조선 후기와 현대의 여자한복 형태 비교 = Delong의 복식형태 분류체계를 적용하여

다국어 초록 (Multilingual Abstract)

The purpose of this study is to investigate difference and likeness on the form in women`s Hanbok between the later Chosun Dynasty and modern times based on Delong`s observing system for `Apparel-Body Construct`. Delong`s framework is composed 5 pairs of contrast word - `Closed or Open`, `Whole or Part`, `Planar Separation or Planar integration`, `Flat or Rounded`, and `Determinate or Indeterminate`. Major findings of this study are as follows. First, the form of women`s Hanbok in later Chosun Dynasty is `Variably Closed`, `Part` and `Rounded`, whereas that in modern is `Open`, `Whole` and `Flat`. Women`s Hanbok of modern is lesser convex, and more open than that of later Chosun Dynasty according to increasing use of transparent textiles. Moreover, in comparison with old style, that of modern has the tendency of perceiving primarily whole feature by organic linkage of parts. Because of loose fit of Jeogori and rigid DongJong etc, characteristic of `Plat` strengthened in modern Hanbok. Secondly, women`s Hanbok in the later Chosun Dynasty and modern has common properties of `Planar Seperation` and `Determinate`. Women`s Hanbok belongs to `Planar Seperation`, because the effect, cognized to figure and ground, can be found between small parts and whole of Jegori, or can be found between the head and face, Jegori and waist band, and Chima and under ware. Further more, it can be classified into `Determinate`, because it use textiles which have no pattern on it or which show a subtle surface effect by texture changing.