producing variety. 5. The crude protein and crude fat components in the mulberry leaves decreased as the leaf maturity was progressed, but the crude fiber and crude ash components increased reversively in general view. It was also found that there were some specific changing nature by the mulberry varieties and could not rule them by just one conclusion. 6. During the air and soil dry season, the ash component increases but the hydrocarbon and moisture contents decrease considerably, and which resulted to the increase of mulberry hardness ratio and the decrease of sugar-protein ratio, eventually it causes the decrease of the nutritive value. It was also found that Ichi-Hei, Ro-Soh, and Suwon No. 3 had a strong recovering nature to their normal nutritive condition after raining. 7. Mulberry is of course a rich calorie diet, and is calculated as 50 to 60 Cal. per gram.

견직물(絹織物) Wash and Wear 가공연구(加工硏究)

최병희 ( Byong Hee Choe ),이양후 ( Yang Hoo Lee ) 한국잠사학회 1981 한국잠사곤충학회지 Vol.23 No.1

絹織物加工을 實需要者의 利用度를 增加시키기 爲해 多年間 여러 사람에 의하여 硏究되어 왔으나 天然織維이기 때문에 加工方式으로 性質을 變化시키기는 어려워서 滿足스러운 精度로 이루어지지 못하고 있는 實情에 있다. 絹織物加工은 勿論 그 缺點을 補强하는 同時에 商品的價値도 向上시키는데 目的이 있는데 때로는 有名商標가 品質以上으로 販賣를 左右하는 例도 많다. 特히 絹制品은 洗濯하기 어렵고 다리미질하기가 곤란하여 가정주부의 歡迎을 받지 못하고 있는 實情에 있다. 이러한 問題點을 解決하기 爲해 筆者는 多年間 硏究를 持績하여 왔든바 一般絹織物의 浸潤 後 乾燥時間보다 半減된 時間에 乾燥되는 所謂 Wash and Wear絹加工方法의 開發을 하기에 이르렀다. 그리고 그 加工費用이 極히 經濟性인 탓으로 아무런 부담감 없이 加工 處理할 수 있는 特徵을 갖이고 있었다. 1. 繭絲는 吐絲營繭曲線이 S字型으로 되어 있어 浸潤時에는 原狀復舊의 性質이 있어 屈曲狀態를 이룩하게 되어 本 加工絹織物이 Wash and Wear이기는 하나 가벼운 다림질이 必要하였다. 2. 이러한 加工은 絹絲蛋白質의 變性을 加工過程에서 1% D.I.S.溶液에 3時間 處理하여 變性誘發시킴으로서 可能하였다. 3. 加工絹의 防皺度, 剛乾度를 洗濯回數를 反復하면서 調査하여 본 結果 未處理絹보다 惡化되지 않았다. 4. 未加工絹도 水洗, 乾燥를 反復하게되면 스스로 變性되는 事實을 알았다. 5. 處理絹과 未處理絹의 强力伸度面의 差異가 없었다. Silk textile finishing has been studied for many years by many workers in order to meet more utilities for various endusers. Such studies, however, could not be successful because any natural fibers are hardly change their natures by artificial treating methods. Textile finishing is of course to improve the mechandise qualities and the poor natures of silk so that it may be available as the best textile fiber in the world. Sometimes, famous trade marked textile plays more power than its quality in the silk market, nevertheless, this should be over line of research activities. Meantime, the silk demand has been also transferred from ladies stocking to other clothes since nylon or other synthetic fibers were developed. That is why, the extension of silk demand should be developed by various research works. Specially, silk is known as difficult textile to handle it during washing or ironing process which happened to depress down the silk usage for house wives. In order to solve such problems, the reporter has been worked for many years and now, he believes that he has developed a proper finishing method to cover such problems. The developed finishing method may be said to eligible with economical aspect and shorten the dry duration after water washing in half against normal silk textile without harming the specific silk nature. As all of us know, silk fiber starts to denature since it was spinned by silkworm and the fiber is formed as overlapped "S" type curves during its concooning process. After it is made as raw silk or sericin silk, it shows as straight line form, but it changes in to waved form in case refining or degumming process in order return to its original spinned form. Such nature is continued during its textile form and ends with hard ironing nature than other textile fibers. Mean while, the silk fiber keeps to continue its denaturing and this is iniciated by repeat of washing and drying which takes many years to reach its final stage. The reporter has found the iniciating denature of silk by his finishing process, with out heat, decreasing the swollen nature which ended with shortening the drying duration after wash. Each washing was carried out by soaking the previously weighed sample in cold water for one hour, then pressed the sample for ten minutes to eliminate its free water component before weighing with same condition. According to this, the treated silk showed much denaturing after the finishing, but the standard silk progressed the denaturing by and by with the repeat of washing and drying, finally reached the same swollen degree of treated silk. Such treating result explains that the treated silk happened to be stebilized nature by the treating immediately. On the other hand, standard silk may reach to such condition by the time of worn out clothes after repeat of washing and drying for many years while the clothes will be no more useful. The decreased swelling nature has brought about the drying period in half against standard silk after all. Not only the tests of tenacity and elongation but also crease resistance recovery, stiffness and shrinkage tests were carried out after each washing and drying which he has found better result on the treated silk textile against the standard silk. The most important thing was to keep the textile feeling of silk by such finishing work before improve any poor nature of silk. The general silk has a nature to absorb smoke or dirt from its surrounding air and reaches to dirty color shade upon such exposure, but the treated one has improved such nature because of its artificial denaturing, another word, it keeps clean longer than the normal silk. Many previous finishing works could improve some specific nature of silk, but it happened to deprave other important natures. The reporters work is, however, specialized to improve the silk to be useful as Wash and Wear Silk without harming its standard natures. So far, this work happened to be a overall innovative finishing meth

아크린단량체중합(單量體重合)에 의한 견직물(絹織物) 방추도(防皺度) 개선(改善)에 대한 연구(硏究)

최병희 ( Byong Hee Choe ),이양후 ( Yang Hoo Lee ) 한국잠사학회 1983 한국잠사곤충학회지 Vol.25 No.2

필자의 견직물방추도개선연구에서 지금까지 보고된 것은 요소포르마린합성수지 중합법에 의한 것이었다. 그러나 견직물이 고급직물인 관계로 1970년대에 이르러 피부위생상 포르마린을 가공작업에 사용금지하기에 이르러 본인도 포르마린 불사용 원칙을 세워 연구하여 오던 중 아크릴 단량체의 중합방법에 의한 가공방법개발에 성공하였으므로 이에 보고하며 얻어진 결과는 다음과 같다. (1) 방추도가 불량한 견직물은 본 가공으로 25% 이상 개선을 보였다. (2) 폴리에스터처럼 방추도가 좋은 견직물일례로 crape de chin과 같은 박지고연견직물은 수 % 개선에 불과하였다. (3) 본 가공처리로 직물경연도는 별 변화가 없었다. (4) 본 가공처리물은 선후염을 막론하고 염색직후에 실시함을 권고한다. (5) 본 가공직물은 dry cleanning 함을 원칙으로 한다. This studies have been carried out to find anticrease finishing method other than urea formaldehyde polymerization method which the author had done it with his former report. Acrylic amide polymerization method with water solubility controlling device was developed in this paper and the obtained results are as followings. 1. Poor anticrease silk textile could improve as much as 25% than original fabric. 2. Light density with high twisted silk textiles may improve a few per cent increase of anticrease, because they held good anticrease nature as well as polyester fabric. 3. There was no significant stiffness change after such finish. 4. This finish is recommended to carry after dyeing process either yarn dye or cloth dyeing. 5. The finished textile with this method is recommended to wash with dry cleanning method.

I.S.A. 발표논문요약(發表論文要約) : 방추성(防皺性)을 겸(兼)한 견직물(絹織物) Wash and Wear 가공연구(加工硏究)

최병희 ( Byong Hee Choe ),이양후 ( Yang Hoo Lee ) 한국잠사학회 1982 한국잠사곤충학회지 Vol.24 No.1

1981년에 견직물 Wash and Wear가공 연구를 국제견업협회(I.S.A) 기술분과위원회에서 발표하였든바 의외로 지대한 관심을 보였는데, 금년초 동협회로부터 8개 종류의 견직물을 송부해와 본 연구의 재확인을 하고 싶다 하여 기왕이면 방추성도 향상시키는 실험을 해야 되겠다고 결정하고 본 연구에 착수하였다. 본 연구는 따라서 1982년 I.S.A회의에서 다시 발표하게 끔 되어 있다. 본 연구로 얻어진 결과는 다음과 같이 요약할 수 있었다. 1. 수지가공으로 방추성이 나쁜 견직물은 20%정도 향상시킬 수 있었다. 2. 수지가공과 Wash and Wear가공을 단일공정으로 해도 Wash and Wear효과가 있었다. 3. 본래 견직물이 고밀도 직으로 되었거나 고연견직일 때는 방추성이 본래 좋아서 수지가공을 해도 수% 밖에 향상되지 못하였다. 4. 견직물조직면으로 볼 때 주자직이나 능직이 평직보다 좋은 방추성을 보였다. 5. 본 연구처리는 염색물의 염색견뢰도를 향상시키는 효과도 있었다.

기술자료(技術資料) : I.S.C.에서 발표(發表)한 생사검사(生絲檢査) 격부(格付) 분석(分析) 개요(槪要)

최병희 ( Byong Hee Choe ) 한국잠사학회 1980 한국잠사곤충학회지 Vol.22 No.2

Polyethylene대(袋) 저견(貯繭)이 조사(繰絲)에 미치는 영향(影響)

최병희 ( Byong Hee Choe ),송기언 ( Ki Yon Song ) 한국잠사학회 1966 한국잠사곤충학회지 Vol.6 No.-

본보는 Polyethylene대에 저견한 고치와 면대에 저견한 것을 수개월간에 걸쳐서 조사시험한 것으로서 그 결과는 다음과 같다. 1. 살용견은 재건시까지 Polyethylen대에 저장하여 옥외에 방치할 수 있다. 2. Polyethylene대에 저견한 것은 면대저견한 것의 생계량비율보다 약 0.5% 증가되었다. 3. 본 대장으로 곰팡이 해를 방지할 수 있었다. 그러나 서해는 방지할 수 없었다. 4. 본 대장견은 면포대장견보다 수시렁이 유인이 다소 있으나 나프타린 방충제를 대대직전에 견대에 넣으므로서 방지할 수 있다. This work has been carried out for many months to check whether polyethylene bag cocoon storging method bring better reeling result against the normal cotton bag storing method. The obtained results were as followings. 1. The pupa killed cocoons could be stored on the ground in case of packing in polyethylene-bag until the secondary dry process. 2. The raw silk percentage of cocoon stored in polyethylene bag, increased 0.5% than the cotton bag storing method, not because of its reelability, but because of the better yield of cocoon bave. 3. Musty cocoon was not shown during the polyethylene hag storage, but the cocoons were attacked by rats as usually. 4. Polyethylene bag storing method invited more insects attack than the normal method, but the attack was able to cease by enclosing two naphthalene tablets in each bag.

가잠견사(家蠶繭絲) Fibroin의 품종별(品種別) Amino 산분석(酸分析)

최병희 ( Byong Hee Choe ),김한수 ( Han Soo Kim ) 한국잠사학회 1964 한국잠사곤충학회지 Vol.4 No.-

본 보고는 가잠사 fibroin의 amino산 성분을 품종별로 Paper chromatography에 의해 분석하여 품종간의 amino산 성분차이를 관찰하고 동 amino산이 잠체내에서의 유전성과 생합성에 어느정도의 관련성이 있나 고찰하기 위한 것으로 다음과 같은 결론을 얻었다. 1. Paper chromatography에 의한 각종 amino산의 전개상황은 품종간에 대체로 유의하였다. 2. 그러나 숫자적 분석치는 타인의 것과 유의하면서도 품종간에 다소의 차이를 보였다. 3. 각 교잡종 견사 fibroin의 amino산 성분비율은 모체의 유전인자와 어느 정도 관련성이 있는 것으로 보인다. 4. 영양성 amino산은 견사 fibroin의 성분으로서보다 잠아성장에 더욱 관련하는 것 같다. 5. 지금까지 문한상에 발견되지 않은 미지의 amino산이 특수영양종견사 fibroin에 나타났으며 Hydroxyprolin이 아닌가 추측된다. 6. 견사 fibroin의 견사선내에서의 생합성기구로서 Stepwise process나 Template 학설 어느측이나 일방적으로 지대할 수 없는 실험결과이었다. This report is to observe the amino acid composition at silk fibroins among varieties by using paper chromatography method and to study how they may concern with the genetical problem and the biochemical synthesis of the fibroin in silkgland. The results reached are as follows: 1. The amino acid composition of silk fibroin among varieties were observed as similar with each other on the paper chromatogram pictures. 2. In spite of the results of the amino acid composition analysis was similar with other workers results, there was some difference among varieties in numerical analysis. 3. The amino acid composition was considered to concern somewhat with the genetic problem of silk worm. 4. Some nutritive amino acids are considered to related with the worm growth more than the silk fibroin. 5. The paper chromatography of this report showed an unknown amino acid which was not found before in specific species silk fibroin and it is imagined as Hydroxyproline in view of other worker`s graphy result. 6. The biochemical synthesis mechanism of silk fibroin in the silk gland, neither Stepwise process nor Template, could stand with the results of this paper satisfactory one side.

명반처리(明礬處理)에 의한 견직물개선연구(絹織物改善硏究) -Sericin 정착(定着)을 중심(中心)으로 하여-

최병희 ( Byong Hee Choe ),남중희 ( Jung Hee Nahm ) 한국잠사학회 1979 한국잠사곤충학회지 Vol.21 No.2

본 연구는 백반이 sericin 정착하는 작용을 구명하기 위해서 시행된 것이며 이미 유혁기술에서 사용하여 오던 실례를 생사에 적용해보려는 것이었다. 타인의 보고는 Cr-명반이나 tannin, formalin 또는 vinyl acetate로 sericin 정착한 사실이 있기는 하나 이들은 섬유의 흡습성을 도외시한 것이어서 본보는 섬유의 흡습성을 보존하면서 sericin 정착을 하는 방식을 취하기로 했다. 한편 sericin 정착기구를 상세히 알기 위해 섬유의 침간 mechanism과 정착 mechanism도 고찰하여 보았다. 본 실험에서 얻어진 결과는 다음과 같다. 1. 백반을 sericin 정착에 이용할 때는 타인의 보고에서와 같이 고온처리는 금물이며 고온처리는 섬유를 경화시켰다. 2. 백반을 저온 처리하는 대신 3시간 이상 처리함이 바람직하였고 이때 백반만으로도 sericin 정착과 더불어 방수효과를 보였다. 3. 1% 백반농도이면 sericin 정착이 가능하였다. 4. sericin 정착만 고려할 때는 0.5% NaOH 10분간 처리 후 1% 백반용액 3시간처리방식이 가장 좋았다. 5. 그러나 sericin 정착과 흡습성을 고려할 때는 상기 방식의 역방법이 가장 좋았다. 6. sericin 정착검정은 습윤시료의 건조곡선도시로 더욱 선명하게 다루었다. 7. 연감률은 백반-NaOH 처리의 경우 4.3%였는데 이러한 정도이면 실용 선습에 능히 sericin 유실을 막을 것으로 본다. 8. 흡습성도 백반-NaOH 처리방식에서 미처리손과 동일한 흡습성을 유지했다. 9. 처리직후와 처리 3개월 후의 강력경도에 변화가 없었다. 10. 결론적으로 본 처리는 무연무색처리로서 유색처리(탄닌, Cr-명반)방법과 취기처리(formalin, vinyl acetate 처리)보다 개선된 방식이었다. This has been carried out how the sericin insoluble fixations of raw silk should be with potassium alum. This is learned from the leather tanning technique which the process works with collagen, a kind of proteins. Former reports had shown such works, however, they did not consider the moisture absorbability after their process reports by using chromium alum, formalin or vinyl acetate grafting. This report, however, paid attention to protect such absorbability as well as sericin fixation, so far it may be useful for plactical use of silk. In order to clear how the sericin is fixed with such chemicals, fundermental mechanism of weding process and chemical reaction against proteins were also discussed. The obtained results of the report are as followings. 1. Alum should not be treated for raw silk with high temperature bath like other reports because such treat induces raw silk to be stiffly after the treat. 2. It is recommended that raw silk should be treated with alum solution at room temperature for more than three hours. Even in this case, the use of only alum with raw silk could to fix sericin some how, but it increased the water proofness of the silk. 3. 1% of alum solution was found to be able to fix the sericin of raw silk. 4. In case we consider only sericin fixations, a combination treat of 1% alum for three hours and 0.5% NaOH for ten minutes method showed the best result. 5. In case we consider sericin insoluble fixation and moisture absorbility, the reversive combination of the above process was found to be the best results. 6. Sericin fixing evidence was shown with drying feature curves of wed each treated silk where we could to analyze how the chemical nature is changed after each treat. 7. Deguming ratio may be obtained up to 4.3% after the alum combination treat with regular raw silk. Such ratio was considered to be good enough for the purpose when the textile is washed with warm soap water. 8. Moisture absorbability of the combination treat of alum and NaOH was found to be good enough as well as non treated silk. 9. The tenacity and elongation of the treated silk did not change even after three month. 10. Above all, this method is considered to be better process than other coloured fixing (tannin method, Cr-alum method) or smell fixing (formalin method, vinyl acetate method).