18세기 남자 출토복식에 관한 연구 : 남오성 묘 출토복식을 중심으로 = A study on excavated men's costume of the 18th century : with the case study on the costume from the tomb of Oh-sung Nam

다국어 초록 (Multilingual Abstract)

This study examines excavated men's costume of the 18th century in the Joseon dynasty. Excavated costume was actually worn by the dead person that it is a precious resource for the study of the costume at the time and the history of it.
In the 18th century the philosophy of Shilhak(實學) prevailed the society and demanded social reform. Along with this trend Shilhak functioned as a factor for changes in the clothing system. The change resulted in emphasizing practical viewpoint for costume. Therefore simple and practical items like Chang-ui and Jungchimak became popular in general and Sim-ui and Dopo became popular among Confucian scholars.
The kinds of excavated costume of the 18th century are Chang-ui and Sim-ui, Dopo, Cheollik, Dapho, Ju-ui, Jeogory, and Sapokbaji. The category of Chan-ui is composed of Danryoung, Deachang-ui, Jungchimak, and Sochang-ui. Different from the excavated costume of the early Joseon dynasty, Aekju-um and Jikryoung were not found among those of the 18th century.
The excavated items in the order of frequency are Jungchimak, Sochang-ui, Deachang-ui, Danryoung, Dopo, and Cheollik. The fact that Jungchimak and Sochang-uiare frequently found in good number suggests that they were worn popular as daily clothes.
The order of wearing Seup-ui in the 18th century is also different from the early period. Earlier it was worn in the order of Danryoung, Dapho and Cheollik. Later there were two ways of wearing it with different order: first, in the order of Danryoung - (Sim-ui) - Deachang-ui - Jungchimak - Sochang-ui, and Hansam(Jeoksam) or Sim-ui - Jungchimak - Sochang-ui and Jeoksam with Danryoung and Sim-ui as Sangbok(上服) wearing Chang-ui in place of Cheollik.
There are several characteristics of the 18rh century costume found from the case study of costume from the tomb of Oh-sung Nam(1643-1712). Danryoung was made of double layers that used to be single earlier with larger sleeves of Durisomae and with Mu (gusset) fixed on the back in trapezoid shape. Deachang-ui had large Kalgit (pointed collar), large Durisomae, Mu on the back and a long back slit. Jungchimak had the same shape of sleeves as Deachang-ui and side slits without any Mu. Sochang-ui was in the same shape as Jungchimak with narrower sleeves. The shape of pants was fixed as Sapokbaji of narrower width than the earlier ones.
Through the study of excavated costume, some characteristics of the 18th century costume were revealed. I wish this study could devote to understanding traditional costume and could be a useful source for reproduction or creative designing as well.

목차 (Table of Contents)

• 목차
• Ⅰ. 서론 = 1
• 1. 연구목적 = 1
• 2. 연구방법 및 범위 = 4
• Ⅱ. 출토복식의 개념과 발굴현황 = 5
• 1. 출토복식의 개념과 역할 = 5
• 2. 출토복식의 발굴현황 = 8
• Ⅲ. 18세기 남자 출토복식의 종류와 형태 = 16
• 1. 출토복식의 종류 = 16
• 2. 출토복식의 품목별 형태 고찰 = 23
• (1) 포류 = 23
• (2) 저고리류 = 32
• (3) 바지류 = 36
• Ⅳ. 남오성 묘 출토복식의 고찰 = 40
• 1. 유물수습 및 남오성의 생애 = 40
• 2. 출토복식의 종류와 특징 = 42
• (1) 포류 = 42
• (2) 저고리류 = 76
• (3) 바지류 = 78
• (4) 기타 = 82
• Ⅴ. 18세기 남자 출토복식의 유형 및 구성요소 분석 = 86
• 1. 포류 = 86
• 2. 저고리류 = 94
• 3. 바지류 = 95
• Ⅵ. 결론 = 97
• 참고문헌 = 101
• ABSTRACT = 104