한국금관의 재구성을 통한 장신구 연구 : 브로치를 중심으로 = (A) study on the jewelry by re-analyzing Korean gold crown : focused on brooches

다국어 초록 (Multilingual Abstract)

ABSTRACT

A Study on the Jewelry by re-analyzing Korean Gold Crown
- Focuses on brooches -

Lee, Hye-Young
Advisor : Prof. Kim, Jung-pil
Department of Art
Graduate School of Chosun University




Contemporary ornaments have a very broad spectrum, unlike the past ornaments, which have function and aesthetics. There are various kinds of ornaments, such as wearable ornaments, plastic art ornaments, and commercially mass produced ornaments. There are many similarities between contemporary jewelry and Three Countries’ Gold Crowns. Gold Crowns have their unique forms and aesthetic sense since The Three Countries’ period. They are objects that have various symbols of culture, society, and religion of that time. They represent Korean crafts and Korean craftsmanship.
This study is based on the possibility to indicate the right course of ornaments in the present and in the future through the study of cultural heritage. The author wants to pass on the spirit of the Korean culture and sublimate it to an art form.
This study is to discover the significance of the Korean culture and essential ornaments of the past to mainstream art. The popularity of foreign products take away the significants of Korean culture and ornaments. Today’s society prefers foreign products to Korean products because many people believe it is superior.
This study starts with the origins of the Korean Gold Crown. It is inquired into the forms and symbols to be analyzed into the materials and methods.
On study of brooch, I looked through the general idea and origins of ornaments, the concept of brooches, and the process of changes and assortment.
The origin of the Korean Gold Crown started from a peaked triangle shaped hat, to ‘Joe-Woo-Gwan’ (feather decorated) and ‘Joe-Ik-Gwan’ (wing shaped). People at that time expressed their belief, religion, and philosophies through the form of the Korean Gold Crowns.
There are various forms and symbolic meanings in the Korean Gold Crowns and altogether, there is a form of a circle. A circle has aesthetic value and symbolic meanings. There are many expressions on the formation of the circle, however it can be put together as absolute perfection.
The symbolism of the circle appears uniquely in myths, customs, religions, cultures and others. These symbols connote to immortality and infinity.
Circle has been sacred to humans. Psychologically, the circle has been very meaningful from the beginning of expressions to the present as a mysterious motive. I want to put the essence of the aesthetic symbol’s aspect from the gold crown along with the symbolism of the circle into my work. Through this process I developed and analyzed my work together.
The materials used and the techniques are the background of my work. The structure and the symbolism of the circle are studied in detail and my work is created through formative analysis.

Through this thesis, I intend to create a new understanding on aesthetic value and superiority in Korean Gold Crown. I want to develop the vague and generalized viewpoints on the Korean culture into a more concrete form, and to indicate the various possibilities of to contemporary craft.
Through adaptation of tradition and the contemporary, connoted philosophies and aspects on the original spirit, helped me to create my work.

목차 (Table of Contents)

• 목 차
• Abstract
• 제 1 장. 서론 1
• 제1절. 연구의 목적 및 의의 1
• 제2절. 연구의 내용 및 방법 2
• 제 2 장. 한국금관의 고찰 4
• 제1절. 한국금관의 조형(造形)과 상징성(象徵性) 4
• 1. 한국의 관(冠)과 관모(冠帽) 4
• 가. 관과 관모의 기원 4
• 나. 문헌에서의 관과 관모 5
• 다. 고분벽화에서의 관과 관모 7
• 2. 한국금관의 조형 11
• 가. 고구려 12
• 나. 백제 16
• 다. 가야 25
• 라. 신라 30
• 3. 한국금관의 상징성 50
• 가. 고구려 50
• 나. 백제 52
• 다. 신라 55
• 4. 한국금관의 상징성에 나타난 원 64
• 제2절. 한국금관의 재료와 제작기법 67
• 1. 한국금관의 재료 67
• 2. 한국금관의 제작기법 68
• 제 3 장. 브로치에 관한 고찰 71
• 제1절. 장신구의 개념과 기원 71
• 1. 장신구의 개념 71
• 2. 장신구의 기원 71
• 제2절. 브로치의 개념과 변천과정 74
• 1. 브로치의 개념과 기원 74
• 2. 브로치의 변천과정 75
• 가. 서양 브로치 75
• 나. 한국 브로치 89
• 제3절. 브로치의 분류 93
• 1. 형태별 분류 93
• 가. 자연적 형태 94
• 나. 기하학적 형태 95
• 다. 추상적 형태 97
• 라. 상징적 형태 99
• 2. 잠금장치별 분류 102
• 제 4 장. 연구 작품 분석 104
• 제1절. 재료와 기법적 특성 104
• 1. 금속재료 104
• 가. 금 105
• 나. 은 106
• 다. 동 107
• 2. 기법적 특성 107
• 가. 성형 108
• 나. 표면장식 109
• 제2절. 조형적 특성 113
• 1. 배경과 구조 113
• 가. 배경 113
• 나. 구조와 상징성 113
• 2. 조형 분석 121
• 가. 작품분석-브로치 123
• 나. 작품분석-브로치를 위한벽면조형 153
• 제 5 장. 결론 156
• 참고문헌 159