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    현대 패션에 표현된 코르셋의 외면화 = Externalization of corset in contemporary fashion

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    https://www.riss.kr/link?id=A99931457

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    다국어 초록 (Multilingual Abstract) kakao i 다국어 번역

    Entering the twentieth century, corsets began to disappear with the tendency of concentrating on slim bodies and youth. As corsets proceeded to be discarded, they began to be internalized as a means of controlling the body; ‘muscular corset’ takes hold. However, the internalized corset increasingly appears to be externalized again in contemporary fashion. This study investigates how natural body is reconstructed as socio-cultural image drawing on the relationship between the signifier and signified of corset. As for the research methodology this study conducts literature survey to investigate the internalization of corset. This study proceeds to examine the subjects of fashion collections from 1980 to 2010 and samples the outfits which represent the externalization of corset through case analysis. Through the discussion of the study, the relationship of signifier and signified in the externalization of corset is argued as follows: first, by maintaining signifier and signified of the traditional corset as underwear, aggressive eroticism of corset has been observed, second, by perceiving corset as the agency of the body, fetishism of corset dissociates the function of sexual object from corset while distorting the relationship of signifier and signified, third, through embodying the notion of muscular corset literally, the ironical representation of corset as a torturing device of female body deconstructs the traditional relation of signifier and signified of corset.
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    Entering the twentieth century, corsets began to disappear with the tendency of concentrating on slim bodies and youth. As corsets proceeded to be discarded, they began to be internalized as a means of controlling the body; ‘muscular corset’ takes...

    Entering the twentieth century, corsets began to disappear with the tendency of concentrating on slim bodies and youth. As corsets proceeded to be discarded, they began to be internalized as a means of controlling the body; ‘muscular corset’ takes hold. However, the internalized corset increasingly appears to be externalized again in contemporary fashion. This study investigates how natural body is reconstructed as socio-cultural image drawing on the relationship between the signifier and signified of corset. As for the research methodology this study conducts literature survey to investigate the internalization of corset. This study proceeds to examine the subjects of fashion collections from 1980 to 2010 and samples the outfits which represent the externalization of corset through case analysis. Through the discussion of the study, the relationship of signifier and signified in the externalization of corset is argued as follows: first, by maintaining signifier and signified of the traditional corset as underwear, aggressive eroticism of corset has been observed, second, by perceiving corset as the agency of the body, fetishism of corset dissociates the function of sexual object from corset while distorting the relationship of signifier and signified, third, through embodying the notion of muscular corset literally, the ironical representation of corset as a torturing device of female body deconstructs the traditional relation of signifier and signified of corset.

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    참고문헌 (Reference)

    1 임은혁, "패션에 나타난 몸의 이상화-외면화된 코르셋으로서의 스키니 진을 중심으로-" 한국의류학회 35 (35): 1215-1227, 2011

    2 Gaulter, J. P., "http://www.theguardian.com"

    3 Madonna, "http://www.mad-eyes.net"

    4 Galliano, J., "http://www.firstviewkorea.com"

    5 Gaultier, J. P., "http://www.bagcrazeblog.com"

    6 Madonna, "http://madonnachartdiary.wordpress.com"

    7 Westwood, V., "http://fashionmuseum.fitnyc.edu"

    8 Mugler, T., "http://90srunway.tumblr.com"

    9 Loschek, I., "When clothes become fashion:Design and innovation systems" Berg 2009

    10 Eiland, H., "Walter Benjamin: Selected writings, Vol. Ⅳ: 1938-1940" Belknap Press of Harvard University Press 2003

    1 임은혁, "패션에 나타난 몸의 이상화-외면화된 코르셋으로서의 스키니 진을 중심으로-" 한국의류학회 35 (35): 1215-1227, 2011

    2 Gaulter, J. P., "http://www.theguardian.com"

    3 Madonna, "http://www.mad-eyes.net"

    4 Galliano, J., "http://www.firstviewkorea.com"

    5 Gaultier, J. P., "http://www.bagcrazeblog.com"

    6 Madonna, "http://madonnachartdiary.wordpress.com"

    7 Westwood, V., "http://fashionmuseum.fitnyc.edu"

    8 Mugler, T., "http://90srunway.tumblr.com"

    9 Loschek, I., "When clothes become fashion:Design and innovation systems" Berg 2009

    10 Eiland, H., "Walter Benjamin: Selected writings, Vol. Ⅳ: 1938-1940" Belknap Press of Harvard University Press 2003

    11 Fukai, A., "Visions of the body 2005 exhibition catalogue" Seoul Museum of Art 2005

    12 Lynn, E., "Underwear : Fashion in detail" V&A Publishing 2010

    13 Kreiswirth, M., "Theory between the disciplines" University of Michigan Press 1990

    14 Screen, "The sexual subject: A screen reader in sexuality" Routeledge 1992

    15 Thesander, M., "The feminine ideal" Reaktion Books 1997

    16 Welters, L., "The fashion reader" Berg 2007

    17 Welters, L., "The fashion reader" Berg 2011

    18 Turney, J., "The culture of knitting" Berg 2009

    19 Steele, V., "The corset: A cultural history" Yale University Press 2001

    20 Falk, P., "The consuming body" Sage Publications 1994

    21 Turner, B., "The body and society" Body and Heart 2002

    22 Vincent, S., "The anatomy of fashion: Dressing the body from the Renaissance to today" Berg Publishers 2010

    23 Choi, H. S., "Study of representation of traditional feminism, postmodern feminism, female sexuality in fashion" Seoul University 2000

    24 Suh, K. S., "Study of fetishism from the point of view of psychoanalytic․socio-economic research in fashion" Seoul University 1999

    25 Benstock, S., "On fashion" Rutgers University Press 1994

    26 Dimant, E., "Minimalism and fashion: Reduction in the postmodern era" Harper Design 2010

    27 Bancroft, A., "Inspiring desire : Lacan, couture, and the avant-garde" 15 (15): 67-82, 2011

    28 Brill, D., "Goth culture: Gender, sexuality, and style" Berg 2008

    29 Freud, S., "Freud theory of sexual love" Munhaksegyesa 1997

    30 Steele, V., "Fetish: Fashion, sex, and power" Oxford University Press 1996

    31 Brownmiller, S., "Femininity" Simon and Schuster 1986

    32 Craik, J., "Fashion: The key concepts" Berg 2009

    33 Arnold, R., "Fashion, desire and anxiety" Rutgers University Press 2001

    34 Davis, F., "Fashion, culture, and identity" The University of Chicago Press 1992

    35 Barnard, M., "Fashion theory: A reader" Routledge 2007

    36 Bippus, E., "Fashion body cult" Arnoldsche 2007

    37 Evans, C., "Fashion at the edge: Spectacle, modernity, and deathliness" Yale University Press 2007

    38 Barnard, M., "Fashion as communication" Routeledge 1996

    39 Kunzle, D., "Fashion and fetishism: A social history of corsets, tight-lacing and other forms of body sculpture" Sutton Publishing 2004

    40 Steele, V., "Fashion and eroticism" Oxford University Press 1985

    41 Koda, H., "Extreme beauty: The body transformed" Metropolitan Museum of Art 2004

    42 Ash, J., "Chic thrills: A fashion reader" Pandora 1992

    43 Hanlim Museum of Art․Semiotics Institute of Ewha Womans University, "Body and art" Ewha Womans University Press 1999

    44 Freeman, R., "Beauty bound" Prentice Hall & IBD 1986

    45 Wilson, E., "Adorned in dreams: Fashion and modernity" Virago Press 1985

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