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      Characterization and process optimization of indigo dyed cotton denim garments by enzymatic wash

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      https://www.riss.kr/link?id=A106231555

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      다국어 초록 (Multilingual Abstract)

      Denim garment was treated with cellulase enzyme by varying the process parameters, namely concentration of enzyme, washing temperature and time to develop novel design and fashion. The effect of process parameters on the physical and mechanical properties of cotton denim garment was investigated and denim fabric properties like tensile strength, elongation at break, weight loss, stiffness, water absorption, shrinkage, color fading and morphological values by SEM were discussed. To obtain the desired fashion effect in terms of color fading, comfort ability in terms of reducing the stiffness of denim and high wear performance in terms of longevity/minimum tensile strength losses of denim, indigo dyed denim garment (trousers, 100% cotton with twill weave 3/1 construction) had been chosen and processed with the enzyme concentration of 0.5% to 3.5%, treatment temperature from 40°C to 70°C and treatment time from 20 min to 60 min. The process parameters were optimized and the optimized washing condition for the best value is 2% enzyme concentration at 55°C for 40 min.
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      Denim garment was treated with cellulase enzyme by varying the process parameters, namely concentration of enzyme, washing temperature and time to develop novel design and fashion. The effect of process parameters on the physical and mechanical proper...

      Denim garment was treated with cellulase enzyme by varying the process parameters, namely concentration of enzyme, washing temperature and time to develop novel design and fashion. The effect of process parameters on the physical and mechanical properties of cotton denim garment was investigated and denim fabric properties like tensile strength, elongation at break, weight loss, stiffness, water absorption, shrinkage, color fading and morphological values by SEM were discussed. To obtain the desired fashion effect in terms of color fading, comfort ability in terms of reducing the stiffness of denim and high wear performance in terms of longevity/minimum tensile strength losses of denim, indigo dyed denim garment (trousers, 100% cotton with twill weave 3/1 construction) had been chosen and processed with the enzyme concentration of 0.5% to 3.5%, treatment temperature from 40°C to 70°C and treatment time from 20 min to 60 min. The process parameters were optimized and the optimized washing condition for the best value is 2% enzyme concentration at 55°C for 40 min.

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      참고문헌 (Reference)

      1 Kwon, YA, "Wettability of Nonwoven Fabrics : Effect of Laundering on Water Absorption" 13 : 17-29, 1995

      2 Tyndall, M., "Upgrading garment washing techniques" 5 : 22-30, 1990

      3 Heikinheimo, L, "Treatment of cotton fabrics with purified trichoderma reesei cellulases" 114 (114): 216-220, 1998

      4 Heikinheimo, L, "Treating denim fabrics with trichoderma reesei cellulases" 70 (70): 969-973, 2000

      5 Li, Y, "Treating cotton with cellulases and pectinases : Effects on cuticle and fiber properties" 68 (68): 671-679, 1998

      6 Grieve, M, "The use of indigo derivatives to dye denim material" 46 : 15-24, 2006

      7 Grieve, M, "The population of colored textile fiber on outdoor surfaces" 37 : 231-239, 1997

      8 Kleman-Leyer, KM, "The cellulases endoglucanase I and cellobiohydrolase II of trichoderma reesei act synergistically to solubilize native cotton cellulose but not to decrease its molecular size" 62 (62): 2883-2887, 1996

      9 Butler, SM, "The Effects of Environmental Attitudes on Apparel Purchasing Behavior" 15 : 76-85, 1997

      10 Cookson, PG., "Relationships between hygral expansion, relaxation shrinkage, and extensibility in woven wool fabrics" 62 : 44-, 1992

      1 Kwon, YA, "Wettability of Nonwoven Fabrics : Effect of Laundering on Water Absorption" 13 : 17-29, 1995

      2 Tyndall, M., "Upgrading garment washing techniques" 5 : 22-30, 1990

      3 Heikinheimo, L, "Treatment of cotton fabrics with purified trichoderma reesei cellulases" 114 (114): 216-220, 1998

      4 Heikinheimo, L, "Treating denim fabrics with trichoderma reesei cellulases" 70 (70): 969-973, 2000

      5 Li, Y, "Treating cotton with cellulases and pectinases : Effects on cuticle and fiber properties" 68 (68): 671-679, 1998

      6 Grieve, M, "The use of indigo derivatives to dye denim material" 46 : 15-24, 2006

      7 Grieve, M, "The population of colored textile fiber on outdoor surfaces" 37 : 231-239, 1997

      8 Kleman-Leyer, KM, "The cellulases endoglucanase I and cellobiohydrolase II of trichoderma reesei act synergistically to solubilize native cotton cellulose but not to decrease its molecular size" 62 (62): 2883-2887, 1996

      9 Butler, SM, "The Effects of Environmental Attitudes on Apparel Purchasing Behavior" 15 : 76-85, 1997

      10 Cookson, PG., "Relationships between hygral expansion, relaxation shrinkage, and extensibility in woven wool fabrics" 62 : 44-, 1992

      11 Prabaharan, M, "Process Optimization in Peracetic Acid Bleaching of Cotton" 70 (70): 657-661, 2000

      12 Kochavi, D, "Optimizing processing conditions in enzymatic stone washing" 9 : 24-28, 1990

      13 Buchert, J, "New cellulase processes for the textile industry. EU-Project Report" 22 : 32-34, 1998

      14 Kang, I, "Mechanical strength of durable press finished cotton fabrics. Part 1 : Effects of acid degradation and cross linking of cellulose by polycarboxylic acids" 68 : 856-870, 1998

      15 Tyndall, RM., "Improving the softness and surface appearance of cotton fabrics and garments by treatment with cellulase enzymes" 24 : 23-26, 1992

      16 Islam, MT., "Garments washing & dyeing" Ananto publications 220-222, 2010

      17 Kashem, MA., "Garments Merchandising" Lucky-one traders 2008

      18 Razzaque, MA., "Garment & Textile Merchandising" Popular publications 2004

      19 Wood, TM., "Fungal Cellulases" 20 : 46-52, 1992

      20 Duran, N, "Enzyme applications in the textile industry" 30 (30): 41-44, 2000

      21 Walker, LP, "Enzymatic hydrolysis of cellulose : An overview" 36 : 3-14, 1991

      22 Betrabet, SM, "Effect of cellulase on the morphology and fine structure of cellulose substrates" 14 : 811-820, 1980

      23 Morries, CE, "Comprehensive view on garment dyeing and finishing" 83 : 132-136, 1994

      24 Koo, H, "Cellulase treatment of cotton fabrics" 64 (64): 70-74, 1994

      25 "BS 3449. Testing the resistance of fabrics to water absorption (static immersion test)"

      26 "BS 3356. Method for determination of bending length and flexural rigidity of fabrics"

      27 Eckman, M., "Attractiveness of Men’s Suits : The Effect of Aesthetic Attributes and Consumer Characteristics" 15 : 193-202, 1997

      28 Kawamura, H, "Application of enzymes in textile finishing" 8 : 99-, 1989

      29 Gam, HJ, "Addressing Sustainable Apparel Design Challenges With Problem-Based Learning" 29 : 202-215, 2011

      30 "ASTM D 5034. Standard test method for breaking force and elongation of textile fabrics (Grab test). In American Society for Testing and Materials, Annual book of ASTM Standards, Vol. 07.01"

      31 "ASTM D 3776. Standard test methods for mass per unit area (weight) of woven fabric. In American Society for Testing and Materials, Annual book of ASTM Standards, Vol. 07.02"

      32 "ASTM D 1909. Table of commercial moisture regains for textile fibers. In American Society for Testing and Materials, Annual Book of ASTM Standards, Vol.07.01"

      33 "ASTM D 1776. Standard practice for conditioning textiles for testing. In American Society for Testing and Materials, Annual Book of ASTM Standards, Vol.07.01"

      34 "AATCC test method 96. Dimensional changes in commercial laundering of woven and knitted fabrics except wool"

      35 "AATCC test method 61. Colorfastness to laundering, home and commercial: accelerated"

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