일본 국립역사민속박물관 소장 16세기 라꾸주우라꾸가이(洛中洛外) 병풍 갑본(甲本) 풍속화의 여자복식 연구 = A Study on Women’s Costume in 16th Century Genre Paintings Drawnon Rakuchu-rakugai Folding Screens in the Collection of the National Museum of Japanese History

다국어 초록 (Multilingual Abstract)

Subjects of the study include costumes worn by 291 out of the 1426 women appearing in genre paintings drawn on Rakuchu-rakugai folding screens dating from the 16<SUP>th</SUP> century in the collection of the National Museum of Japanese History. The study analyzed the types of women’s costume appearing in genre paintings drawn on folding screens, compared costume according to the status of the wearer, and examined the characteristics of headgear, hairstyles and patterns and textile colors in order to discern aspects of the socio-cultural background of the time and the transition in the haracteristics of women’s costume in the 16<SUP>th</SUP> century. The findings of the study are as follows. Genre paintings drawn on Rakuchu-rakugai folding screens showed that 262 out of 291 women wore Gosode, the sleeves of which were narrow compared to Gosode in the 14<SUP>th</SUP> and 15<SUP>th</SUP> centuries. Meanwhile, the total length of Gosode varied depending on the status and occupation of the wearer. In terms of headgear, the highest number of women (102) wore a headgear called Gatsgi, and this was followed in popularity by an Amigasa and a bandana. Looking at hairstyles, it was found that 88 women in the upper class had long hair, while women who were commoners, merchants or laborers mostly had simple hair styles, such as short hair, a beehive or a ponytail. Colors of textile include white, red, green, brown and black, and they were applied to Gosode, Gatsgi, Amigasa, Ijimegasa and bandana. Patterns such as plain patterns, water drop patterns and lattice patterns were used as indicators of social status, and it turned out that lattice patterns were used in the 16<SUP>th</SUP> century. The appearance of women’s costume in genre paintings provides a valuable resource to help researchers examine costume in connection to social background and characteristics in the 16<SUP>th</SUP> century, and to better understand difference sincostume related to social status.

목차 (Table of Contents)

• 〈Abstract〉
• Ⅰ. 서론
• Ⅱ. 역박갑본의 유래 및 특성
• Ⅲ. 역박갑본 풍속화에 나타난 여자복식
• Ⅳ. 역박갑본의 풍속화에 나타난 16세기 여자복식의 특징
• Ⅴ. 결론
• 참고문헌

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