재단각도 변화에 따른 오그림에 관한 연구 - 소매산둘레선상의 각도를 중심으로 - = Transactions : A Study on Easing Contraction made by different angles - About angles on the sleeve cap curve line -

다국어 초록 (Multilingual Abstract)

An investigation made of the easing contraction ratio according to sewing conditions (eased seam angle; 0˚20˚30˚45˚60˚70˚90˚, stitch density; 38 stitches/3cm(N1.0), 26 stitches/ 3cm(N1.5), 19 stitches/3cm(N2.0), 14 stitches/3cm(N2.5), 12 stitches/3cm(N3.0), thread; sp 60` s/2) by lockstitch industrial sewing machine with shirring foot. The results obstained were as follows: 1. The lower the stitch density, the higher the easing contraction ratio. 2. The easing contraction ratio at 0˚and 90˚were lower than bias angles (20˚, 30˚, 45˚, 60˚, 70˚). 3. As the results of visual test, the maximum easing conditions were Fl -0˚·20˚·30˚·45˚·-12 stitches/3cm(N3.0), 60˚·70˚·90˚-14 stitches/3cm(N2.5), F2 -0˚·20˚·30˚·60˚·70˚·90˚-19 stitches/ 3cm(N2.0), 45` -14 stitches/3cm(N2.5), and F3 -0˚·20˚·30˚·45˚·60˚·70˚·90˚-l.9 stitches/3cm (N2.0). 4. Approximately easing contraction ratio was obtained as 2.0% (N1.0)∼10.2% (N3.0) in Fl, 6.7% (Nl.0)∼15.7% (N2.0) in F2, and 5.2% (Nl.O)∼12.1% (N2.0) in F3, according to different angles on the sleeve cap curve line. 5. As a resuts of SPSS PC^＋ statistics analysis, it confirmed the relations which were observed between easing contration ratio and stitch density, and easing contraction ratio was correlated with bending properties.