남녀대학생의 라이프 스타일과 한복의 평가기준에 관한 연구

곽태기(Tai Gi Kwak),남미우(Mi Woo Nam) 한국복식학회 2002 服飾 Vol.52 No.4

The purpose of this study was to investigate the relationship between lifestyle and the evaluative criteria of the Korean traditional costume. Hanbok and saenghwal hanbok. The questionnaires were administered to 291 (men: 102, Women: 189) university students in Seoul. Data were analysed by factor analysis, correlation coefficient, t-test. The results were as follows: 1) Factor analysis was used to determine the dimensions of the evaluative criteria of Hanbok, Saenghwal Hanbok and life style characteristics. The evaluative criteria dimensions were found to be different according to Hanbok, Saenghwal Hanbok. 2) In Hanbok, evaluative criteria were classified into comfort & easy care, prestige, design, fashion, suitability to yourself. 3) In Saenghwal Hanbok, evaluative criteria were classified into prestige, ease of care, design, appropriateness, brand. 4) The life style characteristics were classified into independence, activism, conservatism, and materialism. 5) There were the significant relationships between life style factor and clothing evaluative criteria. Especially for design in Hanbok and Saenghwal Hanbok was negative relationship with conservatism and positive relationship with activism, materialism, and independence.

혁명적 변화에 나타난 NEW FASHION 의 발생 및 특징에 관한 연구

곽태기(Tai Gi Kwak) 한국복식학회 2001 服飾 Vol.51 No.1

Particular historic events such as revolution and wars have given rise to fashion. Luxurious costume representative of the aristocratic culture since the French Revolution was changed into popular look with the collapse of the royal regime. With the restoration of the royal regime by Napoleon, rapid changes associated with the reemergence of the costume of aristocratic brought an opportunity for the revolutionary fashion of bringing about new fashion in the fashion field. Especially, the New Look presented by Christian Dior in 1947 shortly after the Second World War would be the typical style of revolutionary fashion. Accordingly, this study attempted to analyze the characteristics of new fashion regarding how new fashion occurred and developed in changes in revolutionary fashion after the Revolution and the War, in conjunction with the zeitgeist(time split) of rapid social changes. The ultimate purpose of this study was find out the significance of fashion as to how and why fashion changed in relation to the factors of changes in fashion in the history and create new future fashion by reinterpreting new aesthetic consciousness about the characteristic of new fashion found in changes in revolutionary fashion.

중국, 일본, 한국의 오리엔탈리즘패션에 나타난 토탈패션(Total Fashion)에 관한 연구

곽태기(Tai Gi Kwak),김은정(Eun Jung Kim) 한국복식학회 2002 服飾 Vol.52 No.5

As modern fashion trends show oriental motif since the transition of post-modernism, a number of great fashion designers such as Givenchy and Jean-Paul Gautier applied the concept of Orientalism to their fashion design. Total fashion is a trend in which make-up, hair-style, and accessories, together with clothing itself are considered a complete fashion as a whole, and sometimes appeals much to consumers. Given that the previous studies on Orientalism have focused only on clothing, this research aims at examining Orientalism with a total fashion approach to simultaneously study make-up, hair-style, accessories, and clothing, and showing that traditional oriental beauty is expressed by total fashion in which the past appeared again through the process of creative application. We analyzed the Orientalism total fashion from 1990 through 2001 and summarized the national differences among these countries in the following. First, China has a uniformed clothing, make-up, and hair-style as shown its traditional play, KyungKeuk and traditional costume, Chipao. Second, Japanese unique traditional costume has been passed on through its traditional costume, Kimono, and traditional play, Kabuki. Finally, in Korea, make-up, hair-style and the design of the traditional costume, Hanbok, as appeared in Myindo(means a picture of a beauty) painted in the Chosun Era are applied and reappeared without much change. It is advised to note that the Orientalism fashion to be discussed in this study is limited to China, Japan, and Korea in Asia.

디지털 의류(Digital Clothing)의 시대적 개발 경향 연구

곽태기(Tai Gi Kwak) 한국복식학회 2009 服飾 Vol.59 No.4

현대 패션에 나타난 프리다 칼로 패션 스타일에 관한 연구

오은경(Eun Kyung Oh),곽태기(Tai Gi Kwak) 한국복식학회 2011 服飾 Vol.61 No.6

Post-Modern Multiculturalism is speading in many ways and other cultural interest has led to the Latin American culture, which has steadily appeared as the main fashion concept of the international collection. Frida Kahlo(1907-1954), a representative of Latin American culture and a Mexican female surrealistic painter, who gives us some inspiration for contemporary fashion design. The purpose of this study is to have a correct understanding of and research on Latin American culture and to expand the expression of fashion design. In the process, this article examines the costume of Mexico belong to the Indio culture which had been regarded as the Other for a long time and understands Frida Kahlo`s fashion style: Tehuanas costume and her masculine style. The Tehuanas costume is a traditional style of the city, Tehuantepec, located in the southeast of Mexico, which is characterized by colorful floral patterns and a long skirt. Three fashion concepts were derived from her fashion style: tradition & modern, love & farewell, and masculine & feminine. The scope of this study investigates the Haute Couture and the Pret-?-porter women`s wear collections and photos from 1998 to 2010 in Europe, USA and South America. From classifying the collected photos into each concept, three styles such as ethnic, romantic and androgynous style were derived. These fashion styles were analyzed through the formative elements of dress, color, silhouette, pattern, material and clothing construction in order to figure out how costumes of other cultures influenced on contemporary fashion. As a design inspiration, Frida Kahlo extends her influence into innerwear, accessories and hairstyles, as well as women`s wear. These inspirations emerge steadily from the past and far into the future as an expression of a fashion design concept.

프리다 칼로 회화 작품에 나타난 패션 컨셉 표현에 관한 연구

오은경(Eun Kyung Oh),곽태기(Tai Gi Kwak) 한국복식학회 2010 服飾 Vol.60 No.7

패션 일러스트레이션의 패션 상품화에 관한 연구

이미정(Mi Jung Lee),곽태기(Tai Gi Kwak) 한국복식학회 2010 服飾 Vol.60 No.4

융[Jung]의 아니마[Anima] 원형에 따른 남성 뷰티스타일 연구

정혜경(Hye Kyung Chung),곽태기(Tai Gi Kwak) 한국복식학회 2011 服飾 Vol.61 No.3

The traditional masculinity has been gradually diversified towards the 21th century due to a new social environment. Men embrace his feminine side with heightened aesthetic sense using cosmetic products for better skin, hair, and nails. This diversification of male image and his beauty style proves the addition of feminity to masculinity. C. G. Jung felt that we are all really bisexual in nature. The anima is the female aspect present in the collective unconscious of men and it is the archetype through which we communicate with the collective unconscious generally, and it is important to get into touch with it for self-realization. This study analyzes subconscious desire based on the anima archetype in the collective unconscious of men through the diversity of the gender identity shown in men`s cosmetic advertisements, and therefore it aim to help developing a marketing strategy of male beauty industry in the future. For this purpose, it conducted an empirical analysis of male beauty style in cosmetic advertisements through the Jungian anima theory. The conclusion of this study is as follows: First, gender identity represented in cosmetic advertisements was typified as Retrosexual, Ubersexual, Metrosexual, Cross sexual. Second, the anima archetype stimulates feminity in male beauty style. Cross sexual type has the highest feminine tendency. Third, range of utilization of cosmetic products is articulated with the diverse gender identity. Cross sexual type is most similar to the female beauty style. This feminization of male beauty style is the external expression of collective unconscious and affords human being to reach self-realization.

융(Jung)의 아니무스(Animus) 원형에 따른 여성 메이크업·헤어스타일 연구

정혜경(Hye Kyung Chung),곽태기(Tai Gi Kwak) 한국복식학회 2011 服飾 Vol.61 No.6

The traditional feminity has gradually been diversified in the 21th century due to a change in the society. This diversification of women`s images and styles is derived from the addition of masculinity to feminity. C. G. Jung insist that human being is bisexual in nature. Animus is the male aspect in the women`s collective unconscious and it is the archetype through which we generally communicate with the collective unconscious. It is also important to get into touch with the collective unconscious for self-realization. This study analyzes subconscious desires based on the Animus archetype in the collective unconscious of women through the diversity of the gender identity shown in cosmetic advertisements. Therefore this study aims to suggest a marketing strategy fot the women`s beauty industry in the future. For this purpose, this study conducts an empirical analysis of women`s make-up and hair style in cosmetic advertisements through the Jungian Animus theory. The conclusion of this study is as follows: First, gender identity represented in cosmetic advertisements was classified into Mother/Wife, Hetaira, Mediale and Amazon. Second, the Animus archetype stimulates masculinity in women`s make-up and hair style. Third, range of utilization of cosmetic products is articulated with the diverse gender identity. This masculinization of women`s beauty style is the external expression of collective unconscious and affords human being to reach self-realization.

디지털아트에 의한 패션일러스트레이션의 소프트웨어 미학 분석

오은경(Eun Kyung Oh),곽태기(Tai Gi Kwak) 한국복식학회 2010 服飾 Vol.60 No.3