Cosmetics and toiletries : development, production, and use

목차 (Table of Contents)

• CONTENTS
• Preface = xxi
• Chapter 1 The Historical Development of cosmetic Science / P. Busch = 1
• Bibliography = 7
• Chapter 2 Legislation concerning Cometics and toiletries / R. Schnakig ; W. Umbach = 9
• 1. Development and Organization = 9
• 2. The food and utility Article Law = 10
• 3. The EEC Directives on Cosmetics and Toiletries = 12
• 4. The Cosmetics Decree = 13
• 5. Supplementary Regulations and Voluntary Agreements = 14
• Bibliography = 15
• Chapter 3 Areas of Application for Cosmetics and Toiletries = 17
• 1. The Skin / H. M$${\ddot o}$$ller = 17
• 1.1 Structure of the Sking = 18
• 1.1.1 Histological Layers = 18
• 1.1.2 Vascular System = 21
• 1.1.3 Nervous System = 21
• 1.1.4 Skin Appendages = 21
• 1.2 Funcctions of the Sking = 22
• 2. The Hair / P. Busch ; D. Hollenberg = 24
• 2.1 Composition and Structure of the Hair = 25
• 2.1.1 The Living Part of the Hair = 25
• 2.1.2 The Keratinized Regions of the hair = 28
• 2.2 Ethnic Diversities = 29
• 2.3 Anomalies of the Hair = 29
• 3. The Oral Cavity / K. D. Hellwege = 31
• 3.1 Topography of the Oral Cavity(Cavumoris) = 31
• 3.2 Oral Tissue Structures = 32
• 3.2.1 Teeth(Dentes) and the Solid Tissues of the Tooth = 32
• 3.2.2 Periodontium(Parodntium) = 35
• 3.2.3 Mucous Membranc eof the Mouth(Mucosa) = 36
• 3.3 Salivary Glands, Saliva = 36
• 3.4 The Oral Environment = 37
• Bibliography = 38
• Chapter 4 Active Ingredients in Cosmetics, Their Effects and Efficacy-A General Overview / W. Umbach = 39
• 1. Functions and Goals of Cosmetics and Active Ingredient Cosmetics = 40
• 2. Effects and Efficacy = 40
• 3. Active Ingredients of Cosmetics and Toiletries = 41
• 4. Proof of Cosmetic Effects = 42
• 5. Examples of Efficacy = 43
• 6. Effects and Side Effects = 44
• 7. Effects of Cosmetics and Toiletries on Personality = 45
• 8. Outlook = 46
• Bibliography = 46
• Chapter 5 Cosmetic Preparations = 49
• 1. Cosmetic Preparations for Skin Care = 49
• 1.1 Skin Washing and Cleansing Preparations / W. Schneider ; G. Thor = 49
• 1.1.1 Composition of Bar Soap = 50
• 1.1.2 Composition of Bar syndets = 53
• 1.1.3 Other Skin Cleansing Preparations = 53
• 1.1.4 Production of Soaps and Syndets = 54
• 1.1.5 Application Aspects of Bar Soaps and Syndets = 57
• 1.2 Bath Preparations / L. Forsthoff = 58
• 1.2.1 Composition = 58
• Basic Ingredients = 59
• Special Active Ingredients = 62
• Formulation Examples = 63
• 1.2.2 Production = 63
• 1.2.3 Application and Effect = 64
• 1.2.4 Evaluation = 65
• 1.3 Skin Care Preparations / K. P. Wittern = 66
• 1.3.1 Different Types of Skin Care Preparations = 66
• 1.3.2 Emulsions = 66
• Basics = 66
• Composition of an Emulsion = 70
• Formulation Examples = 73
• 1.3.3 Other Forms of Skin Care Preparations = 74
• 1.3.4 Effects of Skin Care Preparations = 77
• 1.4 Decorative Body Care Preparations(Make-up) / L. Motitschke = 77
• 1.4.1 Facial Make-up(General) = 78
• Composition = 78
• Production and Packaging = 80
• Application = 81
• Evaluation = 81
• 1.4.2 Eye Care Preparations = 81
• Composition = 82
• Formulation Examples = 82
• Production and Packaging = 84
• Application and Effect = 84
• Evaluation = 85
• 1.4.3 Lip Care Preparations = 85
• Composition = 85
• Formulation Examples = 86
• Production = 87
• Packaging = 88
• Application and Effect = 88
• Evaluation = 88
• 1.4.4 Nail Care Products = 88
• Structure of the Nail = 88
• Composition = 89
• Formulation Examples = 90
• Production = 91
• Packaging = 91
• Application = 92
• Evaluation = 92
• 1.5 Feminine Hygiene Preparations / V. B$${\ddot o}$$llert ; W. Seidel = 92
• 1.5.1 Composition = 92
• Formulation Examples = 93
• 1.5.2 Application and Effect = 94
• 1.5.3 Evaluation = 94
• 1.6 Poot Care Preparations / A. Curtze ; W. Muth = 94
• 1.6.1 Composition of Cosmetic Foot Care Products = 95
• 1.6.2 Application and Effects of Foot Care Products = 96
• 2. Cosmetics and toiletries with special Effect = 96
• 2.1 Sunscreening Preparations / E. Siemer = 96
• 2.1.1 UV Radiation and its Effects = 97
• Physical Properites = 97
• Effects of UV Radiation on the Skin = 97
• Skin Protection with Sunscreening Agents = 98
• 2.1.2 composition = 99
• Sunscreening Agents = 100
• Sunscreening Preparations = 102
• Formulation Examples = 104
• 2.1.3 Application and Effect = 105
• 2.1.4 Evaluation = 106
• 2.2 Artificial Tanning Preparations / E. Siemer = 106
• 2.2.1 The Principles and Active Ingredients of Artificial Tanning = 107
• 2.2.2 Composition = 107
• Fomulation Examples = 108
• 2.2.3 Application and Effect = 108
• 2.2.4 Evaluation = 108
• 2.3 Depigmentation Preparations / E. Siemer = 109
• 2.3.1 Chemical Principles and Ative Ingredients = 109
• 2.3.2 composition = 109
• Formulation Examples = 109
• 2.3.3 Application and Effect = 109
• 2.3.4 Evaluation = 110
• 2.4 Insect Repellents / P. Finkel = 110
• 2.4.1 Mosquitos and Gnats = 110
• 2.4.2 Effects of Repellents = 111
• 2.4.3 Composition of Repellents = 111
• 2.4.4 Application of Repellents = 114
• 2.5 Deodorants / H. Bremer ; W. Klein = 115
• 2.5.1 Origin of Body Odor = 115
• 2.5.2 composition of Deodorants = 115
• Active Ingredients = 115
• Auxiliary Substances and Formulation Bases = 117
• Formulation Examples and Forms of Application = 117
• 2.5.3 Production = 119
• 2.5.4 Application and Effect = 120
• Application of Deodorants = 120
• Performance Evaluation = 120
• 2.5.5 Evaluation = 120
• Evaluation Criteria and Methods of Application = 120
• Evaluation Criteria and Methods of Application = 120
• Stability, Analysis = 121
• 2.6 Antiperspirants / H. Bremer = 121
• 2.6.1 Sweat Glands = 121
• 2.6.2 Composition of Antiperspirants = 121
• Formulation Examples = 122
• 2.6.3 Application and Effect = 124
• 2.6.4 Evaluation Methods = 124
• 2.6.5 Evaluation = 124
• 2.7 Preparations for Cleansing and Caring for Blemished skin / E. Siemer = 124
• 2.7.1 Blemished Skin, Symptoms and Causes = 125
• 2.7.2 Composition = 125
• Ingredients of Cleansing Preparations = 126
• Basic Ingredients of Facial Care Preparations = 127
• 2.7.3 Active Ingrdients = 127
• Formulation Examples = 127
• 2.7.4 Evaluation = 128
• 2.8 Hair Removal Preparation - Mechanical and Chemical / J. K$${\ddot o}$$hler ; E. Konrad = 128
• 2.8.1 Mechanical Hair Removal (Epilation) = 128
• Formulation Examples for Depilatory Preparations = 129
• 2.8.2 Chemical Hair Removal (Depilation) = 129
• Active Ingredients = 129
• Formulation Examples = 130
• 2.8.3 Application and Effect = 131
• 2.8.4 Evaluation = 131
• 2.9 Shaving Preparations / A. Pond = 132
• 2.9.1 Preparations for Wet Shaving = 132
• Formulation Examples = 133
• 2.9.2 Preparations for Shaving with an Electric Razor = 134
• Formulation Examples = 134
• 2.9.3 Production and Packaging = 134
• 2.9.4 Application and Effect = 136
• 2.10 Perfumes, Scents and Fragrances / W. H$${\ddot o}$$,/TEX>nig = 136
• 2.10.1 The significance of Our Sense of Smell = 136
• 2.10.2 The Origins and History of Perfumery = 138
• 2.10.3 Fragrances and their Production = 139
• Natural Frangrances = 139
• Synthetic Fragrances = 140
• 2.10.4 Production of colognes and Perfumes = 141
• 2.10.5 Perfume Teminology = 142
• 2.10.6 Scent Families and the Correct Choice = 143
• 2.10.7 Storing Perfumes = 144
• 2.10.8 The Future of Perfumery = 144
• 2.10.9 Evaluation, Consumer Criteria = 145
• 3. Cometic Preparations for Dental, Denture, and Oral Hygiene = 145
• 3.1 Oral Hygiene Preparations / H. Harth ; U. L$$\ddot u$$tke ; W. Rqu ; W. Weinert = 145
• 3.1.1 Compsoition = 146
• Abrasives = 146
• Moisturizing Agents = 147
• Bonding Agents = 147
• Foaming Agents, Surfactants = 147
• Sweeteners = 147
• Preservatives = 147
• Coloring Agents = 148
• Flavoring = 148
• Formulation Examples = 150
• Special Active Ingredients = 151
• Formulation Examples = 151
• 3.1.2 Production = 156
• Batch Production = 156
• Continuous Production = 157
• 3.1.3 Application and Effect = 157
• Application = 157
• Effect - In Vitor and In Vivo Tests = 158
• 3.1.4 Evaluation = 168
• Application Technique / Stability = 167
• Analysis of Oral Hygiene Preparations = 168
• Clinical Tests = 168
• 3.2 Denture Preparations / S. Terlinden = 171
• 3.2.1 Denture Cleansing Preparations = 171
• Materials Used in Dentures = 171
• Deposits and Germ Growht = 171
• Composition = 172
• Production = 174
• Application and Effect = 174
• Evaluation = 175
• 3.2.2 Denture Adhesives = 175
• Composition = 176
• Application = 177
• Effects = 177
• Evaluation = 177
• 4. Cosmetic Preparations for Hair Care = 177
• 4.1 Shampoos / V. B$$\ddot o$$llert ; W. Seidel = 177
• 4.1.1 Compsotion = 178
• Surfactants = 178
• Auxiliary Substances = 182
• Active Ingredients = 184
• Formulation Examples = 184
• 4.1.2 Production = 186
• 4.1.3 Application and Effect = 187
• Cleansing the Scalp and Hair = 187
• Additional Effects on the Scalp and Hair = 187
• 4.1.4 Evaluation = 188
• Evaluating the Results = 188
• Stability Tests = 189
• Chemical Analysis = 189
• 4.2 Hair Care Products / V. B$$\ddot o$$llert ; H. Siemers = 190
• 4.2.1 Composition = 190
• Basic Ingredients = 191
• Emulsifiers = 192
• Auxiliary Agents = 192
• Special Active Ingredients = 192
• Hair Care Preparations that Remain in the Hair = 193
• Hair Care Preparations that are Rinsed Out = 195
• 4.2.2 Production = 195
• 4.2.3 Application and Effect = 197
• Hair Care Preparations that Remain in the Hair = 199
• Hair Care Preparations that Are Rinsed Out = 200
• 4.2.4 Evaluation = 201
• 4.3 Preparations for Hair Shaping / J. K$$\ddot o$$hler ; E. Konrad = 202
• 4.3.1 Fundamental Principles of the Perming Process = 202
• Chemical composition of the Hair = 202
• Water Wave = 203
• Chemical Basis of the Perming Process = 203
• 4.3.2 Composition = 203
• Chemically Active Ingredients = 203
• Auxiliary Substances = 205
• Formulation Examples = 207
• Hair Straightening Products = 207
• 4.3.3 Production = 208
• 4.3.4 Perming Processes = 208
• Hot Wave = 208
• Mild Wave = 208
• Cold Wave = 208
• 4.3.5 Evaluation = 210
• 4.4 Hair Strengthening Products / G. Bechmann ; D. Heeb = 211
• 4.4.1 Setting products = 211
• Liquids = 211
• Foams = 213
• 4.4.2 Hair Sprays = 214
• Composition = 215
• Formulation Examples = 216
• Production = 216
• 4.4.3 Evaluation = 217
• Application Techniques = 218
• Analysis = 219
• Stability = 219
• 4.5 Hair colorants / G. Ghilardi = 219
• 4.5.1 Hair Bleaching Preparations = 220
• The Mechanism of Hair Bleaching = 220
• Composition = 220
• Application = 221
• Skin compatibility = 222
• 4.5.2 Hair Coloring Preparations = 222
• Temporary hair Colorants = 222
• Semi-Permanent hair Colorants = 223
• Permanent Hair Colorants = 223
• 4.5.3 Self - Oxidizing Dyes = 226
• 4.5.4 Natural Hair Coloring = 226
• 4.5.5 Application = 226
• 4.5.6 Stability and Durability = 226
• 4.5.7 Production = 226
• 4.5.8 Toxicological Aspects = 227
• Bibliography = 227
• Chapter 6 Menstrual Protection Products = 235
• 1. Historical Development / E. Groening ; K. Siebert ; F. Weinstrauch = 235
• 2. Medical Aspects of Menstruation / E. Groening ; K. Siebert ; F. Weinstrauch = 237
• 3. Intravaginal Protection / E. Groening ; K. Siebert ; F. Weinstrauch = 238
• 3.1 Basic Materials and Components of Tampons = 238
• 3.1.1 The Absorbent Body = 238
• 3.1.2 Sheathing = 238
• 3.1.3 Tampon construction = 238
• 3.1.4 Application Systems = 240
• 3.1.5 Packaging = 241
• 3.2 Production Technology = 241
• 3.2.1 Manufacturing Process = 241
• 3.2.2 Sanitary Production and Quality Control = 242
• 3.3 Tampon Properties = 242
• 3.3.1 Physical Properties / Product Perfomance = 242
• 3.3.2 Biological Properties = 242
• 3.4 Legislation Concerning Tampons = 243
• 4. Extravaginal Protection / N. Leinter ; N. Rink = 243
• 4.1 Product Components and Basic Materials = 243
• 4.1.1 The Absorbent Body = 245
• 4.1.2 Sheathing = 246
• 4.1.3 Adhesive System = 247
• 4.1.4 Specialized Materials in Sanitary Napkins = 248
• 4.2 Production Technology = 248
• 4.2.1 Manufacturing Process = 248
• 4.2.2 Sanitary Production and Quality Control = 250
• 4.3 Product Properties = 251
• 4.3.1 Physical Properties and Product Performance = 251
• 4.3.2 Microbiological Properties = 251
• 4.3.3 Dermatological and Physiological Properties = 252
• 4.3.4 Ecology = 252
• 4.4 Legislation Concerning Sanitary Napkins and Inserts = 253
• Bibliography = 253
• Chapter 7 Natural Cosmetics and Toiletries / C. F$$\ddot u$$hrer = 255
• 1. Definition = 255
• 2. Advantages and Disadvantages of Natural Substances = 256
• 3. Preservation = 257
• 4. Coloring = 259
• 5. Perfuming = 259
• 6. Outlook = 259
• Chapter 8 Perfuming Cosmetic Preparations / A. Boeck ; B Streschnak = 261
• 1. History = 261
• 2. Functions = 262
• 3. Product Groups = 263
• 3.1 Soapns = 263
• 3.2 Creams and Lotions = 263
• 3.3 Aqueous Preparations = 263
• 3.4 Aerosols = 265
• 3.5 Powders, Lip Care, Feminine Hygiene, Sunscreening and Hair Waving Preparations = 265
• 4. Application Techniques = 266
• 4.1 Tasks = 266
• 4.2 Testing Methods = 267
• 5. Fragrance Selection = 268
• 6. Evaluation of Safety of Aroma Chemicals = 269
• Bibliography = 269
• Chapter 9 Preserving Cosmetic Preparations / M. Heinzel with assistance from W. K$$\ddot a$$stner = 271
• 1. Microbiological Spoilage of Cosmetics and Toiletries = 272
• 2. Destructive Organisms in Cosmetics and Toiletries = 274
• 2.1 Organisms Damaging to Preparations = 274
• 2.2 Health - Threatening Organisms = 274
• 3. Preserving Cosmetic Preparations = 277
• 3.1 Microbiological Evaluation of Preservatives = 277
• 3.2 Health risk Evaluation of Preservatives = 278
• Bibliography = 279
• Chapter 10 Compatibility of cosmetic Preparations = 281
• 1. Toxicology / J. Spengler = 281
• 1.1 The Necessity of Toxicological Tests = 281
• 1.1.1 Legal Standards = 281
• 1.1.2 Scientific Justification for Animal Experimentation = 282
• 1.2 Animal Protection - Methods of Replacing and Supplementing Animal Tests = 282
• 1.3 Toxic Effects = 282
• 1.4 Types and Extent of Toxicological Tests = 283
• 1.5 Tests of Cosmetic Ingredients = 284
• 1.5.1 Tests for Local Compatibility = 284
• 1.5.2 Resorption, Metabolism, Excretion = 285
• 1.5.3 Short-Term and Long-Term Toxicity Studies = 286
• 1.5.4 Genotoxic Investigations = 287
• 1.5.5 Reproductive Toxicity Test / Embryotoxicity = 288
• 1.5.6 Tests for Carcinogenic Effects = 288
• 1.6 Testing the Compatibility of Cosmetic Preparations = 289
• 1.7 Evaluation of Toxicological Risk = 290
• 2. Dermatology / G. J. Schmitt = 291
• 2.1 Barrier Function of the Skin = 291
• 2.2 Epidermal Intolerance Reactions = 292
• 2.2.1 Acute Toxic Contact Dermatitis = 293
• 2.2.2 Acute Allergic contact Dermatitis = 293
• 2.2.3 Photodermatitis = 294
• 2.3 Dematological Tests = 294
• 2.3.1 Testing for Acute Toxic Contact Intolerance Reactions = 295
• 2.3.2 Testing for Acute Allergic Contact Intolerance Reactions = 296
• 2.3.3 Testing for Phototoxic Intolerance Reactions = 296
• 2.3.4 Testing for Photoallergic Intolerance Reactions = 297
• 2.3.5 Special Investigation Procedures for Acute Dermal Intolerance Reactions = 297
• 2.3.6 Clinically Controlled Application Testing = 297
• 2.4 The Frequency of Contact Allergic Intolerance Reactions = 298
• Bibliography = 299
• Chapter 11 Packaging Cosmetic Preparations / A. St$$\ddot o$$ffler = 301
• 1. Packaging Requirements and Functions = 301
• 2. Packaging Materials and Containers = 303
• 2.1 Tins and Jars = 304
• 2.2 Bottles and Flacons = 304
• 2.3 Tubes = 305
• 2.4 Stick Applicators = 306
• 2.5 Spray Cans = 306
• 3. Decoration of Cosmetic Packaging = 307
• 4. Future Ecological and Economic Challenges = 309
• Bibliography = 310
• Chapter 12 Quality Assurance / D. Groll = 311
• 1. Quality Control = 311
• 1.1 Raw Material Inspection = 312
• 1.2 Inspection of the Finished Product = 313
• 1.3 Inspection of Containers and Packaging Materials = 313
• 1.4 In-Process-Control = 314
• 1.5 Finished Goods Control = 315
• 1.6 Good Laboratory Practice (GLP), Good Manufacturing Practice (GMP) = 315
• 1.7 Environmental Protection = 316
• 2. Quality Promotion = 316
• 2.1 Works Proposal System = 316
• 2.2 Quality Teams = 317
• Bibliography = 317
• Chapter 13 General Principles of the Technology for the Production of Cosmetics and Toiletries / D. Kl$$\ddot o$$tzer = 319
• 1. Terminology = 319
• 1.1 Technical Methods of Substance Combination = 319
• 1.2 Emulsification Processes = 320
• 1.3 O/W Emulsions, W/O Emulsions = 321
• 2. Mixing and Homogenization Systems = 322
• 2.1 Static and Dynamic Mixers = 322
• 2.2 Agitation Units = 323
• 2.3 Rotor / Stator Homogenizers = 325
• 2.4 High-Pressure Homogenization = 325
• 3. Production Techniques = 326
• 3.1 Comparing "Continuous" and "Discontinuous" = 326
• 3.2 Discontinuous Processes = 327
• 3.3 Continuous Processes = 331
• Bibliography = 335
• Chapter 14 Environmental Aspects / W. Meier = 337
• 1. Ecological Aspects of Household Preparations = 337
• 2. Cosmetic Preparations as Washing and Cleaning Agents - Water Pollution Protection = 339
• 3. Chlorofluorocarbons as Propellants = 340
• Chapter 15 Economic Aspects / H. -H. Fischer = 343
• 1. Number and Size of companies - Employment Figures = 343
• 2. Value of Goods Produced - Importance of the Various Product Groups - Manufacturer Prices = 343
• 3. Foreign Trade Volume - Foreign Trade Balance Most Important Regions of Origin and Destination = 344
• 4. Sales Distribution Channels - Number of Sales Outlets = 347
• 5. Advertising Expenditures - Role of Advertising - Importance of the Various Media = 348
• 6. Consumer Expenditure - Development of Per Captia Consumption and Standard of Living = 349
• 7. Perspectives on the Future = 350
• Bibliography = 350
• Index = 353