朝鮮時代 女子 內外用 쓰개類에 關한 硏究

강태임,이정수 안성산업대학교 2002 論文集 Vol.33 No.-

A dress style of ceratin country has a close relationship with a culture. It develops and changes continuously according to the social environment such as politics, economy, religion and social system. Thus, we can say that a dress style intensively shows the culture of the country. Covering outfit, which was used for female had developed under the circumstance of Confucianism. In Chosun Dynasty, there was a concept of distinction between sexes, whose ideology was Confucianism. Woman must wear Covering outfit when she goes out. Since Covering outfit had been disappeared after the civilization, it would be one of the dress style which was extremely influenced by the change of the social system. Chosun Dynasty was established based on the social system and ideology of Korea Dynasty. Zu-Ja Hak induced at the last period Korea Dynasty influenced the Chosun's Confucianism which penetrated people's life and thinking. By the compulsory request of the social system, women had to wear Covering outfit to hide face. According to the social position and the class, the usage extent of Covering outfit was different. It could be meaningful to arrange types and the basic structure of Covering outfit in Chosun Dynasty and to rediscover peculiar beauty of Korean culture. This research has performed based on the existing remains and records. We hope it can be helpful to make people understand what is Covering outfit and precise theory will be established by discovering historical records regarding 'Chun-ui' and 'Covering Skirt'.

刺繡紋樣의 素材에 對한 小考 : 李朝時代를 中心으로

姜太姙 안성산업대학교 1977 論文集 Vol.9 No.-

佛敎 各 宗團에서 着用한고 있는 法服과 그 象徵性에 관한 연구

강태임 안성산업대학교 1994 論文集 Vol.26 No.-

The purpose of this study to analize priest's robe in Buddhism, which is one of the most influencial religious in Korea, from the viewpoint of robe culture. Buddism, which was introduced into Korea in the age of Acient Three Kingdoms by way of China, has been not only a Korean cultureal basis but also developed into Buddhism peculiar to Korean characteristics. While the study on Buddhism which was rooted in our life style has been centered on the conceptual, historical, and religious aspects, the inquiry dealing with ritual and institutional aspects leaves something to be desired, with only exception of the study on Buddhist Costume since late 1970s. The robes worned by the administrator of rites have significant meanings as divine absoluteness and religious symbolism as well as religious robes distinguished from general costume. It is evient that the characteristics among buddhist orders have become distinctly differentiated as the doctrines and social phenomena changes. This study reconsiders the form and meaning of priest's robes in current three Buddist orders, that is, Chogyejong, Chontaejong. Considering that Korea Buddhism, distinct from that of India, was settled with the influences of China Buddhism, it can be said that the current from of priest's robes reflect peculiarity of not only Buddhism but also other religious like Taoism, Confucianism, and popular beliefs. It is studied in this context how the color, drawing and sign appeared in priest's robes are mutually connected in philosophical and religious aspects. All this is made up in six chapters. Chapter 1 mentions the purpose, scope and mothod of this study. Chapter 2 analyze the history of Buddhism and characteristics of Buddhism orders. Chapter 3 analyzes vairous robe in each priest's(Gasa, Jangsam. etc) Chapter 4 deals with each robe in three buddhism orders(Chogyejong, Taegojong, Chontaejong) Chapter 5 analyzes the meaning of the color, drawing and sign appeared in robes. Chapter 6 reaches to conclusion of this study. This study couldn't have enough access to robes to robes owing to their character of unpopularity. Therefore, further study on the symbolism in robes would be necessary on the basis of philosophical aspects and relationship with other religions.

李朝時代 女子 저고리에 관한 硏究

姜太妊 안성산업대학교 1983 論文集 Vol.15 No.-

The upper garment of Korean women, Jugori as the most fundamental traditional clothes, has gone through the process of changes from the mode of ancient costume to the nowaday's modern style. The ancient style of clothes is originated from KWANDUI belonging to the inhabitants of northern territory of Korea. And it is quite different from Chinese clothes in lineage. However, this unique mode of clothes has been much influenced by the Chinese culture and also by the climate, tradition and originality of Korean penisula. The oldest sample for the data of Jugori in nowaday is on the remains of Yi Dynasty, and this sample for data provides all the particulars of the pattern of Jugori. The tendency of shortening of Jugori had been continued even in Yi Dynasty, and at the end of Dynasty, the clothes was shortened that the women felt inconvenient wearing it in the status of the shortened Jugori which was even hardly cover the breasts. The tendency was not caused by the foreign culture or customs, but it seemed to be suite with fashion mode of the time. But, this tendency of Jugori was terminated by the initial time of epoch of modernization induced from the western civilization, and after 1920s and 1930s Jugori become a longer tendency. This is a sign of revival of practical use and rationalization of Jugori. All these are made up 5 chapters. Chapter I is an introduction that explains the general survey and approach method. Chapter 2 narrates the influence of the Chinese culture to the Yi Dynasty at that age through the booklet survey. Chapter 3 deals with the transformation of patter of Jugorik of Yi Dynasty through the oldest sample survey. Chapter 4 descrives the color policy of cloth of Yi Dynasty and chapter 5 is conclusion part that explains the way to improve the life of cloth as a costume peculiar to the Korea, in fields of beauty and utility.

매듭工藝에 關한 硏究 : 傳承매듭의 形態別 技法을 中心으로

姜太妊 안성산업대학교 1980 論文集 Vol.12 No.-

Macrame, which has attainal on important prominence among the modern textide art, is devidel into "Classical Knot". This paper is premarily concerned with the "Classical Knot" Macrame has numerous possibilities which can be developed. There are no special implemerts necessary, everyone, not only experts, can take part in the originality of this textile art. The perfect form and design of mouldingis one of the many aspects of macrame. There has been little literature written concerning the siptemization of the elementary "Basic Knot." A Knot has been utilized by many people in the making of many of the practical and functional necessities of life. This paper establishes a systematic procedure for for the use of the "Basic Knot". This paper will cover the following; 1. The characteristics of the various kinds of Macrame. 2. The classification and arrangement of the phraseology of Macrame. 3. The technic of traditional Macrame.

李朝時代 女人의 內外用 쓰개類에 대한 考察

姜太妊 안성산업대학교 1988 論文集 Vol.20 No.-

“Su Gye" (Head dresses to hide faces) is a "KEAN MO" such as "JAN GWAN" "HWA GWAN" JOK DU RI" or anything that can be worn on the head like "NA CHANG UI" "SU GYE CHI MA" CHEON UL. Those are the products of the basic ethics of women society in CHOSEON dynasty. The basic ethics are the confucian 3 duties and 5 ethical rules and then they restrained women, forced them to be confined in the boundary of their gones on the ground of discriminating between 'men and women' from former rules. Thus they made the 'Men and Women law' in the results. Some kind of covering faces with cloth was deviced. "NA WOL" is a kind of scarf that courtly and aristocratic women used to hide their faces when going out door and it is "NEO WOOL". Common class women used "CHANG UI" instead of "NA WOL" which was more complicated in structure and it resembled "DOO RUJ MA GI". "SU GUE CHI MA" was similar to ordinary skit in its form and aristocratic women wore ot instead of "NA WOL" for it was much simpler. "CHEON UI" was usually had liner or was stuffed with cotton and it was mostly used by common people for protection against cold. These kinds of "SU GUE" for hiding faces changed in forms or even disappeared eith its change of social rule and fall of CHOSEON dynasty. These "SU GUE" are already gone gut through studying the social rule, institution prohibiting certain clothing, manners and customes of women. I try to arrange the course of handdown structural method, form and material. I hope through this stud we can refind beauty and peculiarity of Korean people and revive that beauty of peculiarity and tradition by changing or remodelling in modern sense.

우리나라 傳統刺繡에 관한 硏究

姜太妊 안성산업대학교 1989 論文集 Vol.21 No.-

Embroidery started with the most practical motive and has developed into various forms in accordance with each purpose. Korean Embroidery was under the influence of China Continent Culture. For all this influence of continent, out geographical environment and nationalit and finally has established a firm basis. Embroidery is divided into Home Embroidery and Palace Embroidery. The former was done by ladies at home as a hobby and latter by specialists in the palace. Both of them have common characteristic of feminine delicacy and gracefulness. Naturalism prevailed in Korean embroidery as in other arts. Animals and plants were employed as the objects of description, and actual description of the objects was emphasized. Naturalistic factor still remains, and yet the embroiderers began to avoid creation the works originated from fixed idea. Instead they saw the objects with new viewpoint and their works were based on the inspiration obtained from the objects. Gradually individuality of each artist appears on the surface of his work and consequently you can sense mature artistic quality there. The artist realize this quality through his own individualistic eyes which catches the detail reality instead of external appearance. This inspiration obtained through the individualistic eyes becomes closer to the real object, more expressive and elevated. Two main streams of embroidery have established each tradition and still keep on developing, one is Home Embroidery which has been done by ladies at home as a hobby, the other is creative Embroidery which has been done by specialized embroiderers. The quality of embroidery derived from this study on modern Korean Embroidery, insist that embroidery should not be included in the crafts as a part of plastic art, instead it should be independent as an art and develop as p pure embroidery as well as a craft cmbroidery. As all forms of industries modernizes and the living environment changes fast people ghve great nostalgia and concern for the traditional craft as well as for the new things so that embroidery as a traditional craft is required. I sincerely hope many people will pay more attention to Embroidery so that they can devote themselves to this society by simultaneous development of Embroidery.

李朝時代 女子裝身具에 대한 硏究 : 노리개를 中心으로

姜太妊 안성산업대학교 1984 論文集 Vol.16 No.-

This thesis attempted to study on the patterns of ornament, specially reference to the shape and historical aspects in the Yi Dynasty. With creative aesthetic minds, human beings have experienced a consistent longing for somethings new and better through the human history. Ornament is the product of the human result those culture activity. Human efforts has found expression in the various kinds and shapes of women's ornaments, which were based on and produced after reflection of their lives concerning food, clothing and shelter. These ornaments concerning around our ancestor's lives, which were produced by their wisdom in their own way, satisfied not only the needs Since the ornament were the results of a frank expression of feeling about their lives. So we can find many patterns developed on the various subject matters, such as flowers, insects, long life animals which are familiar to us. Those familiar subjects in nature expressed the human's hope and wish for example riches and honors, wealth and rank, many son, happiness, health and long life. These symbols of nature were widely used in the products of various ornaments, and though the simple beauty of the ornamental products, we can freshly feel the harmony between nature and human beings. Through the elaborate work careful trying, strapped tassels and the beautiful colors of these women's ornaments, we can easily imagine the wisdom of life the elegant way of living and the aesthetic values of our ancestors. In the point of archaeological view, the study of ornament of our ancestors must be continue for the coming generations.

朝鮮時代 服飾紋樣에 대한 考察

姜太妊 안성산업대학교 1985 論文集 Vol.17 No.-

From the begining of the culture human and patterns have always been together and both are inseparably related to each other. Especially the patterns are one of the most important basic factor to the dress and ornaments. But norvadays in the street of Korean cities we cannot find easily the patterns traditional and native to Korea. In origin, Koreans are an artistic people expressing their innate nature in painting, ceramic ware, handcraft, etc.... This thesis aims to search reasonable cocenter measures for progressive our own patterns all this in made up 5 parts. 1st is an introduction, the purpose, method and scope of study. 2nd part deals with the background of the Yi-dynasty, special reference to the women's dress culture of the period. 3rd part narrates briefly the origin and growth process of patterns. 4th part analyses the construction and classification of the patterns. 5th part reach to a conclusion. Through the study, I found the facts that contens of textile patterns were generally symbolic fortunes rather than aesthics, and the main contents of the fortunes were about the earthly life. And I came to the conclusion that the designs of clothes were more influenced by Chinese culture and the subtlety of the ancestor. Also there are supplication for the happiness of life in the decorations.

開花期의 女子 服飾에 對한 小考 : 저고리의 形態變遷을 中心으로

姜太妊 안성산업대학교 1981 論文集 Vol.13 No.-

우리나라 역사의 흐름에 있어서 개화기라 하면 세계의 격동기에 발맞추어 쇄국의 장막을 헤치고 우리보다 이미 근대화의 대열에 한발먼저 집입한 일본에 문호를 개방하기 시작하면서 부터라고 말 할 수 있겠다. 이 시대에 있어서의 국민 사상은 산,구의 대립과 개화와 보수의 대립, 독립과 군대의 대립등 분열과 갈등이 확대되고 갑신정변, 동학난 등이 연이어 일어나고 갑오경장이라는 사회전반에 걸친 일대개혁의 바람이 근대화의 첫걸음을 내딛게 되는 것이다. 이로부터 한일합방, 삼일운동, 1945년의 민족해방, 1950년의 6.25전쟁으로 이어지는 이 기간은 우리 민족의 격동기요, 수난기로서 정치, 경제, 사회, 문화 등 각 분야에 급격한 변화가 일어났는바 복식 또한 많은 변화가 있었던 시기로 이 기간의 여자복식 그 중에서도 저고리를 중심으로 하여 고찰하여 보고자 한다.