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    1890년대와 1900년대 여성복 재킷 소매 패턴형태연구 = A Study on Women’s Jacket Sleeve Patterns of the 1890s and 1900s

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    https://www.riss.kr/link?id=A104783719

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    다국어 초록 (Multilingual Abstract) kakao i 다국어 번역

    The purpose of this study is to identify changes in the sleeve patterns of women’s jackets from the end of the19th century to the early 20th century. To meet this purpose, we analyzed nine sets of historic sleeve patterns.
    The experimental sleeve patterns were selected from the English costume source books that provided women’scostume patterns from the 1890s and 1900s. These experimental sleeve patterns were drafted on the basis ofthe directions given in the source books. The sleeve lengths, widths, and angles of each sleeve pattern weremeasured. The results of this study showed that the silhouette of the two-piece sleeves of women’s jacketsin the 1890s had a tight fit; further, they had a sharper elbow curve than that of 1900s’ sleeves. The sleevesof the 1890s’ women’s jackets were 6–11 cm shorter or narrower than the sleeves of the 1900s’ jackets. Theunder-sleeve inseam angle of the 1890s’ sleeve was greater than that of the 1900s’ sleeve. The outseam angleof the upper sleeve was greater than the under-sleeve angle of the 1900s’ sleeve pattern. The elbow curve ofthe women’s jacket sleeve pattern appeared to be a sluggish silhouette. This change happened as the outseamangle of the under sleeve was reduced. This shows that the elbow curve silhouette of the women’s jacketsleeves of the 1890s and 1900s has controlled the change in the under-sleeve outseam angle.
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    The purpose of this study is to identify changes in the sleeve patterns of women’s jackets from the end of the19th century to the early 20th century. To meet this purpose, we analyzed nine sets of historic sleeve patterns. The experimental sleeve pa...

    The purpose of this study is to identify changes in the sleeve patterns of women’s jackets from the end of the19th century to the early 20th century. To meet this purpose, we analyzed nine sets of historic sleeve patterns.
    The experimental sleeve patterns were selected from the English costume source books that provided women’scostume patterns from the 1890s and 1900s. These experimental sleeve patterns were drafted on the basis ofthe directions given in the source books. The sleeve lengths, widths, and angles of each sleeve pattern weremeasured. The results of this study showed that the silhouette of the two-piece sleeves of women’s jacketsin the 1890s had a tight fit; further, they had a sharper elbow curve than that of 1900s’ sleeves. The sleevesof the 1890s’ women’s jackets were 6–11 cm shorter or narrower than the sleeves of the 1900s’ jackets. Theunder-sleeve inseam angle of the 1890s’ sleeve was greater than that of the 1900s’ sleeve. The outseam angleof the upper sleeve was greater than the under-sleeve angle of the 1900s’ sleeve pattern. The elbow curve ofthe women’s jacket sleeve pattern appeared to be a sluggish silhouette. This change happened as the outseamangle of the under sleeve was reduced. This shows that the elbow curve silhouette of the women’s jacketsleeves of the 1890s and 1900s has controlled the change in the under-sleeve outseam angle.

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    참고문헌 (Reference)

    1 김인화, "중년 여성의 기성복 재킷 구입실태 및 만족도" 한국의류학회 31 (31): 398-409, 2007

    2 이유경, "기능주의가 여성 스포츠웨어 변천에 미친 영향 -20세기 전반기를 중심으로-" 한국의상디자인학회 12 (12): 43-59, 2010

    3 Goo, M. J., "tudy on the periodicity of fashion focused on the bustle styles" Seoul National University 1988

    4 Baek, Y. J., "Western costume cultural history" Kyeongchunsa 1998

    5 Chung, H. S., "Western costume cultural history" Kyomunsa 1997

    6 Hill, M. H., "The evolution of fashion : Pattern and cut from 1066 to 1930" Batsford 1967

    7 Song, S. O., "The constructive feature of collar in costume" Gyeongsang National University 1998

    8 Choi, Y. J., "The art nouveau fashion in modern fashion trend" Kyungpook National University 1999

    9 Grimble, F., "The Edwardian modiste: 85 authentic patterns with instructions, fashion plates, and period sewing techniques" Lavolta Press 1997

    10 Arnold, J., "Patterns of fashion: Englishwomen’s dresses & their construction" Drama Book 1966

    1 김인화, "중년 여성의 기성복 재킷 구입실태 및 만족도" 한국의류학회 31 (31): 398-409, 2007

    2 이유경, "기능주의가 여성 스포츠웨어 변천에 미친 영향 -20세기 전반기를 중심으로-" 한국의상디자인학회 12 (12): 43-59, 2010

    3 Goo, M. J., "tudy on the periodicity of fashion focused on the bustle styles" Seoul National University 1988

    4 Baek, Y. J., "Western costume cultural history" Kyeongchunsa 1998

    5 Chung, H. S., "Western costume cultural history" Kyomunsa 1997

    6 Hill, M. H., "The evolution of fashion : Pattern and cut from 1066 to 1930" Batsford 1967

    7 Song, S. O., "The constructive feature of collar in costume" Gyeongsang National University 1998

    8 Choi, Y. J., "The art nouveau fashion in modern fashion trend" Kyungpook National University 1999

    9 Grimble, F., "The Edwardian modiste: 85 authentic patterns with instructions, fashion plates, and period sewing techniques" Lavolta Press 1997

    10 Arnold, J., "Patterns of fashion: Englishwomen’s dresses & their construction" Drama Book 1966

    11 Park, S. A., "Historical analysis and construction method of sleeves for women’s dress (from ancient Egypt to the 19th century)(" Sookmyung Women’s University 1982

    12 Park, S. H., "Exaggerated expressions in the 19th-century early modern women’s fashion" Konkuk University 2001

    13 S. Cosbey, "Diversity of Daytime Clothing Styles as a Reflection of Women's Social Role Ambivalence from 1873 through 1912" SAGE Publications 21 (21): 101-119, 2003

    14 Tyrrell, A. V., "Changing trends in fashion : Patterns of the twentieth century, 1900-1970" Batsford 1986

    15 Harris, K., "Authentic Victorian fashion patterns: A complete lady’s wardrobe" Dover Publications 1999

    16 Lee, J. S., "An analytical study of womens jacket pattern and its reproduction: Focusing on the crinoline and bustle styles of the 19th century" Pusan National University 2004

    17 Park, E. S., "A study on the last 19C costume expressed in : Focused on directed by Francis Ford Coppola" 2 (2): 61-82, 2002

    18 Kim, M. S., "A study on the functionate-tendency of the western-type womens costumes in recent times" Sookmyung Women’s University 1983

    19 Lee, Y. S., "A study on 19th century French costume in the film, "Moulin Rouge"" 2 (2): 21-47, 2002

    20 Kim, S. Y., "A study of the pattern for women’s jacket design" Hongik University 1996

    21 Shin, S. O., "A history of costume in the west" Soohaksa 2002

    22 Kim, J. S., "A historical study on the tree-dimensional construction method of bodies for western women’s clothes" Hansung University 2001

    23 Lee, J. J., "A comparison study on Victorian & Edwardian costume style" 4 (4): 59-84, 2004

    24 Harris, K., "59 Authentic turn-of-the-century fashion patterns" Dover Publications 1994

    25 차주은, "19세기 후반 영국 여성복 상의 착용에 따른 인체 실루엣 변화" 복식문화학회 19 (19): 1205-1220, 2011

    26 문명옥, "19세기 소매 패턴에 관한 연구 - 1890년대 여성재킷의 두장 소매를 중심으로 -" 대한가정학회 44 (44): 31-39, 2006

    27 박신미, "1900년대 여성패션의 현대화 양상 고찰" 한국패션디자인학회 10 (10): 115-133, 2010

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    기준연도 WOS-KCI 통합IF(2년) KCIF(2년) KCIF(3년)
    2016 0.76 0.76 0.96
    KCIF(4년) KCIF(5년) 중심성지수(3년) 즉시성지수
    1.02 1.04 1.279 0.17
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