Effects of Linear and Nonlinear Shear Deformation on Measurement for Stickiness of Cosmetics Using Rotational Rheometer

Bae, Jung-Eun,Ryoo, Joo-Yeon,Kang, Nae-Gyu Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea 2020 Korean journal of cosmetic science Vol.2 No.1

Cosmetics are representative complex fluids, and there have been many studies focusing on the correlation between the rheological properties and sensory attributes. Various instrumental measurements have been suggested to evaluate the sensory attributes, and one of the most common instruments is Texture Analyzer (TA). Although it is reported that the adhesiveness measured by TA is related to the stickiness of cosmetics, there exists reproducibility problem because measurements with TA are sensitive to application conditions. In this study, an instrumental protocol using rotational rheometer has been set up to measure the stickiness of cosmetics. This protocol consists of two steps. The first step is a preconditioning step, and various types of shear deformations are applied to the samples. The next step is the extensional flow and the axial force is measured. When the amplitude of the shear flow corresponded to the linear viscoelastic region, the axial force is the same as those without preconditioning. On the other hand, an axial force decreases as variation nonlinearity increases. It is because the effects of microstructure changes caused by nonlinear deformation affects the extensional flow. It is worth noting that a new protocol facilitates to evaluate the stickiness of cosmetics in a more systematic way.

Liquid Crystal Emulsions Containing High Content Ceramides for Improved Skin Barrier Functions

Lee, Jun Bae,Noh, Minjoo,Kim, Su Ji,Jang, Jihui Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea 2019 Korean journal of cosmetic science Vol.1 No.1

In this work, we fabricated liquid crystal (LC) emulsions with fatty alcohol in order to stabilize high content ceramide in cosmetic formulation. We investigated the role of fatty alcohol and surfactant in the formation of higher order structure. As a result, we found that they play a crucial role to form higher order structure. SAXS study shows that ceramide can be incorporated up to 3% in cosmetic formulation with higher order structure and its stability was maintained up to 12 weeks at room temperature. According to WAXS study, the higher order structure can suppress the re-crystallization of ceramide in cosmetic formulation. Finally, we performed in vivo skin barrier recovery test for the damaged skin. LC emulsions with ceramide and O/W emulsions show significant effect in skin barrier recovery at D 1, D 2 and D 6 compared to the untreated condition. While only LC emulsions show significant skin recovery effect at D 14. We expect that LC emulsions are the promising skin carrier to stabilize ceramide and LC emulsions with ceramide can improve the skin barrier function.

A comparison of predictive irritation tests with surfactants on human and animal skin

Brown, Y.K.H. Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea 1972 대한화장품학회지 Vol.2 No.1

Nine DETERGENT base materials have been examined in a series of in vivo and in vitro TESTS involving the use of HUMAn SKIN and various ANIMAL SKINS. Lack of agreement between the results from different tests was apparent and cautious approach to predictive SKIN-IRRITANCY testing with detergents is advocated.

Efficacy of Caffeine in Promoting Hair Growth by Enhancing Intracellular Activity of Hair Follicles

Kim, Sehyun,Kim, Su Na,Jeong, Gyusang,Hong, Min Jung,Lee, Yonghee,Shin, Seung Hyun,Park, Hyeokgon,Jung, Yu Chul,Kim, Eun Joo,Park, Byung Cheol,Kim, Hyoung-June Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea 2019 Korean journal of cosmetic science Vol.1 No.1

Caffeine is widely used in cosmetics and hair care products. Although its efficacy in stimulating hair growth has been confirmed in recent studies, its mechanism of action remains unelucidated. The present study aimed to determine the effects of caffeine on hair growth, with a focus on intracellular hair follicle activity. Experiments included in vitro and ex vivo tests, and a clinical study. Caffeine enhanced the cellular activity and potassium channel opening. It also promoted human hair follicle elongation. Immunohistochemical staining showed that the Ki-67 signal was significantly higher in cells treated with caffeine. These efficacies of caffeine were comprehensively demonstrated in clinical results, wherein caffeine-containing shampoo improved hair density after 24 weeks of testing. Collectively, the results of this study demonstrated that caffeine promoted hair growth and inhibited the progression of hair loss by enhancing intracellular activity of hair follicles.

Studies of Solubilized Micellar Solutions

Attwood, D.,Currie, L.R.J.,Elworthy, P.H. Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea 1974 대한화장품학회지 Vol.4 No.1

Manufacture of cosmetics and toiletries with low energy and agitation

Reng, Alwin-K.,Trautmann, Manfred,Skrypzak, Werner,Quack, Jochen-M. Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea 1980 대한화장품학회지 Vol.8 No.1

Repairing Damaged Hair Using Pentapeptides of Various Amino Acid Sequences with Crosslinking Reaction

Choi, Wonkyung,Son, Seongkil,Song, Sang-Hun,Kang, Nae Gyu,Park, Sun-gyoo Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea 2020 Korean journal of cosmetic science Vol.2 No.1

The aim of this study is to investigate the effect of various pentapeptides on hair repair depending on the characteristics of comprising amino acids using crosslinking agents in hair. Total ten peptides were synthesized with two kinds of amino acids respectively, of which were previously categorized according to R group of the amino acids contributing to the characteristic of each peptide: STTSS (Ser-Thr-Thr-Ser-Ser), LIILL (Leu-Ile-Ile-Leu-Leu), CMMCC (Cys-Met-Met-Cys-Cys), DEEDD (Asp-Glu-Glu-Asp-Asp), RKKRR (Arg-Lys-Lys-Arg-Arg), TAMRA-STTSS, TAMRA-LIILL, TAMRA-CMMCC, TAMRA-DEEDD, and TAMRA-RKKRR. Pentapeptide alone, or pentapeptides with crosslinking agents such as polymeric carbodiimide (PCI) and 1-ethyl-3-(3-dimethylaminopropyl) carbodiimide (EDC) were treated to chemically damaged hair. Hair diameter and break strength (N = 40/case) were measured to calculate tensile strength of hair for computing hair repair ratio, and fluorescence yields (N = 20/case) were collected for hair treated with TAMRA-peptides. The tensile strength of hair treated with pentapeptides alone, or pentapeptides with cross-linking agents is consistent with the fluorescence yield from the microscope images of the cross-sectioned hair in vision and in numerical values. Pentapeptides consisting of hydrophobic amino acids (LIILL), amino acids with sulfur (CMMCC), and basic amino acids (RKKRR) increased the tensile strength in perm-damaged hair. Pentapeptides with no extra carboxyl/amine groups in R group of amino acids resulted in no significant differences in hair strength and fluorescence yield among hairs treated with alone and with crosslinkers. Pentapeptides with extra carboxyl groups or amine groups enabled further strengthening of hair due to increased bonds within the hair after carbodiimide coupling reaction. The hair repairs of pentapeptides with various amino acid sequences were studied using crosslinking. Depending on the physical characteristics of comprising amino acids, the restoration of damaged hair was observed with tensile strength of hair and fluorescence signals upon cross-sectioned hair in parallel to possibly understand the binding tendency of each pentapeptide within the hair.

Inhibitory Effect of Haplamine on Melanosome Transport and Its Mechanism of Action

Lee, Kyung Rhim,Myung, Cheol Hwan,Hwang, Jae Sung Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea 2019 Korean journal of cosmetic science Vol.1 No.1

Melanosomes are specific melanin-containing intracellular organelles of epidermal melanocytes. In epidermal melanocytes, there are three kinds of key player proteins. Rab27a, melanophilin or Slac2-a and Myosin 5a form a tripartite complex connects the melanosome. Mature melanosomes make movements through the tripartite protein complex along actin filaments.In this study, we found that the haplamine (6-Methoxyflindersine) induced melanosome aggregation around the nucleus in epidermal melanocyte. In an attempt to elucidate the inhibitory effect of haplamine on melanosome transport, effect of haplamineon the expression level of Rab27a, melanophilin and Myosin 5a was measured. The results indicated that haplamine up to 5��M effectively suppressed mRNA and protein expression level of melanophilin.To determine the upstream regulator of melanophilin regulated by haplamine, we checked the level of MITF, c-JUN and USF1. Those are possible transcription factor of melanophilin. Among them,treatment of USF1 siRNA decreased mRNA and protein expression level of USF1 as well as melanophilin. Also, treatment of haplamine decreased mRNA and protein expression level of melanophilin as well as USF1 in a dose-dependent manner. Consequently, we found the inhibitory effect of haplamine on melanosome transport in melan-a melanocyte. Treatment of haplamine reduced melanophilin expression level which is a key protein of melanosome transport. We identified that USF1 could be a major transcription factor of melanophilin regulated by haplamine.

Screening Methods for Anti-senescence Activity in Dermal Fibroblasts under Pyruvate-deprivation Conditions

Kil, In Sup,Shim, Jinsup,Cho, Gayoung,Choi, Sowoong,Son, Eui Dong,Kim, Hyoung-June Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea 2019 Korean journal of cosmetic science Vol.1 No.1

The identification of compounds with anti-senescence activity in cell culture system is a first step in aging research. Given that pyruvate can be used energy source by conversion to acetyl-CoA in mitochondria, and protects cultured cell from various stress-induced cell damage and cell death, synthetic media (e.g., DMEM) often includes 1 mM pyruvate, which is very higher than the pyruvate concentration in human blood (approximately 30 ��M). However, the use of medium containing high concentration of pyruvate is not suitable for screening anti-senescence compounds, because pyruvate also protects against the cellular senescence of primary human dermal fibroblasts (NHDFs) through NAD+ generated during conversion to lactate. In this study, four extracts, i.e., Sprouted seed and fruit complex, Poncirus trifoliata fruit extract, Jaum balancing complex, and Prunus mume extract were used for evaluation of different anti-senescence effect in the absence or presence of 0.1 mM pyruvate, similar to the physiological pyruvate concentration. The senescence in NHDFs cultured with DMEM in the presence of 0.1 mM pyruvate (approximately the physiological concentration in human blood) is accelerated, as observed in pyruvate deprivation conditions. The cytotoxicity of the Poncirus trifoliata fruit extract was protected by pyruvate, and Jaum balancing complex and Prunus mume extract had anti-senescence activity in the presence of 0.1 mM pyruvate, but not in the absence of pyruvate. Given that pyruvate is a powerful protector against both cytotoxicity and cellular senescence, the screening of candidate agents for anti-senescence in high pyruvate conditions using an in vitro cell culture system is not valid. Therefore, we recommend the use of a low concentration of pyruvate to evaluate the anti-senescence effects of candidates, which is more similar to in vivo aging conditions than excessive stress-induced senescence models, to exclude the effect of excessive pyruvate in vitro.

A Comprehensive Study for Two Damage Sites of Human Hair upon UV-B Damage

Song, Sang-Hun,Son, Seongkil,Kang, Nae Gyu Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea 2020 Korean journal of cosmetic science Vol.2 No.1

Protection mechanisms for skin damage of ultraviolet (UV) absorbers in personal care products for protection against UV are well studied, but not for hair protection. The purpose of this study is to describe and compare the changes of physical property produced in human hair by doses of the UV-B exposure causing protein degradation. To observe the change of physical properties in hair, the experimental intensity of UV-B exposure has been established on the basis of statistical data from official meterological administration as daily one hour sunlight exposure for two weeks. Polysilicone-15, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (OMC), and octocrylene were employed for UV-B absorber, and those were treated to hair swatch by rubbing wash through shampoo and conditioner. Bending rigidity displayed kinetically successive reduction at high doses of UV exposure up to the 8,000 s, and exhibited different level at each sample of UV-B absorber. However, the values of Bossa Nova Technologies (BNT) for shinning factor were already saturable at the 2,000 s exposure except that treated with polysilicone-15. The differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) to measure a strength of inner protein produces a successive reduction of enthalpy as like a reduction of bending rigidity upon UV exposure. Surface roughness from lateral force microscope (LFM) acquired immediately after UV exposure show a saturable frictional voltage which has been also found in a saturable BNT data as the time of UV exposure increases. Through researching the DSC and the LFM, shinning of hair was much correlated to the protein damage at the surface, and bending rigidity could be regulated by the protein structural damage inside hair. Therefore, the optimization of efficient strategy for simultaneous prevention of hair protein on the surface and internal hair was required to maintain physical properties against UV.