The Science and Technology of Clothing Appearance and Fit

Fan, Jintu The Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles 2004 패션정보와 기술 Vol.1 No.-

Visual Perception of Garment Surface Appearance

Fan, Jintu,Liu, Fu Korean Society for Emotion and Sensibility 2002 감성과학 Vol.5 No.3

This paper concerns with the relationship between the visual perception of the degree of pucker or wrinkles of garment surfaces and the geometrical parameters of surfaces. In this study, four potentially relevant parameters of the surface profile are considered, namely, the variance ($\sigma$$^2$), the cutting frequency (F$\_$c/), the effective disparity curvature (D$\_$ce/) (Defined as the average disparity curvature of the wrinkled surface over the eyeball distance of the observer) and the frequency component of the disparity curvature ( D$\_$cf/). Based on the experiments using garment seams having varying degree of pucker (i.e. the wrinkles along a seam line), it was found that, while the logarithm of each of these four parameters has a strong linear relationship with the visually perceived degree of wrinkles, following the Web-Fetchner Law, the effective disparity curvature ( D$\_$ce/) and the frequency component of the disparity curvature (D$\_$cf/) appeared to have stronger relationships with the visual perception. This finding is in agreement with the suggestion by Rogers '||'&'||' Cagenello that human visual system may compute the disparity curvature in discriminating curved surfaces. It also suggested an objective method of measuring the degree of surface wrinkles.

Computing Pore Size Distribution in Non-woven Fibrous Filter Media

He Bai,Xiaoming Qian,Jintu Fan,Yao Qian,Yongchao Duo,Yongsheng Liu,Xiaobo Wang 한국섬유공학회 2020 Fibers and polymers Vol.21 No.1

Fundamental understanding of transport properties of non-woven fibrous material is depended on in dept cognitionof their microstructure. Non-woven fibrous filter media are formed by the random distribution of fibers in a specific spaceexhibit a complicated pore size structure. Computing pore size distribution (PSD) is a vital parameter in studying materialtransport dynamics. In this work, a theoretical model was suggested based on the gamma distribution and fiber orientationdistribution to predict the PSD in non-woven fibrous filter media. In parallel, the analytical model was compared with theprevious PSD theories and experimental results. The 3D virtual fiber structure was constructed by using GeoDict code, andthe pore size was represented by the inscribed circle diameter. Parameters influencing the PSD were studied, including fiberdiameter, porosity, and fiber orientation. Comparison of simulation results with analytical model was made. The resultsdemonstrate that the angle between the fiber and the Z-axis has little effect on the PSD. When the porosity is consistent,smaller pores can be formed by reducing fiber diameter. With the fiber diameter is constant, larger pores can be formed byincreasing the porosity.

The Moisture Management and Drying Properties of Weft Knitted Plating Fabrics

Qing Chen,Dahua Shou,Rong Zheng,Jintu Fan,Xianfu Wan,Bailu Fu,Pibo Ma 한국섬유공학회 2020 Fibers and polymers Vol.21 No.6

The six types of weft knitted fabric in plating structure were made by cotton, polypropylene and polyester withdifferent number of filaments. The fabrics were tested by moisture management tester, vertical wicking and drying test. It wasfound that the large water absorption difference and the large filament density difference between the inner and outer side offabric could result in the better water absorption and drying ability. The fabric with polypropylene yarn (75D/48f) at innerside and cotton yarn (40 Ne) at outer side had best moisture management property evaluated by MMT. While the fabric withpolypropylene yarn (75D/48f) at the inner side and polyester yarn (75D/144f) at the outer side had highest vertical wickingand drying rate.

Development of Moisture Management Knitted Fabrics Integarated with Non-smooth Concave Surface and Mesh Structure

Qing Chen,Dahua Shou,Bailu Fu,Rong Zheng,Jintu Fan 한국섬유공학회 2022 Fibers and polymers Vol.23 No.4

In order to improve the moisture management of knitted fabric, double layered structure usually was applied toobtain better moisture management properties, but the thickness of fabric could be increased. To solve this problem, thepartial double layered structure was constructed on the base of single layered structure. Further in order to improve the airpermeability, the mesh structure was also designed. The results show the moisture management of noval structure not onlyhad better one-way transport property but also improve the water vapor and air permeability compared with both single jerseyand double jersey structure. Besides, the effects of ratio of total double layered pattern area to total area, ratio of one doublelayered pattern area to total double layered area, ratio of hollow area to total area, ratio of mesh area to total area on moisturemanagement, water vapor transport and air transport property were discussed. This study demonstrated non-smooth concavesurface with porper unit size could improve the mositure management property and reduce the fabric weight and thickness,and the mesh structure could improve the air permeability but weaken the moisture management property. The results showedthis was an effective solution to balance liquid, vapor and air transportation in a knitted system.

Effect of Knitting and Finishing Parameters on the Initial Young’s Modulus and Tensile Strength for Polyester Weft Knitted Interlock Fabric

Qing Chen,Dahua Shou,Rong Zheng,Bailu Fu,Jintu Fan,Pibo Ma 한국섬유공학회 2021 Fibers and polymers Vol.22 No.4

75D/72f and 100D/96f polyester yarns were knitted to develop three kinds of fabrics with different densities (large,medium and small) on circular knitting machine (gauge E18). It was found that the strength of the fabrics increased with theincrease of loop density, and the initial modulus of the fabrics also increased. In order to obtain better strength and lowerinitial modulus, the washing and heat setting process of the fabric were studied and explored. The strength and initialmodulus of the three density fabrics of the two yarn specifications decreased after pre-washing. Finally, the lowest initialmodulus (0.36 MPa at warp direction and 0.22 MPa at weft direction) were found in sample (sample no. 3-3) made of 75Dfilament in longest loop length under 140 oC heat setting. The weft strength and warp strength were 9.54 MPa and 5.28 MParespectively.

Impact of electrical heating on effective thermal insulation of a multi-layered winter clothing system for optimal heating efficiency

Park, Huiju,Hwang, Soo-kyung,Lee, Joo-Young,Fan, Jintu,Jeong, Youngjin Emerald Group Publishing Limited 2016 INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF CLOTHING SCIENCE AND TECH Vol.28 No.2

<P>Purpose - The purpose of this paper is to investigate the impact of the distance of the heating unit from the body in a multi-layered winter clothing system on effective thermal insulation and heating efficiency. Design/methodology/approach - To identify changes in the thermal insulation and heating efficiency of electrical heating in different layers inside a winter clothing ensemble, a series of thermal manikin tests was conducted. A multi-layered winter ensemble with and without activation of a heating unit was tested on the thermal manikin under two different ambient temperature conditions (10 degrees C and -5 degrees C). Findings - Results show that the effective thermal insulation of test ensembles increased by 5-7 percent with the activation of the heating unit compared to that without the activation. The closer the heating unit to the body, the higher the effective thermal insulation was in both ambient temperature conditions. This trend was more significant at lower ambient temperature. Research limitations/implications - The results of this study indicate that providing electric heating next to the skin is the most effective in increasing effective thermal insulation and decreasing body heat loss in both ambient temperature (-5 degrees C and 10 degrees C). This trend was more remarkable in colder environment at -5 degrees C of ambient temperature as evidenced by sharp decrease in heating efficiency and effective thermal insulation with an increase in distance between the manikin skin and heating unit at -5 degrees C of ambient temperature compared to at 10 degrees C of ambient temperature. Practical implications - Based on the results, it is expected that proximity heating next to the skin, in cold environment, may reduce the weight and size of the battery for the heating unit because of the higher efficiency of electric heating and the potentially immediate perception of warmth supported by the greatest increase in effective thermal insulation, as well as the lowest heat loss that comes with activation of heating on the first layer in cold environment. Originality/value - The finding of this study provides guidelines to sportswear designers, textile scientists, sports enthusiasts, and civilians who consider electric heating benefits for improved thermal comfort and safety in cold environments, especially in the areas of outdoor and winter sports and in military service. The results of this study indicate that providing electric heating next to the skin is the most effective in increasing effective thermal insulation and decreasing body heat loss in both ambient temperature (-5 degrees C and 10 degrees C).</P>

Development of tricot warp knitted fabrics with moisture management for casual shirt

Qing Chen,Jie Feng,Bomou Ma,Bailu Fu,Rong Zheng,Jintu Fan 한국의류학회 2022 Fashion and Textiles Vol.9 No.1

Warp knitted mesh fabric was usually applied to sportswear due to good air transmission, but without multilayer structure and one-way transport property. In order to solve this problem, the miss-lapping structure was applied to examine the possibility to fabricate multilayer and improve water transport in warp knitting structure. Besides, the efect of thread type and warp density on comfort properties were also exploited to enhance the moisture management. The moisture management test, water vapor permeability and air permeability were examined. Long foat at the back side in structure I formed by miss-lapping could improve liquid transport and air permeability, but slightly reduce water vapor permeability. With proper density, there existed the optimal one-way transport capacity and overall moisture management. Warp density in 20 cpc was an optimal parameter of knitting process. Taking advantage of miss-lapping, sample 5 where polypropylene was partly threaded on GB1 provided best moisture management, water vapor permeability and air permeability.