朝鮮時代 異色配色 赤古里의 形態 變化에 관한 硏究 : 出土服飾을 中心으로 = (A) Study on the Shape changes of different color arranged Jogori in Chosun dynasty : Based on the excavated costumes

다국어 초록 (Multilingual Abstract)

This study investigates the shape changes of different color, Gil(길) arranged Joˇgori in more than one part on Kit(깃), Sup(섶), Moo(무), KKeut-Dong(끝동), based on the exhumed Joˇgori among excavated costumes which were found on the process of removing the dead person's body from one place to another.
The range of this study is from Chun-Ju Lee garment for the dead which were exhumed in Kwangju county to An Dong Kim garment for the dead which were found in Ban Wol, and it examined 99 Joˇgori out of 211 which were exhumed between 1450 and 1930.
Different color arranged Joˇgori which were examined in this study seemed to be exhumed only in Seoul, Kyungi Province, Choong-Chung Province, whereas excavated costumes were exhumed all over the country including Seoul, Kyungi Province, Choong Chung Province, Cholla Province, Kyung-Sang Province, etc. Taking this into account, these areas were considered to be taken considerably splendid shape of dress and ornaments, compared with other areas.
Going through Japanese invasion of Korea(1592~1598), a big change appeared in the costumes of Chosun dynasty and it was the length shortening phenomenon of different color arranged Joˇgori.
This study devides exhumed different color arranged Joˇgori into three period respectively, before and after the period which were found big differences in Joˇgori length and examined the changes of the shapes and arranged colors in excavated different color arranged Joˇgori at each period.
First period was from 1450 to the first of 14th century. The second period was from the middle of 17th century to the first of 18th century, and the last third period was from the middle of 18th century to around 1930.
In the first period, the lengths of different color arranged Joˇgori were diverse from 41cm to 83cm and after the Japanese invasion of Korea in 1592 , the lengths of Joˇgori in different color arranged Joˇgori were a little bit shortened by 40-50cm. The length of Joˇgori was extremely shortened in the third period and one of exhumed Joˇgori found in Ban Wol was 17.3cm. The length of Joˇgori was lengthened again 36cm or so aroud 1930.
The Kit(깃) shape of different color arranged Joˇgori had changed from Mokpan Kit to Dangko Kit in the first period and it was continued even after the second period. Dongrae Kit which is the same as the that of these days were found in the end of third period, around 1920-1930.
It is quite strange that different color arrangements were not shown in Kal Kit(칼깃) Joˇgori at all.
When it comes to the form of Moo(무), a ladder Moo and triangle Moo co-existed before the Japanese invasion of Korea in 1592 and those kinds of Moo were changed into the form of Gyut Moo(무) after the that war. Vertically lined Joˇgori in its sides without Moo and the length shortening phenomenon of Joˇgori appeared in that period.
In the first period, the sleeves of Joˇgori were straight lined ones, in which the width of Gin Dong(진동) was the same as that of Soo Gu But after the Japanese invasion of Korea in 1592 the sleeves of Joˇgori were changed into the slanting ones which became narrower and narrower toward Su GU(수구) and the lines of Bae Rae(배래) became curves in the third period.
The width of Kkeut Dong(끝동) was 15cm or so in 15th century and it became narrowed in the third period.
Arranging different colors fashion in Joˇgori was changed before and after the Japanese invasion of Korea in 1592. Before the war, Joˇgori which were arranged different colors in many parts such as Kit(깃), Sup(섶), Moo(무), Kkeut Dong(끝동), Go Reum(고름)were found a lot, but different color arranged parts were lessoned after the war.
In the first period, a ladder and triangle Moo Joˇgori with Mokpan Kit seemed to arrange different colors in more diverse parts than curved Moo Joˇgori.
The second period, after the Japanese invasion of Korea in 1592, different color arranged parts were reduced, compared with the first period. Strange thing is the different color arrangement in Sup(섶), it was common in the first period, disappeared in that period.
In the third period, Gyut Moo(-VT)and Go Reum (~-~t3 )were became bigger than before, embossing its ornamental aspects .
Kumsundan Joˇgoris(금선단 저고리) which were found a lot before the Japanese invasion of Korea in 1592 were not exhumed any more except only one Keumgik(금직) Joˇgori after the war. This also seemed to be affected by social factor, after-effect of the war.

목차 (Table of Contents)

• 목차
• I. 序論 = 1
• 1. 硏究 目的 = 3
• 2. 硏究의 範圍 및 方法 = 4
• 3. 用語 定義 = 4
• II. 朝鮮時代 赤古里 = 6
• 1. 赤古里의 槪觀 = 6
• 2. 朝鮮時代의 異色配色 赤古里 = 7
• 1) 短赤古里 = 7
• 2) 곁마기 = 8
• 3) 回粧赤古里 = 9
• III. 出土服飾의 發掘現況 = 12
• 1. 時期別 發掘現況 = 12
• 1) 1期 (1450∼1600年代 초반) = 12
• 2) 2期 (1600年代 중반∼1700年代 초반)13
• 3) 3期 (1700年代 중반∼1930年 경) = 13
• 2. 地域別 發掘現況 = 15
• IV. 出土된 異色配色 赤古里의 形態와 配色類型 = 18
• 1. 1期 (1450∼1600年代 초반)
• 1) 異色配色 저고리의 부위별 形態 = 20
• 2) 異色配色 저고리의 異色配色 類型 = 27
• 2. 2期 (1600年代 중반∼1700年代 초반) = 32
• 1) 異色配色 저고리의 부위별 形態 = 32
• 2) 異色配色 저고리의 異色配色 類型 = 38
• 3. 3期 (1700年代 중반∼1930年 경) = 41
• 1) 異色配色 저고리의 부위별 形態 = 42
• 2) 異色配色 저고리의 異色配色 類型 = 48
• V. 要約 및 結論 = 56
• 參考文獻 = 62
• 附錄 = 65
• 英文抄錄 = 113