현대패션디자인에 나타난 동양의 미의식 연구

다국어 초록 (Multilingual Abstract)

1. Introduction In the present age dominated by both certainty of 1%, and uncertainty of 99%, `Fuzzy thinking` of Bart Kosko, that is the way to solve the problems by the scientific way through a worldview of Buddhism or Taoism greatly prevails around the world over Lateral thinking`, and the authenticity or the right and-wrong of the uncertainty, which is the thinking way to find the answer of the problems of illogical way of Edward de Bello against the western verical thinking way. Concurrently fashion designers over the world also adopt the oriental elements. But there exist differences of thoughts between the Orient and the Occident. And they have different thinking way of aestheticism and references of the value on the beauty. Not only beauty but the view through the mind as intuitional thought in which not only the recognition of sense but also the rationalism and the naturalness play key role. The asethetic sense in th orient constains both the truth and virtue. 2. The asethetic thought in the Orient It`s from the thought of neutralization of Confucius. The mean or moderation state which in harmony with ethical virtue and aesthetic beauty is the ideal and is the ultimate. Therefore the thought of Confucian is the creativity in which the balance and the harmony is most important. Fashion design is also one of the representation of the mean, because the spirit of the designer is harmonized formlessly with the object of the model of the fashion design. 2) The beauty of skillfulness It indicates the Taoism of Lao-tzu and Chuangtzu. It takes a super-arustic declaration that human can feel and recognize the color of colorlessness, the sound of soundlessness, and the taste of tatelessness. The thought of arts affected by Taoism is `advanced age`. called the beauty of skillfuness. The view of arts of Lao-tzu takes the beauty of cosmos and the nature as a standard. Especially the beauty of inactivity is recognized by the linkage between the beauty and the ugliness. And these things appear in fashion design as a design elelment such as humor or exaggeration. 3) The beauty of non-dualism It is thought of Buddhism that all evil passions of worry occur from the opposition in dualism. Finally this thought leads to that everything is consistent and truth is only one from the point of view that virtue and vice has on linkage, that is `no virtues, no vices` (不思善, 不思惡) and `one with two, two with one, one is not two` (一而二, 二而一, 一而不二), A big tendency like this became the root formation of the thought of the oriental arts. 3. Characteristics of the oriental asethetic sense on the present fashion design 1) The formation of the fashion design on the oriental elements In the picture-incantation(圖像呪術), which was a representation of an era when the though of `cosmic dual forces(The positive and negative)` dominated, the basic polygons of `a circle, square, triangle` means both `one, two, three`, and `the negative, positive, mean` of cosmic elements. From this point of view the way of planner cutting in the Orient is different from that of the Occidental which is in three-dimensional. The plannaer polygon type of the cut-pieces comes to have the meaning of the three-dimension, when they consist of a suit that has the combination of each cut-piece. This shows the consistency with the principle of cosmos creation of Taoism that one is two is three and three is everything. 2) The coloring and the symbolic representation of the fashion design on the oriental elemensts The sense on the colors in the Orient from the thought of `the cosmic dual forces and the five elements(陰陽五行說)` is not the experienced from the knowledge, but contains the consideration of philosophy, Five-primary-color(五正色) representing compass directions Blue(East), Red(South), Yellow(Center), White(West), and Black(North) is called `the positive`. for this five-primary-color, secondary-color(間色) which comes from the compound of the primary color is called 'the negative