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지속가능한 의류관리를 위한 최적 세탁코스 연구 - 세탁코스, 세탁성, 섬유손상도, 세제농도를 중심으로 -
백성필,박세은,박명자 한국의상디자인학회 2022 한국의상디자인학회지 Vol.24 No.4
The purpose of this research is to improve sustainable clothes care by comparing household washer’s standard course and quick course. Detergency at each course was classified by laundry weight, detergent concentration, and soils. Also, fabric damage from each course was compared. Washing experiments were carried out using two types of washing machines and three types of detergents. Using the standard soiled fabrics of EMPA 108 set, detergency was compared by laundry weight, soil, and detergent concentration. Additionally, fabric damage was evaluated using the mechanical action of MA-40. The results of the research were as follows. First, a standard course, having more working time exhibited better detergency than a quick course. However, the detergency deviation under 6㎏ laundry weight was as low as 9.0%. Second, detergency by the type of soil was more effective in standard course than in a quick course, but hydrophilic protein soils had a small detergency deviation at 7.6%. Moreover, hydrophobic oil, complex, and particulate soils had a higher deviation at 19.7% Third, fabric damage was in proportion to operating time. Fourth, a quick course showed approximately 80% detergency regardless of the type of detergent. in the case of using 50% of the recommended allowance by the detergent manufacturer. In conclusion, reducing the operating washing time and detergent concentration is in accordance with increasing sustainability, in the case of washing with lightly soiled fabrics under 6㎏ of laundry weight.
세탁과 건조에 따른 양모 위편성물의 편성조직별 형태 변화
박세은,백성필,박명자 한국의상디자인학회 2022 한국의상디자인학회지 Vol.24 No.2
The purpose of this study is to analyze the structural properties of 100% wool fabrics knitted with various stitch types and to evaluate dimensional stability from shrinkage in wet cleaning and drying. Materials were weft-knitted from twenty-four different stitches with 7 gauge using a computerized flatbed knitting machine. Weight, thickness, density, and length were measured. A domestic washing machine and a tumble dryer were used for the shrinkage test. The results are as follows: Knitted fabrics were divided into 3 groups based on weight per unit area. Porous knits show light weight whilst milano, pintuck, rib stitches belong to the heaviest group. A positive correlation between weight and thickness was found and the same result was obtained for wale density and weight. Dimensional shrinkage of knitted fabrics was increased during repetitive wet cleaning and drying regardless of knit stitches. Especially, fabrics knitted with float, tuck, cable, and links & links stitches samples were contracted more than 15% in the first treatment whereas 2x1 rib stitch showed 1% shrinkage rate. Fisherman and milano stitches contracted in both course and wale direction with similar shrinkage rates. However, porous knits with float and tuck stitches shrank in course direction by 20% as well as cable samples contracted from 5% to 20% after repeated washing and drying. On the other hand, 30% and 15% contraction of wale direction occurred in orderly float and links & links stitches, respectively. Machine dried knits have a higher shrinkage rate than air-dried knits, but the drying method did not affect to the direction of contraction. In conclusion, variations of knit, tuck, and float stitches affect knit construction and dimensional stability from shrinkage in wet cleaning and drying of wool knitted fabrics.