발효쪽 분말염료로 염색한 견직물의 색소 함량이 직물의 색상에 미치는 영향 = Effect of the Amount of Pigment on the Color of Silk Dyed with Fermented Indigo Powder Dye

다국어 초록 (Multilingual Abstract)

This research investigated the relationship between the amount of fixed pigment and the color of silk dyed with three types of fermented indigo powder dye under different temperatures and pH, by reduction or nonreduction method. Amount of fixed pigment was analyzed using the Ultimate 3000 HPLC-DAD instrument and the color of dyed silk was measured using the X-rite spectrocolorimeter. All silk samples dyed by reduction method showed PB color. The amount of indigotin fixation was dependent on the dyeing temperature and pH regardless of the indigotin composition in the dye. Indirubin was less dependent upon the dyeing condition in the reduction dyeing and its fixation was minimum level. Dyeing conditions which can maximize the indigotin fixation were 50 o C/pH 11 and 70 o C/pH 7 conditions in reduction dyeing. Color of silk showed more redness (a*) thus higher PB color when the indigotin fixation was low and indirubin fixation was relatively high. Indirubin fixation was very low with slightly better fixation by nonreduction method. More reddish color was obtained by nonreduction dyeing, and by more alkaline dyebath.

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