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김민자(Min Ja Kim),송수원(Su Youn Song) 한국복식학회 1999 服飾 Vol.42 No.-
Mannerism style evolved from the Renaissance style, adopting the concept of grace as the ideal beauty. Having its ground on Neoplationism, the main goal of mannerism art was the realization of the invisible beauty over reality. Mannerism style in dress flourished in the sixteenth century court society, when courtly manners and courtly grace became the most important qualities in social relationship. Courtiers thought that courtly grace, the ideal of beauty, could be realized in the cultured and studied elegance. Mannerism style in dress evolved from the process of transforming and manipulating the Renaissance look for the abstract ideal of beauty. The clothes of Mannerism style were against the natural movement of the human body. There was a tendency of refining and polishing the whole clothing and various technical skills were experimented on the mannerism style. The outstanding elements of this tendency can be found in the details like ruffs, fathingale, padding, slashing, puffing, and etc. Mannerism intended to reconstruct the human body artificially to express courtly grace and novelty. During that process, the new pose, `figura serpentinata`, which is a bizarre, convoluted pose with full of flexibility, was created. The expression of human body became more slender, with elongated legs, a torso with a long neck and a tiny head. This tendency of distorting the natural body forms were reflected in the formal characteristics of Mannerism dress style, which is geometrical abstraction, unnatural elongation, complex disposition and control with perfect ease.
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