Multi-layered crown with scroll pattern is a type of the metal crown of the Bodhisattva which had appeared in the 13th century and largely made in the Early Joseon Dynasty. There are 19 pieces of the crown remained; the front side is made with overlap...
Multi-layered crown with scroll pattern is a type of the metal crown of the Bodhisattva which had appeared in the 13th century and largely made in the Early Joseon Dynasty. There are 19 pieces of the crown remained; the front side is made with overlapped two or three metal plates. Small plate(小板) is decorated with scrolling lotus pattern, medium plate(中板) and large plate(大板) are decorated with openwork circular-shaped scroll pattern. Sometimes blue glass beads, crystals, and natural pearls are inlaid into the surface of the crown. These delicate techniques tell us that this type of Bodhisattva crown was one of the outstanding works of metal crafts of the time.
Considering it was low-height diadem crown which widely used from Three Kingdoms Period to Early Goryeo Dynasty, the creation of multi-layered crown with scroll pattern may be influenced by new styles of crown introduced from China. High crown of Liao(遼) Dynasty has many similar points in shape with multi-layered crown of 13th and 14th centuries: the multi-layered structure, narrow width and high shape. Also, the lotus-scroll pattern and piled scroll pattern are similar to those of Bodhisattva crown made in Sichuan Province(四川省), in the Song Dynasty. But there are some features rarely found in Bodhisattva crowns of China: overlapping metal plates to make the front side of crown, using openwork technique to carve circular-shaped scroll pattern, putting gems on the crown.
These crowns are largely divided into two types. The first is the crown which has a triangle-shaped small plate, made from the 13th century to 15th century. This type of crown has high height and narrow width, additional ornaments on plates are rarely found. Second is the crown which has head-of-Ruyi-shaped(如意頭形) small plate. This type first appeared in the Late Goryeo dynasty and lasted until the Late Joseon dynasty. Patterns of crown with head-of-Ruyi-shaped small plate is not as delicate as the first type, but more three-dimensional because many small ornaments such as phoenix(鳳凰), clouds(雲), cintāmaṇis in flame(火焰寶珠) are attached on the crown. Because the body expression of the Bodhisattva in the Late Goryeo Dynasty is simple compared to the previous period, crown with many ornaments could retrieve its splendor.
The patterns of the multi-layered crown with scroll pattern are significant evidence to suppose the time of produce. The most important pattern is the scroll motif carved on the entire crown, and there are many major patterns like head-of-Ruyi pattern, phoenix, and cintāmaṇi in flame. Among them, lotus-scroll pattern on the small plate and circular-shaped scroll pattern on the middle and large plates are similar to the ornamental pattern of metal crafts and lacquer wares from Goryeo. But in the case of head-of-Ruyi pattern, continuous head-of-Ruyi pattern which widely used during the late Yuan Dynasty and Early Ming Dynasty may have affected multi-layered crown of Goryeo and Joseon. Also, phoenixes having different tails are estimated to have been affected from Yuan. Phoenix ornaments generally appeared on wooden crowns of the Joseon Dynasty, through this we can see multi-layered crown with scroll pattern had a big effect in the wooden crown.
Elaborate techniques of the crown show that it is one of the finest metal Craftworks. After cutting metal plates, many skills such as repousée, line carving, openwork, inlay were used upon producing a multi-layered crown. Among these, repousée, line carving, openwork techniques were used consistently in many multi-layered crowns without a significant change. However, inlay technique is divided into four detailed techniques: putting a small extra plate with fixed jewel under cintāmaṇi in flame, using metal prongs and bezel, using only bezel and putting beads into the lotus ornament. During the Unified Silla Dynasty(統一新羅時代, 668~935) pearls and crystals used to decorate the halo of Buddha, while in Goryeo and Joseon Dynasties, gems were inserted into the body or the eyes of Buddhist statues occasionally. Inlay techniques of the crown is following these old traditions.
The appearance of these delicate and elaborate metal crowns was due to developments of craft skills during the Goryeo dynasty and the existence of patrons who could support the production of high-quality artworks. In Military Regime and Yuan Dynasty Interference Period, artisans made varied handicrafts using metalworking techniques like repousée, openwork, inlay. During the Goryeo Military Regime, the period the multi-layered crown with scroll pattern was appeared, the relationship between China and Goryeo become relatively estranged to each other. At that time, more independent artistic styles were created such as the inlaid Celadon and lacquer ware inlaid with mother-of-pearl. Thus, the emergence of unique types of crown in this period is related to the tendency towards naturalization.
It was the development of the state-run handicraft industry system and social circumstances allowing the patronage of the upper class to Buddhism. It continuously supported the produce of the multi-layered crown with scroll pattern in Early Joseon Dynasty. At that time craftsmen belonging to government were working under the strict system of role-sharing, as shown in Gongjeon(工典, technical laws) of Gyeongguk Daejeon(經國大典, complete national code of law). And they used to make Buddhist sculptures supported by devout patrons of Buddhist art, such as royal family or government officials. But social change took place in the 16th century. On the account of enhanced anti-Buddhist policies interrupted the participation of the upper class to Buddhism and diminished the economic power of the temples. Thus, metal crown which requires high cost has been difficult to make. For that reason, in the Late Joseon Dynasty, multi-layered crown with scroll pattern decreased drastically and more economical wooden crown replaced it. Nevertheless, that wooden crown still has a similar composition with multi-layered crown; scroll pattern of front plates, phoenix, and cloud-shaped metal ornaments.
In conclusion, multi-layered Bodhisattva crown with scroll pattern is very important for two reasons. Firstly, this type of crown is the origin of the wooden Bodhisattva crown with metal ornaments which widely used throughout Joseon dynasty. Secondly, the crown lets us know that metalworking of the Late Goryeo Dynasty and Early Joseon Dynasty reached a high standard of craftsmanship. Until now it has not received much attention in the field of Buddhist metal craft, but this paper should be helpful to reveal the meaning of the crown. It was difficult to define the precise date of works and the kind of inlaid gems because scientific examination about that was rarely conducted. Nevertheless, if systematic analysis about the multi-layered crown with scroll pattern is accomplished in the future, we will be able to understand it better.