잡지 『풍화』의 베트남 여성 복식 개혁 논의에 나타난 민족주의와 여성 신체 담론

다국어 초록 (Multilingual Abstract)

This study analyzes the discourse on the revolution in modern Vietnamese women‘s dress in the Vietnamese magazine Phong Hóa, founded in the 1930s. The dress revolution movement, which emerged in Vietnam during the 1930s, centered on womens clothing. However, it was not a grassroots movement initiated by women, but rather a top-down process led by male elites. Nguyen Cat Tuong, the leader of this dress revolution, redesigned the traditional Vietnamese ao dai garment to emphasize curves, according to the dominant Western aesthetic standards of the time. This new style of ao dai is considered one of the earliest examples of Vietnamese womens national dress. The transition of the ao dai from a traditional womens dress to a national costume reflects the cultural shift in Vietnam during the 1930s, which emphasized the interests of the nation and ethnicity. The three-dimensional tailoring technique aimed to showcase curvilinear beauty, but it did so by negating the inherent physical characteristics of Vietnamese women and emphasizing female characteristics under the male gaze. Therefore, the gaze of women was inevitably influenced by the male gaze and national consciousness. In the early twentieth century, the body of a Vietnamese woman wearing a dress was used as a powerful tool for constructing a national identity. It represented the national costume and the body of the state in the political sense, rather than the body of the female subject.