2000년대 전·후 중국의 복식도덕성 변화 비교에 관한 연구 = A comparative study on the change of dress morality in China before & after the 2000s

국문 초록 (Abstract)

본 연구는 1949년 이후 지속적인 변화와 발전을 보여주고 있는 현대 중국 복식을 도덕성 측면에서 고찰하였다. 중국은 1978년 개혁개방 이후 빠른 속도로 발전했으며, 2000년대부터는 세계화 흐름에 동참하게 되었다. 이러한 과정에서 외부와의 활발한 문화접촉은 중국의 전통적 도덕관념에 많은 변화를 제공하였고 사회문화적 맥락에서 중국 복식에도 많은 영향을 주기 시작하면서 일반 중국인의 복식도덕성의 개념과 인식에도 변화가 나타났다. 2000년대는‘한 자녀 갖기 운동’으로 태어난 아이들이 성인이 되어 사회에 진출하기 시작한 시기이다. 이들은 디즈니의 캐릭터와 더불어 애니메이션과 NBA 스포츠를 즐겨보면서 성장한 세대이며 자기들이 원하는 옷차림을 하며 간섭을 거부하고 자신의 가치를 뽐내는 세대적 특성을 지녔다. 경제적 측면에서 중국은 질적·양적으로 성장했으며, 2008년 베이징 올림픽을 개최하면서 사회문화적인 발전을 확인하였다. 이러한 분위기 속에서 복식도덕성의 의미에도 변화가 있었음을 추정 할 수 있다.
이에 본 연구자는 복식도덕성 변화의 흐름과 그 원인의 본질에 대한 궁금증을 가지면서 2000년대 전·후의 중국 사회문화적 변화 속에서 중국인의 복식도덕성에 미친 영향이 무엇인지 분석하는 것으로 연구를 진행하였다.
본 연구의 진행은 복식도덕성의 세부적인 판단의 기준이 되는 범주를 구성하였다. 그리고 도덕성 평가 판단에 영향을 미치는 요인을 탐색하였다. 구체적으로 2000년대 전·후의 중국의 사회문화적 맥락이 중국인의 복식도덕성에 어떠한 영향을 미치고 있는지를 분석하였다. 본 연구의 범위는 중국 대도시의 번화가에서 쉽게 만날 수 있는, 유행에 민감하고 시대적 특성을 가지는 중국여성의 복식스타일이다. 시간적 범위는 1949년부터 2019년까지이며, 이를 2000년을 기준으로 전·후로 나누어 구분하였다.
본 연구는 문헌연구를 중심으로 진행되었으며, 시각적인 정보는 패션잡지에 실린 일반인 스트리트 뷰 사진과 웨이보(微博), 위챗(微信) 등 관련 웹사이트를 참조하였다.
제1장에서는 시대의 흐름에 따른 사회문화적 맥락 속에서 중국인이 지각하는 복식도덕성에 대한 변화 양상을 살피기 위한 .연구 배경과 목적과연구의 범위와 연구목적을 제시하였다. 제2장에서는 이론적 배경을 고찰하는 것으로 도덕성과 2000년 전·후 사회문화적 특성과 복식도덕성의 개념과 특성을 분석하였다. 복식도덕성에 대한 이론적 고찰을 바탕으로 복식도덕성의 판단 기준이 되는 구성요인을 도출하였다. 제3장에서는 1949년부터 1999년까지의 기간 동안 중국 복식의 변화 양상을 스트리트복식을 대상으로 복식도덕성의 하위요인별로 살펴보고, 이에 영향을 미쳤던 사회문화적 맥락을 분석하였다. 제4장에서는 2000년대 이후 중국 복식에 나타난 변화를 스트리트 복식을 대상으로 복식도덕성의 하위요인 별로 살펴보았으며, 이에 영향을 미쳤던 사회문화적 맥락을 분석하였다. 제5장에서는 3장과 4장에서 논의한 내용을 바탕으로 사회문화적 맥락에서 복식도덕성의 구성요인의 변화 양상을 분석하였다. 제6장에서는 연구결과의 요약과 함께 연구의 한계 및 향후 연구들을 위한 제언을 하였다. 본 연구의 한계점으로 1949년 이후 중국 복식만을 연구 대상으로 하였고, 건국 이전의 상황과 연계된 전통적 사상과 현대의 변화된 가치관에 따른 복식도덕성의 변화를 연구 범위에서 제외하였다. 또한 복식도덕성의 이해는 복식 주체인 소비자를 떼어놓고는 생각할 수 없으나 본 연구는 실증적 연구방법으로써 직접 중국 대도시의 번화가에서 연구자가 직접 촬영한 자료를 바탕으로 복식도덕성을 분석했어야 함에도 불구하고 문헌연구에만 의존하였다. 실제 도덕성 판단에 대한 통찰이 부족하다는점을 밝힌다. 향후 연구에서는 전문가 인터뷰와 일반인을 대상으로 한 사례연구를 진행한다면 보다 더 깊이 있는 연구 결과를 얻을 수 있을 것이다.
본 연구는 중국인의 복식도덕성과 미적 의식의 변화를 볼 수 있는 동시에 중국의 현대화 과정에서 나타난 복식도덕성의 변화에 영향을 미치는 사회문화적 요인을 도출하는 것을 연구의 목적으로 하며, 이러한 연구를 통해 중국의 복식도덕성의 패러다임을 이해하고, 중국 복식의 발전방향을 예측하는 후속 연구의 기초 자료가 되기를 기대한다.

다국어 초록 (Multilingual Abstract)

This study looked at modern Chinese doubles in terms of morality, showing continuous change and development since 1949. China has developed rapidly since its reform and opening in 1978, and has joined the globalization trend since the 2000s. In this process, active cultural contacts with the outside world provided many changes to China's traditional morality and began to affect Chinese doubles in sociocultural contexts, resulting in changes in the concept and perception of the doubles morality of ordinary Chinese people. The 2000s were a time when children born into the "One Child Movement" began to enter society as adults. These are generations who grew up enjoying animation and NBA sports, along with Disney characters. They have the generational characteristics of being dressed as they want, refusing to interfere, and showing off their On the economic front, China grew qualitatively and quantitatively, and confirmed its sociocultural development when it hosted the 2008 Beijing Olympics. In this atmosphere, we can assume that there has also been a change in the meaning of doubles morality.
Thus, the researcher carried out the research by analyzing what the influence of the Chinese on the double morality amid the social and cultural changes in China, both before and after the 2000s, while questioning the nature of the change in the nature of the Chinese people.
The progress of this study discussed morality from the point of view of desire, and formed a category that serves as the basis for detailed judgement of double morality. and explored the factors that influence moral assessment judgments. Specifically, the social and cultural contexts of China before and after the 2000s were analyzed to see how the Chinese people's doubles morality was affected. The scope of this study is the doubles style of Chinese people in their 20s and 30s who are sensitive to trends and have the characteristics of the times, easily encountered in the bustling streets of China's metropolis. The time range is from 1949 to 2019, which was divided into two periods, one before and the other as of 2000.
This study was centered on literature research, and visual information was referred to the public street view photos in the double-book magazine and related websites such as Weibo and WeChat.
Chapter 1 presented research scope and research problems to examine the pattern of changes in the doubles morality in which the Chinese are perceived in the social and cultural context according to the trend of the times. In Chapter 2, the concept and characteristics of morality and doubles morality were analyzed by examining the theoretical background. Based on the theoretical consideration of doubles morality, the detailed components of doubles morality are
derived. Chapter 3 looked at the pattern of changes in Chinese doubles during the period from 1949 to 1999 by subcomponents of doubles morality in street doubles, and analyzed the sociocultural contexts that had affected them. In Chapter 4, the changes shown in Chinese doubles since the 2000s were examined by subcomponents of doubles morality in street doubles, and the social and cultural contexts that influenced them were analyzed. In Chapter 5, based on the discussion discussed in Chapters 3 and 4, we analyzed the changes in the components of doubles morality in the social and cultural context. Chapter 6 provides a summary of the research results, as well as suggestions for the limitations of the research and future studies.
This study aims to derive sociocultural factors that influence the change of doubles morality as shown in China's modernization process, while at the same time seeing the change of doubles morality and aesthetic consciousness of the Chinese people, and through these studies we hope to be the basic data of follow-up research to understand the paradigm of doubles morality in China and to predict the development direction of Chinese doubles.

목차 (Table of Contents)

• I. 서 론 ···················································································································1
• 1. 연구 배경과 목적 ························································································1
• 2. 연구의 범위와 방법 ····················································································3
• Ⅱ. 이론적 배경 ··································································································5
• 1. 2000년대 전·후 사희문화적 특성 ··························································5
• 2. 도덕성 고찰 ··································································································7
• 3. 복식도덕성 고찰 ························································································10
• Ⅲ. 2000년대 이전 복식도덕성 고찰 (1949년~1999년) ························20
• 1. 정숙성 ··········································································································20
• 2. 유행성 ··········································································································25
• 3. 사치성 ··········································································································33
• 4. 기능성 ··········································································································38
• Ⅳ. 2000년대 이후 복식도덕성 고찰 (2000년~2019년) ·······················43
• 1. 정숙성 ··········································································································43
• 2. 유행성 ··········································································································48
• 3. 사치성 ··········································································································51
• 4. 기능성 ··········································································································55
• Ⅴ. 사회문화적 맥락의 변화에서 본 복식도덕성 ······························62
• 1. 정숙성 의미 변화 ····················································································62
• 2. 유행성 의미 변화 ····················································································63
• 3. 사치성 의미 변화 ····················································································64
• 4. 기능성 의미 변화 ····················································································64
• VI. 결 론 ···············································································································66
• 1. 복식도덕성에 대한 사회문화적 맥락에서의 변화 요인 ····················66
• 2. 복식도덕성 변화 비교 특성 ····································································69
• 3. 연구의 한계 및 제안 ················································································71
• 참고문헌 ············································································································73
• Abstract ·············································································································78