Indigo Dyeing of Mongolian Cashmere Fiber

( Lkhagva Narantuya ),( Cheunsoon Ahn ) 한국의류학회 2016 한국의류학회지 Vol.40 No.6

Mongolian cashmere sliver, yarn, and fabric were dyed and bleached with a solution of ascorbic acid and iron sulfate at 70℃, and then dyed using natural indigo powder at the dyeing temperature of 25℃ to 90℃ for 15- 90 minutes using the IR dyeing machine. K/S values of bleached samples decreased significantly when dyed above 70℃ dyeing temperature for a longer dyeing time. Bleached cashmere fabric showed a greater loss of tensile strength than unbleached cashmere fabric, even when the samples were dyed at 40℃. With a higher dyeing temperature, yarns lost fullness, became thinner, and the pores between the yarns were enlarged. The xray diffraction pattern exhibited a prominent increase in crystallinity and the protein assay indicated a loss of protein in the bleached sample dyed at 90℃. Thinning of scales, fractured or raised tip of scales, and roughness on the entire surface of the fiber were also observed. The results indicate that bleaching and high temperature dyeing cause a serious damage to cashmere fibers. In addition, bleaching and high temperature dyeing cause significant fiber damage. Natural indigo dyeing using low temperature dyeing is recommended to produce blue color cashmere.

천연 괴화 염색 면직물의 자외선 차단 효과

( Lkhagva Narantuya ),안춘순 ( Cheunsoon Ahn ) 한국의류학회 2020 한국의류학회지 Vol.44 No.5

Efficacy of Flos Sophorae as UV protective dye was examined in comparison to standard dyes of quercetin and rutin. Cotton was dyed using Flos Sophorae extract, quercetin, and rutin with 2 different concentrations for each dye. Each type of dyeing applied a temperature of 70oC or 90oC and a time of 30 min or 60 min. Color values of dyed samples were examined using a spectrocolorimeter. HPLC-DAD analysis indicated the amount of quercetin and rutin contained in Flos Sophorae used in the study. UPF values of dyed samples were measured using an ultraviolet transmittance analyzer. Experimental results indicated that dyeing cotton with Flos Sophorae extract, quercetin, or rutin increased the UPF value and decreased the UVA and UVB transmittance (%) regardless of dyeing conditions. A higher rank of UPF values were shown in cotton dyed using the Flos Sophorae extract that implied the possible concerted effect of quercetin, rutin, and flavonoid compounds contained in Flos Sophorae. The results indicated that Flos Sophorae is an effective natural dye that can improve the UV protective function of summer cotton fabric.

UV protection effect of cotton dyed with Flos Sophorae (Sophora Japonica L.) extracted with acid hydrolysis

Lkhagva Narantuya,안춘순 한국의류학회 2022 Fashion and Textiles Vol.9 No.1

Flos Sophorae extract was hydrolyzed using a mixed solution of methanol, HCl, and water to convert rutin to quercetin for the purpose of enhancing the UV protective efect of dyed cotton. Relative yield (%) of quercetin in the hydrolyzed extract was determined by the percent ratio of the absorbance of untreated Flos Sophorae extract at 359 nm to the absorbance of hydrolyzed extract at 370–371 nm. Quercetin yield was 93.09% when 1 M HCl was applied and 52.03% when 0.5 M HCl was applied, both with 60 min reaction time. The latter was applied in dyeing cotton with the dyebath containing hydrolyzed Flos Sophorae extract and water by 50:50 or 75:25 ratio. By dyeing with hydrolyzed Flos Sophorae extract the UPF value of cotton was enhanced to 13.80 indicating 92.76% blockage of the UV rays as opposed to 84.78% blockage by the same fabric without Flos Sophorae dyeing. The present method could produce a lightweight summer cotton with yellow color which could provide a moderate UV protection for daily summer attire.

황백 색소 팔마틴의 면직물에 대한 염색성 연구

( Longchun Li ),( Lkhagva Narantuya ),안춘순 ( Cheunsoon Ahn ) 한국의류학회 2015 한국의류학회지 Vol.39 No.4

This research investigated the dyeing behavior of palmatine (a major coloring compound of Phellodendron bark in addition to berberine) using mercerization (M), tannic acid (T), mercerization-tannic acid (MT), and tannic acid -mercerization (TM) pretreatments. Mercerization was conducted using 20℃ of 20% NaOH for 5 minutes. Tannic acid treatment was conducted using 15% o.w.f. solution of tannic acid at 60℃ for 30 minutes and fixed with potassium antimonyl tartrate trihydrate. Dyeing was conducted using 1% o.w.f. palmatine chloride hydrate with 1:100 liquor ratio at 10-95℃ for 10-60 minutes in a dyebath of pH 3-9. MT method resulted in the highest dye uptake and was two times higher than the average dye uptake of T method. MT method provided the best result when the dyeing temperature was 80℃ or 95℃ and the dyeing time was 60 minutes. The pH of the dyebath had less effect on the dye uptake but a pH higher than 5 provided better results. The study confirmed that palmatine is a major coloring compound of Phellodendron bark and that the MT method can be used as a successful cotton dyeing method.

해외 현지신문의 한·중·일 문화콘텐츠 관련 기사의 내용분석 연구-말레이시아, 싱가폴, 몽골, 우즈베키스탄, 스페인을 중심으로-

안춘순 ( Cheunsoon Ahn ),( Lkhagva Narantuya ) 한국의류학회 2016 한국의류학회지 Vol.40 No.6

This research investigated the relative influence of culture contents from Korea, China, and Japan published in the internet version of local newspapers for Malaysia, Mongolia, Uzbekistan, and Spain (from January 2010 to December 2014) and from Singapore (January 2012 to December 2014) using content analysis focused on the frequency distribution of newspaper content. `Food` showed the highest appearance frequency of the 11 culture contents investigated in the study. Among the articles related to Korea, `Pop Music` showed the highest frequency for Malaysia, Uzbekistan, and Spain and `Star` showed the highest frequency for Singapore and Mongolia. Among the Hallyu related contents, `Pop Music` showed the highest frequency followed by `Star`, `Movie`, and `Drama`. Articles related to Korea showed a significantly higher frequency than articles related to China and Japan in `Pop Music` and `Star` categories. Spain showed articles related to Korea only in the `Pop Music` category.

국내 뷰티 관련 고등교육 프로그램의 현황 및 교과과정 조사 연구

( Long Chun Li ),안춘순 ( Cheun Soon Ahn ),( Lkhagva Narantuya ),박선화 ( Seon Hwa Park ),조설 ( Xue Zhao ) 한국의류학회 2016 한국의류학회지 Vol.40 No.2

This research investigates the current state of beauty related curriculums and departments of undergraduate and graduate programs in Korea. The results also compared beauty related programs at selected overseas universities. A comprehensive list of 4-year universities with beauty related undergraduate and/or graduate programs were surveyed using the KCUE University Entrance Information (http://www.adiga.kr) site provided by the Korean Council for University Education. Information on the name of the department, curriculum, and year of foundation were obtained from the websites of individual universities. There were 58 universities which have beauty related higher education programs; 43 undergraduate programs, 12 graduate programs, and 40 special graduate programs. The number of special graduate departments were 3.7 times larger than the graduate departments; in addition, 43.9% of the special graduate departments were located in the Seoul/Gyeonggi/Incheon area. The curriculums of beauty related 4-year undergraduate departments were focused on the ‘Beauty care service’ area (50.2%), whereas the curriculums of graduate departments were focused on the ‘Cosmetic science’ area (40.8%). In case of the special graduate programs, there was little difference between the ‘Beauty care service’ area (24.4%) and the ‘Cosmetic science’ area (27.7%). Beauty related programs of overseas universities were mostly focused on cosmetic science with some universities specialized in the marketing aspect.

시판 쪽잎 분말의 쪽 염료에의 활용을 위한 염색성 향상 연구

유완송 ( Wan Song Yoo ),안춘순 ( Cheun Soon Ahn ),( Lkhagva Narantuya ),( Long Chun Li ) 한국의류학회 2014 한국의류학회지 Vol.38 No.4

This research investigated the effective conditions to dye cotton with commercial indigo leaf powder. We tested dyeing conditions of: pH of dyebath (6.5, 9-12), heating (20oC, 50oC, 70oC, 90oC), ageing (0, 0.5, 1,4, 24 hours), reduction time (0, 30, 60 min), and dyeing temperature (2oC, 10oC, 20oC, 50oC, 70oC, 80oC),dyeing was conducted for 20 minutes. The highest K/S value was obtained when cotton was dyed using pH11 dye-bath, heated at 50oC for 30 minutes, aged for 24 hours at room temperature (20oC), reduction carried out for 30 minutes, and dyed at 50oC. It is proposed that the K/S value is primarily influenced by the dye-bath pH and dyeing temperature, followed by the presence or absence of ageing time and reduction time. The color of cotton with high K/S values was B type by Munsell hue value, which was similar to the color obtained in previous studies by freshly made indigo leaf powder and indigo leaf juice. The results indicate that the dyeing conditions established in this research are suitable to maximize the dyeability of commercial indigo leaf powder and that the indigo leaf powder can be used as a substitute for fresh indigo leaf juice.