對外交流에서 나타난 渤海의 衣料 고찰-對唐ㆍ對日 관계를 중심으로-

전현실(Jeon Hyun-Sil) 한국고대학회 2004 先史와 古代 Vol.21 No.-

This study is considered about the textiles of Parhae through international relation for ancient Japan and Tang. The recorded items, which were exchanged from Parhae(渤海) to Tang(唐) and ancient Japan, are the pelt of marten, seal, bear and tiger skin or Ammowha(暗摸靴), Gu(?) and so on. Other items from Tang and ancient Japan to Parhae are various clothes and material like silk and so on. This Parhae’s clothes made with leather obtained through hunting were the main product of Parhae and had been greatly famous in Tang and ancient Japan. At that time, Tang and ancient Japan had been only dependent on the agricultural life but had not been accustomed to the hunting life, and thereupon, the people in Tang and Nara(奈良) Era had difficulties to get leather clothes. Accordingly, the leather products stood for the rich, and the people who purchased the leather products from Parhae were recognized as the rich and authority. On the other hand, the system of official uniform was formed in 739~742 A.D. by the prince and the royal family in Parhae were dispatched to Tang and the various items and clothes made out of the textile like a type of silk. These clothes were considered as the formal uniform like Kwanbok(官服) of Parhae. It might be because the 3th King Mun(文王) in Parhae accepted the Tang's culture positively. So, Tang's culture could affect Parhae's and this costume system also may be established at that time. Meanwhile, the clothes from Japan to Parhae were mostly silk products, which were generally the high-quality fabric such as Reng(綾) and Ra(羅), and the silk and hemp easily fabricated, and were also imported for the costume to be fit for Sangbok(常服) system of Tang. For the official uniform of the governors at high ranks in Parhae, the fabric like Reng or Ra might be used as well as in Tang, however, Parhae producing only the fabric such as Ju(紬) and Po(布) had to satisfy the lack of high-quality silk products through the import from Japan.

고대 한일 관계에서 본 평직 견직물 주(紬), 시(施)에 관한 연구

전현실(Hyun Sil Jeon),강순제(Soon Che Kang) 한국복식학회 2011 服飾 Vol.61 No.4

This study analyzed historical records on silk tabby-Ju(紬), Si(施)- in a diachronic and spatial point of view. The historical records were written in Samguksagi(三國史記) of Korea, Eastern barbarian[東夷] section of Ershiwush(二十五史) of China and Ritkokusi(六國史) of Japan from the 4th century to the early 10th century. The study finally could reach the conclusions as follow. Firstly, records that fabrics like Ju were used were found in the Korean historical documents written on Balhae(渤海) of the 8th century and Silla(新羅) of the 9th century. On the other hand, no official record on production of fabrics like Ju was found in the Japanese historical documents up to the 10th century. Instead, there are some records that Si was produced and used for the first time in the 7th century and it was rapidly spread in the 8th century. In the 9th century, the number of records on Si was sharply decreased and the importance of Si in the foreign-relation point of view also went down gradually. Secondly, records on using and trading with both Ju(紬) and Si(시) in the foreign relation of two countries were shown from the 8th century to the 9th century. In the period, international exchange had been promoted among Balhae, Silla and ancient Japan. In the 9th century, fabrics like Ju of ancient Korea was introduced to ancient Japan ancient Japanese people could not manufacture Ju by themselves at that time. On this account, we assumed that ancient Japanese people might consider Ju as high quality fabric rather than Si that had been used as general fabric. Meanwhile, it is found that Japan presented various kinds of Si to Balhae and Silla from the early 8th century. As the foreign relation between Silla and ancient Japan got weaker in the mid-8th century, frequency and amount of supplying Si to Balhae were relatively increased. Besides Si, Balhae was given a lot of silk yarn and floss. These fabrics presumably were used as raw material of Ju in Balhae because Balhae got low output of silk due to its geographical condition.

흥덕왕 복식제도 원전 고찰 및 분석

전현실(Hyun Sil Jeon),강순제(Soon Che Kang) 한국복식학회 2013 服飾 Vol.63 No.5

본 연구는 통일신라 복식의 중요한 자료로 이용 되고 있는 흥덕 왕 복식제도에 대해 원전에 근거하 여 수정 제안한 내용과 선행연구에서 일부 언급된 바 있으나 반영되지 않았던 내용을 되짚어 확인함으로써, 이러한 내용들이 이후의 출간 저서에서는 재고되기를 기대하는 데에 의의를 두고 있다· 본 연구에서 논의되었던 4두품녀 帶의 소재에 대해, 조선 중종대의 정덕본과 중종 이후에 간행 된 주자본의 원전 내용이 서로 달라 그 내용을 비 교 분석한 결과, 정덕 본 내용에 보다 신빙성이 있었음을 확인하였다· 그리고 4두 품 남녀의 只用 품목이 다른 계급에 비해 현저히 높은 비율로 나타나고 있는 것에 대해서는 추후의 연구에서 논의 하고자 한다.

한국근대소설의 여성복식에 나타난 문화현상 분석

전현실(Hyun Sil Jeon),홍나영(Na Young Hong) 한국복식학회 2011 服飾 Vol.61 No.6

This study is based on the periodical discourse of women and their costumes, described in modern novels that were published from late 1890s to the 1930s. New cultural phenomena emerged among Korean women in the period of modernization. In particular, rapid increase of jobs for women and preference for western female body shape are very noticeable phenomena that can be observed in novels of the 1930s. In addition, the symbolic meanings of female costumes are variously described in modern novels according to the periodical and spatial environment and jobs for women. The symbolic meanings are organized as ``Trophysm, Expression of sexuality, Liberation from male-dominated society, Symbolic difference between rural and urban areas, Vanity, Decadence, Mechanism tending to hide and Change of values``. And women`s costumes kept changing in the boundary of ``Confliction, Coexistence and Harmonization`` of traditional and western costumes. ``Confliction`` phenomenon got emerged in novels published between 1900 and 1910. The resistance on traditional costumes that restricted woman`s life got spread. But western female costumes as a symbol of new culture could not be generalized but accepted as high fashion. ``Coexistence`` phenomenon was appeared in novels of the 1920s. At that time, the modernization for traditional costumes by female students was emerged along with trendy fashion. Also, the frequency of using western fashion items was increased in the Korean society. Therefore, it shows that western costumes in the Korean society became popularized in the coexistence with traditional costumes. ``Harmonization`` phenomenon was emerged in novels of the 1930s. In the novels, the emergence of western female costumes, personal preference items, and westernized hair style implies that western costumes were absorbed into the Korean society that had kept traditional costumes.

발해 건국 초기 관복에 대한 소고

전현실(Hyun Sil Jeon),강순제(Soon Che Kang) 한국복식학회 2007 服飾 Vol.57 No.2

발해와 신라의 복식 비교 연구

전현실(Hyun Sil Jeon),유송옥(Song Ok Ryu) 한국복식학회 2000 服飾 Vol.50 No.6

As the result of the study of this thesis, the costume of Palhae and Shilla shows the many similarity. 1. The two conturies introduced the system of four-colored official uniform. This official uniforms are BokDoo(복두), DanLyung(團領) and Dae(帶). DanLyung of Palhae are GyulGoPo(결고포), leather belt and that of Shilla are GyulGoPo, YuLanPo(유란포), KwaDae(과대), Similary BokDoo shows the long Gak(脚) in back. 2. Yu(유) and Ko(고), the native costumes have worn even after the period of the three countries. 3. The two countries wore DanLyung. A man in Palhae wore GyulGoPo(결고포), leather belt and a man in Shilla wore GyulGoPo, YuLanPo(유란포), KwaDae(과대). 4. A woman in Palhae wore SangEui(上衣), Sang(裳), JikLyung(直領) one by one. And over Sang wrapped PoBaekDae(布帛帶) and covered the shoulder by UnGyun(雲肩). A woman in Shilla wore SangEui, Sang, PoBaekDea one by one and covered the shoulder by Pyo(표). 5. The two countries put on Rib(笠)and similary shoes. Rib insists of MoChe(帽體), ChaYang(遮陽) and can classify the estate by decoration. A man wore Wha(靴), Li(履) and a woman wore KoDooLi(高頭履). This similarity is the result by the cultural interchange between Palhae and Shilla. There are the five reasons. Interchange by the envoy`s visit, Interchange through Shillado(新羅道), Interchange in T`ang Dynasty, Interchange in Japan, Interchange of Buddhist culture. By the cultural interchange between Palhae(渤海) and Shilla(新羅), the shape of costume is similary. The meaning of this similarity of costume equals to the similarity of culture. We will approval Palhae is the co-subject of Korean history with Shilla and will name as The period of NamBukKuk(南北國時代) from the late 7th century to the early 10th century in the academy of the history of Korean Costume.

대당대일본과의 교류관계를 통해 본 발해의 복식문화 연구

전현실(Jeon Hyun-Sil),강순제(Kang Soon-Che) 한국복식학회 2005 服飾 Vol.55 No.4

This study is consider·ed about the relation or costume among Parhae, ancient Japan and Tang and the culture of this time commonly was influenced by Tang;s culture. The recorded items, which were exchanged from Parhae to Tang and ancient Japan, are the pelt of marten, seal, bear and tiger skin or Ammowhaha(암모화) Gu(구) and so on. Other items from Tang and ancient Japan to Parhae are various clothes and material like silk and so on. This Parhae's clothes made with leather obtained through hunting were the main product of Parhae and had been greatly famous in Tang and ancient Japan. At that time, Tang and ancient Japan had been only dependent on the agricultural life but had not been accustomed to the hunting life, and thereupon, the people in Tang and Nara Era had difficulties to get leather clothes. Accordingly, the leather products stood for the rich, and the people who purchased the leather products from Parhae were recognized as the rich. On the other hand, The prince and the royal family in Parhae were dispatched to Tang as Sooktwui(숙위). They paid a tribute to Tang and In return for it, Tang gave to Sookwui as well as to Parhae's envoys various items and clothes such as Po(포), belt(대), gold and silver Eodae(어대) and textile like a type of silk. These clothes were considered as the formal uniform like Kwanbok(관복) of Parhae. Specially, the time when Sookwui was sent to Tang rot-responded with the time when Tang gave formal uniform to Parhae's envoys. Therefore, we can confirm that the sending of Sookwui influenced to form uniform system of Parhae. In this exchange relation, there were several duplicated items showed, for example Po(포)-belt(대), Eui set(의일습), Eoeui(어의), Jobok(조복), Go(고). These items in Parhae were appeared in process of exchanging from Tang to Japan and from Tang to Parhae. At that time, the exchanges between Tang and Parhae were frequently active much more than those between Tang and Japan, and the acceptance of the culture from Tang was easier in Parhae than Japan in consideration of the geographical location. Therefore, those clothes could be understood as the items already used in Parhae and affected from Tang. These items in Parhae were appeared in process of exchanging from Tang to Japan and from Japan to Parhae. As a result, it is expected that the costumes, which Parhae took from Japan, are the same as those of Tang.

용해(龍海)발해 왕실고분 출토 유물에 관한 고찰

전현실(Hyun Sil Jeon),강순제(Soon Che Kang) 한국복식학회 2011 服飾 Vol.61 No.10

This study is about the costume relics that were excavated from M10 of the 6th site, M13 and M14 of the 8th site among all the Runghai(龍海) ancient tomb sites that were known as the royal family`s tombs of Balhae, which were built from the late 8th century to the early 9th century. These costume relics were also introduced in the academic journal of Chinese archaeology(考古) 6 in 2009. The summary of the results that focused on finding features of the costume relics and its meaning were as follows: 1. Male and female statues, both of which were excavated from the Runghai ancient tomb sites, had the shape and composition of the government official`s costumes such as the Danryeong(團領), Bokdu(복頭), and Gwadae(鍋帶). The female`s hairstyle and accessories were quite similar to other costume relics of Balhae. In particular, the male statues wearing the Danryeong and Bokdu were considered as the normal figures of government officials of Balhaeafter the mid 8th century. 2. The female statue wearing the male attire is considered as a maid, and we can confirm that women dressing up like a man was a popular trend in Tang(唐), and this trend was introduced to Balhae. 3. The back flap(垂脚) of Bokdu that the male statue is wearing in M10 of the 6th site, has a shape that has not been found in the ancient relics of both Balhae and Tang. Therefore, it is considered as a unique shape of Bokdu of Balhae. However, it needs to be observed more and discussed in the future. 4. In regards to the Gwadae, the outside of the Gwadae is decorated with jade and has an embossed carving that is gold inside. The Gwadae of the Runghaisites has a unique design and it is distinguished from other ancient relics. 5. The gold trefoil crown and the leather conical hat that were found in M14 of the 8th site can be seen as the basic composition of official`s hats in ancient Korea. Also, the motif of the gold trefoil is closely related to Anthemion that is often seen in the relics of the Three Kingdom period. Thus, we can assume according to this important finding that the style of ancient Korea official`s hats came from either the king or a royal family of Balhae after the mid 8th century.

대외교류에서 나타난 발해(渤海)의 의료(衣料) 고찰 -대당(對唐),대일(對日) 관계를 중심으로-

전현실 ( Hyun Sil Jeon ) 한국고대학회 2004 先史와 古代 Vol.21 No.-

渤海유물을 기초로 한 韓國傳統紋樣DB 구축과 디자인 개발

全炫室(JEON Hyun-sil) 고구려발해학회 2009 고구려발해연구 Vol.34 No.-

현재까지 우리나라의 전통 문양과 관련된 선행 연구에서는 원시시대부터 조선시대까지의 건축(기와, 문양전 등), 도자기(토기), 벽화, 공예품, 직물 등에 나타난 문양을 살펴보고, 이를 다양한 방식으로 응용할 수 있는 방안에 대해 제시하고 있으나 발해 시대에 관한 내용은 배제되고 있음을 파악할 수 있었다. 물론 발해 역사에 대한 심도 깊은 연구가 계속 활발히 진행되고는 있으나 연구 방향을 발해의 유물에 나타난 문양에 초점을 맞추어 발해의 문양을 우리나라의 전통 문양으로 유입시키는 것도 발해 문화의 정체성을 찾을 수 있는 중요한 작업이라고 생각된다. 따라서 그 하나의 방법으로, 본 연구자는 2008년 1∼2월에 걸쳐 서울대학교 박물관, 東京大學綜合硏究博物館소장 유물을 촬영하고 延邊大學渤海史硏究所에서 제공한 발해사 관련 문헌 자료 22권 및 관련 도록 등에서 발췌한 287점의 유물 이미지를 수집하였다. 그 중 문양의 형태가 비교적 명확하고 응용이 용이한 110점의 유물 이미지를 대상으로 Adobe illustrator 프로그램을 이용하여 도식화하였고, 도식화한 문양 모티브는 Adobe photoshop 프로그램을 통한 디자인 전개 과정을 통해 이를 현대적 감각의 디자인으로 문양화시켰다. 이후 디자인된 문양들을 실용화시키기 위한 방안으로 DTP 시스템을 이용하여 직물 패턴으로 응용했다. 또한 본 연구에서 제작된 도식화한 모티브들을 파일 형태로 저장하여 데이터베이스화함으로써 이후 다각도의 디자인 개발 등에 발해 문양을 이용한 다양한 방식의 접근이 가능할 수 있을 것으로 기대된다.