일본 아방가르드 패션에 표현된 서구 전통복식의 혼성모방 = Pastiche of Western Traditional Costume in Japanese Avant-Garde Fashion

다국어 초록 (Multilingual Abstract)

As a type of intimate architecture, fashion has always mediated the dialogue between clothes and the body, or fashion and figure. This study seeks to inquire the current aesthetic consciousness of the body and dress in Japanese avant-garde fashion and intends to research the features and meanings in the pastiche of Western sartorial convention in Japanese avant-garde fashion in order to examine the changing aesthetic attitude in postmodern fashion. The study investigates subjects of the fashion collections of the turn of the twenty-first century, when pastiche strategies frequently appeared in Japanese avant-garde fashion, through the methodology of literature research and case analysis. The results of the study are as follows: by developing the strategy of pastiche, Japanese avant-garde fashion exposes the defectiveness of the Western idea of the idealized and standardized body for mass productions, thus freeing design from its traditional confinement to the human body. Drawing on the re-conceptualization of the sartorial convention of Western tradition, Japanese avant-garde fashion designers tend to experiment with extreme exaggeration in form, refusing to subscribe to the traditional Western values built on the balance and symmetry of the body. Through the combination of the past and the present as well as the inner-wear as outerwear strategy, the historical pastiche challenges convention and symbolism, which results in the discord between signifiant and signifie of clothing.

참고문헌 (Reference)

1 양학미, "후기 자본주의 사회의 패션에 나타난혼성모방" 서울대학교 대학원 1999

2 정현숙, "포스트모던 패션에 표현된 페미니즘 연구" (35) : 1997

3 임은혁, "일본 아방가르드 패션의 미학 -몸의 평면화를 중심으로" 한국복식학회 57 (57): 2007

4 임은혁, "몸의 왜곡을 통한 혼성모방" 한국의류학회 33 (33): 511-518, 2009

5 Evans, Caroline, "Women & Fashion:a New Look" Quartet Books 1989

6 Crane, Diana, "The Transformation of the Avant-Garde:the New York Art World 1940-1985" University of Chicago Press 1987

7 Kawamura,Yuniya, "The Japanese Revolution in Paris Fashion.Oxford․" Berg 2004

8 Morris,Bernardine, "The Japanese Challenge to French Fashion"

9 Mitchell,Louise, "The Cutting Edge, Fashion From Japan" Powerhouse Publishing 2005

10 Hodge, Brooke, "Skin + Bones: Parallel Practices in Fashion and Architecture" Thames & Hudson 2006

11 Dresner, Linda, "ReFusing Fashion:Rei Kawakubo" Museum of Contemporary Art Detroit 2008

12 Jameson, Frederic, "Postmodernism or, The Cultural Logic of Last Capitalism" Verso 1991

13 Boyne, Roy, "Postmodernism and Society" McMillan 1990

14 Frisa, Maria Luisa, "Excess:Fashion and the Underground in the 80s" Edizioni Charta 2004

15 Spilker, Kaye Durland, "Breaking the Mode" Skira 2007