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손미희(Mi Hee Shon),임영자(Young Ja Lim) 한국복식학회 1997 服飾 Vol.32 No.-
A history of man is the history that men have governed women with the thought that men are superior to women by the dualistic way of thinking called men / women, culture / nature, reason / emotion, spirit / body, and light / dark. The former has used to explain the instumental character, the later the expressive character. On the basis of this dualsm, men have oppressed women`s position. It had to take long time that women challenge the sex distinction. insist on their rights, and accept the social recognition. It was in 20 centry that the franchise was granted to women and women`s organizations were formed. In this study, feminism characteristics of the comtemporary fashion, were investigated through the dualism way of approach. Feminists have applied the fashion as the mass media to assert their rights. Feminists have chosen the masculinity instead of the femininity and this feminism fashion became a major cause characterizing 20th century contemporary fashion. The purpose of this study is to analyze the influence made by feminism on the contemporary fashion. The movement in the dress reform has the historic background from the costumes for the class and sex to the costumes for women`s right and freedom. The feminism in the arts emphasizes the importance of the difference between men and women, and does not conceal the difference. In the post-modernism and feminism, by the second feminists such as C. Sherman and B. Kruger, the visual media which is accepted post-modernism and post-structurism destroys a fixed idea and deconstructs the existing established concept. The instrumental character is closely related to the liberal feminism. Feminists have the hostility against the fashion due to acknowledging that the fashion has treated as sexual instrument. Therefore feminists have chosen the masculine look instead of the femininity and tried to free themselves from the men`s oppression. The expressive character is the opposite concept to the instrumental character and is related to the radical feminism that emphasizes the women`s sex. The expressive character in the contemporary fashion expresses the elegance, sexy and glamour that emphasizes the femininity, and the materials such as ruffles, bows, frill, silk, chiffon and organza were used as items that emphasizes the expressive character. The synthetic character is a type of idea and unites the instrumental character and the expressive character. This can be also told as the coexistence of double-faced value and two conflicting elements can be added through the dialectrical process. The fashion expressed by the synthetic character can simultaneously feel the men and women`s meaning as the type combining two features by expressing the bisexuality. This fashion with the synthetic character is expressed in fashion by the design transformation, joint ownership of the opposite sex of both items and dressing method. From J. Derrida`s philosophic point of view, the deconstructive character had a concern to the alienated others and found a new break-through in the arts. Recently through the expression of deconstruction, the deconstructive elements such as the mixed use of texts, the criticism against the subject, the rise of alienated others, and the escape from phallogocentrism are represented in fashion. As the means to express the deconstructive character in fashion, the destructive materials, designs and dressing methods are used. The three influences made by the feminist thought on the contemporary fashion investigated : first, the introduction of the fashion with contemporary meaning, second, the antifashion, third, the gender confusion.
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Post modern - Feminism 의 문화현상과 패션
손미희(Mi Hee Shon) 한국복식학회 1999 服飾 Vol.46 No.-
The bisexuality, deconstructivity, and diversity that are great characteristics on the comtemporary fashion are showed in the fashion collections. The purpose of this paper is to investigate and analyze the influence of these characteristics made by the post modern-feminism fashion through the cultural pattern analysis. The post modern-feminism was analyzed by dividing the cultural pattern into 1) the deconstructivity of androcentrism, 2) the rejection of main current fashion, 3) the coexistence of double-sided value, and 4) the open-minded thought of gender. 1) In the deconstructivity of androcentrism - This characteristic was presented in the costume design that breaks the basic form of the line, color, and quality of the material showing in men`s clothes. 2) By rejecting main current fashion - Subculture style appeared in main current fashion, the boundary of main and anti-main current fashion was vagued, and the phenomena that the identity of subgroup was weakened were showed. 3) In the coexistence of double-sided value - This characteristic was presented in the cross-dressing fashion that cut away women`s slender part and men`s rough part. 4) In the open-minded thought of gender - This tendency was reached an extreme from excessive exposure to design which gives the sexual stimulus. This paper is expected to be helpful to understand the contemporary fashion by treating the cultural category associated with post-modern feminism in relation to contemporary fashion and to establish the direction of 21 century fashion.
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