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Mariano Fortuny의 작품을 통한 Textile Design 연구
박선경 ( Sunk Yung Park ) 한국패션디자인학회 2006 한국패션디자인학회지 Vol.6 No.1
Mariano Fortuny는 독특하고 개별적인 특성을 지닌 채 새로운 창작의상의 세계를 개척하였고, 끊임없는 노력과 열정으로 무구한 텍스타일 디자인의 영역을 개발 발전 시켜 온 20세기를 대표하는 디자이너 이며 예술가다. 그는 사진사, 무대장식가, 화가, 건축가로서의 작품세계를 형성하고 있지만 이에 능가하는 텍스타일 디자이너로써의 영역은 확고하여 디자인의 개별적 특성으로써의 단순성, 창의성, 효율성은 동시대뿐 아니라, 현재에 이르기까지도 클래식한 디자인으로써의 가치가 인정되어 애용 받고 있다. 본 논문의 연구를 통해 그의 작품의 특성이 연구되어 짐으로, 텍스타일 및 소재 개발 뿐아니라 Artwear 가 추구하는 역할에 올바른 방향 제시로써 유용 될 줄 안다. Fortuny was a painter and for inventor who became interested in the possibilities offered by clothes. A mixture of artisan and alchemist, he endlessly exaimed, questioned and developed his theories on painting, photography, stage-lighting, architecture and theatre qualities and functional beauty, and also by Wagner``s contention that art must be a Cathatic experience which should purify and ennoble the spirit. The background for his design was the Greek influence found in the English painter``s the Liberty style, and above all, Art Nouveau. From these he developed the idea of the natural dress, uncorseted, hygienic and allowing the body freedom of movement.. Fortuny actually considered his dress concepts to be invention, and has his ``Delphos dress`` and his method of pleating patented in Paris in 1909. The quality of Fortuny``s work lay in its total individuality. The dyes he used were his special invention, semi-trans-parent so that movement and light would affect the colour. He used silk velvet which was hand-dyed and then hand-printed or stenciled: he also invented and patented his own special way stenciling. Fortuny created the vegetable-based colours, the dyes the blocks and the pattern design which results were very unique. His timeless solution to the problem of clothing was not constraining. His female form has become classic, and his name with achievements which he set up on a his territory of Art to wear would be enduring.
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