American Women's Adoption of Pants and the Changing Definition of Femininity during World War II

다국어 초록 (Multilingual Abstract)

Articles from The New York Times and magazines including Consumer Digest, Journal of Home Economics, Scholastic, Time and Woman's Home Companion were analyzed in this study and focused on the following research questions: How did the social situation influence American women's adoption of pants during World War II? How were the social opinions of women's adoption of pants? How did American women's adoption of pants and the social opinions on women's pants represent the process of change in the definition of femininity during World War II? Women were encouraged to wear pants in work places because many women had to work in defense industries and farms. Women had to wear pants during the winter to keep warm in order to conserve oil, rubber, and other materials. In addition, wearing men's clothes became a fashion trend among college women during this period. However, practicality was often not the primary thing alone to consider in women's fashion. Femininity was still important in women's fashion. There were criticisms over the women's adoption of pants. Regulations against pants were imposed on women, while there were women who wanted to dress like ladies even at defense industries. An abrupt change in women's gender roles and the increased adoption of trousers aroused social ambivalence about the traditional definition of femininity. Even though many women returned to their homes after the war, the social demand of practicality in women's day-time clothes during the war offered women the experience of comfort and practicality in pants. These experiences contributed to paving the way for more women to adopt pants and helped establishing a new definition of femininity after the war.

참고문헌 (Reference)

1 "Women’s work wear suggested by bureau" The New York Times 10-, 1942

2 "Women’s uniforms set new style" The New York Times 32-, 1941

3 "Women’s slacks criticized" The New York Times 14-, 1942

4 Hawes, E., "Why do you wear what you do?" 69 : 14-15, 1942

5 "Wears boy friend’s suit when he goes off to war" The New York Times 25-, 1942

6 "War plants to sell clothing for women" The New York Times 16-, 1945

7 "War increased bicycle’s popularity among women" The New York Times 16-, 1942

8 "War brings new trends in fashions and accessories" The New York Times 12-, 1942

9 "Urge short skirts to save textiles" The New York Times 31-, 1941

10 Samek, S. M., "Uniformly feminine: The ‘working chic’ of Mainbocher" 20 : 33-44, 1993

11 Litoff, J. B., "U.S. women on the home front in World War II" 57 (57): 349-360, 1994

12 "Trousers no novelty" The New York Times 18-, 1943

13 "The range finder" 40 : 2-, 1942

14 Stolberg, B., "The man behind the Times. in: Highlights in the history of the American press" University of Minnesota Press 362-376, 1954

15 Payne, B., "The history of costume: From ancient Mesopotamia through the twentieth century (2nd ed.)" Harper-Collins Publications Inc. 1992

16 Warner, P., "The Americanization of fashion: Sportswear, the movies and the 1930s. in: Twentieth-century American fashion" Berg 79-98, 2005

17 Commager, H. S., "The American mind: An interpretation of American thought and character since the 1880’s" Yale University Press 1950

18 "Style readjustment seen forced by war" The New York Times 18-, 1941

19 Valentine, E. R., "Slacks: American women take over another masculine garment" The New York Times 16-17, 1942

20 "Sees buying habit shift" The New York Times 24-, 1944

21 "Safe clothes for war workers urged by the women’s bureau" The New York Times 4-, 1942

22 "Pittsburgh girls win right to trousers" The New York Times 14-, 1942

23 "Pants" 39 : 18-19, 1942

24 "New curbs are put on women’s garb" The New York Times 29-, 1943

25 "Hit order to don slacks" The New York Times 13-, 1942

26 "Hairbrush still efficacious" The New York Times 18-, 1944

27 "Girls will be boys" The New York Times 10-, 1940

28 Kennedy, D. M., "Freedom from fear: The American people in depression and war, 1929-1945" Oxford University Press 1999

29 "Ford’s office girls bar slacks, wear frocks “to feel like ladies.”" The New York Times 18-, 1943

30 "First lady views latest farm togs" The New York Times 15-, 1941

31 "Femininity will lead spring styles, showing at Los Angeles predicts" The New York Times 16-, 1942

32 Blake, M., "Fashions in 1943" 35 (35): 73-76, 1943

33 Arnold, R., "Fashion, desire and anxiety: Image and morality in the 20th century" Rutgers University Press 2001

34 Jarett, M. B., "Fashion tips for the busy women. in: Consumer Digest" 7-9, 1941

35 Buckland, S. S., "Fashion as a tool of World War II: A case study supporting the SI Theory" 18 (18): 140-151, 2000

36 "Editors report women are eager to quit jobs for home after war" The New York Times 20-, 1944

37 "Durability and style are the features at opening of new college fashion shop" The New York Times 18-, 1943

38 "Dress men dissent on shorter skirts" The New York Times 20-, 1941

39 Boris, E., "Desirable dress: Rosies, sky girls, and the politics of appearance" 69 : 123-142, 2006

40 "Defense inspires women’s garb: Functionalism guides designers" The New York Times 18-, 1941

41 Meyer, L. D., "Creating G.I. Jane: The regulation of sexuality and sexual behavior in the women’s army corps during World War II" 18 (18): 581-601, 1992

42 "Court bars women in slacks" The New York Times 13-, 1942

43 Kaiser, S. B., "Construction of an SI theory of fashion: Part 1. Ambivalence and change" 13 (13): 172-183, 1995

44 "Colorful styles forecast for war" The New York Times 23-, 1941

45 "College girls in men’s clothing" 9 : 40-42, 1940

46 "Chicago urges to permit slacks" The New York Times 24-, 1943

47 Ewan, S., "Channels of desire: Mass images and the shaping of American consciousness" University of Minnesota Press 1992

48 Foote, S., "Challenging gender symbols. in: Men and women: Dressing the part" Smithsonian Institution Press 144-157, 1989

49 "Boy dates girl: Jam session" 41 : 30-31, 1942

50 "Boston honors China’s first lady following reunion at Wellesley" The New York Times 25-, 1943

51 Evans, S., "Born for liberty: A history of women in America" Free Press Paperbacks 1997

52 Foote, S., "Bloomers" 6 : 1-12, 1980

53 "Be well dressed, it’s safe, U.S. says" The New York Times 26-, 1941

54 "Apparel makers find curbs liberal" The New York Times 34-, 1943

55 Mott, F. L., "A history of American magazines: Sketches of 21 magazines, 1905-1930" Harvard University Press 1968

56 Picken, M. B., "A dictionary of costume and fashion" Dover 1999

57 O’Neill, W. L., "A democracy at war: America’s fight at home & abroad in World War II" Harvard University Press 1993