XBEACH 모형에 의한 해운대 해수욕장 양빈후의 해빈류 특성 변화

다국어 초록 (Multilingual Abstract)

In this study, to predict the effect of beach nourishment at Haeundae Beach, the waves and wave-induced currents were compared before and after beach nourishment using the XBEACH model. Representative wave conditions were determined for the data observed during 2014 (KHOA). Then, the Hs,max and Hs,1/10 values, and their prevalent directions, were used in the numerical modeling input data. A variable grid system was used for the 5 km × 2.5 km model areas, and irregular waves based on the JONSWAP spectrum were given as incident wave conditions. In the summer season, eastward wave-induced currents were developed along the beach by the incident wave direction. Before the beach nourishment, the maximum speed around the surf zone was 1.2–1.5 m/s in the central zone of the beach, whereas the maximum speed increased to 1.4–1.6 m/s at the same areas when the currents toward Mipo Harbor were blocked as an effect of the groins after the beach nourishment. In the winter season, westward wave-induced currents were developed along the beach by the incident wave direction. After the beach nourishment, the maximum current speed increased slightly around the surf zone in the central area of the beach, and the littoral current speed decreased at the submerged breakwaters located at Dongbaek Island. As a result, after the beach nourishment, the maximum wave-induced currents increased about 10% in the surf zone of the central area of the beach.

참고문헌 (Reference)

1 김권수, "해운대 해빈에서 특정 외력하의 표사이동 특성" 한국항해항만학회 37 (37): 663-671, 2013

2 Delft University of Technology and Deltares, "XBeach Model Description and Manual"

3 Phillips, O.M, "The Dynamics of the Upper Ocean" Cambridge University Press 336-, 1977

4 Kim, C, "Studies on the beach Deformation Mechanism of Haeundae Beach" Pukyong National University 1988

5 Tac, D, "Seasonal Characteristics of Sediment Circulation in Haeundae Beach" Pukyong National University 2008

6 Andrews, D. G, "On Wave-action and Its Relatives" 89 (89): 647-664, 1978

7 Roelvink, D., "Modelling Storm Impacts on Beaches, Dunes and Barrier Islands" 56 : 1133-1152, 2009

8 Ruessink, B. G, "Modeling the Alongshore Current on Barred Beaches" 106 (106): 451-463, 2001

9 BROOF, "Intermediate Report on Beach Monitoring for Coastal Maintenance Projects in Haeundae Beach[1st year]. Busan Regional Office of Oceans and Fisheries" Busan Regional Office of Oceans and Fisheries, Ministry of Oceans and Fisheries 337-, 2013

10 BROOF, "Intermediate Report on Beach Monitoring for Coastal Maintenance Projects in Haeundae Beach" Busan Regional Office of Oceans and Fisheries, Ministry of Oceans and Fisheries 242-, 2014

11 Yoon, E, "Analysis of Sediment Transport using the STA Method and Morphodynamic Model in the Nakdong Estuary" Pukyong National University 2009

12 Andrews, D.G, "An Exact Theory of Nonlinear Waves on a Lagrangian-mean Flow" 89 (89): 609-646, 1978

13 Walstra, D. J, "3D Calculation of Wave-driven Cross Shore Currents" 2000