재단각도 변화에 따른 오그림에 관한 연구 ( 제2보 ) - 소매산높이에 따른 각도변화를 중심으로 - = A Study on Easing contraction made by different angles ( Part 2 ) - About variation of sleeve cap curve lines -

다국어 초록 (Multilingual Abstract)

An investigation made of the variations of angle of bias on the top of the sleeve cap curve line and calculated easing contraction ratio by capheights (A ; A.h.×5/6), B : A.H./4＋4cm, C ; A.H./3, D : A.H./4＋3cm, E ; A.H./4＋2cm, F : A.H./4＋lcm, G ; A.H./4, H : A.H./6, I ; A.H./8), and the effects of easing contraction on the cap curve lines of sleeve A, D, G by easing stitch density with the gathering foot sewing condition - lockstitch industrial machine, stitch density(N1.0 : 38stitches/3cm, N1.5 ; 26stitches/3cm, N2.0 ; 19stitches/3cm, N2.5 ; 14stitches/3cm) The results obtained were as follows 1) The variations of the angle of bias on the top of the sleeve cap curve line by cap heights can be done, according to the angle balance (front ; α-β, back α`-β`) between the angle (front ; α-β, back ; α`-β`) of bias of the two base-lines. 2) The higher cap height, the more higher the calculated easing contraction ratio. 3) The lower the stitch density, the higher easing contraction ratio. 4) The effects of easing contraction was that sleeve G was more than sleeve A, D.