Symposium 1-2 (SYP 1-2) : Perfume in cosmetics = Symposium 1-2 (SYP 1-2) : Perfume in cosmetics

다국어 초록 (Multilingual Abstract)

Aromatherapy is an ancient medical art which, in the present day, is a subset of alternative medicine. Even mentioned in the Old Testament, modern-day aromatherapy began with the publication of “ Aromatherapy” by French chemist Rene-Maurice Gattefosse in 1928. Aromatherapy is the use of aromatic essential oils derived from various parts of plants for a therapeutic purpose. Essential oils are highly volatile hydrophobic liquid extracted from plants. Raw materials for essential oil include flowers (chamomile, jasmine, lavender, manuka, marjoram, rose, ylang-ylang), leaves (basil, eucalyptus, lemongrass, melaleuca, oregano, palmarosa, patchouli, peppermint, pine, rosemary, tea tree, thyme), fruits (allspice, juniper berry), peel (bergamot, grapefruit, lemon, lime, orange, petitgrain, tangerine), seeds (almond, anise, celery, cumin, nutmeg), bark (cassia, cinnamon, sassafras), wood (camphor, cedar, rosewood, sandalwood), rhizome (galangal, ginger), root (calamus, valerian, vetivert) and resin (benzoin, copaiba, frankincense, myrrh). Extraction methods used are steam distillation, enfleurage, expression, solvent extraction, and supercritical fluid extraction. Essential oils are diluted in pure ethanol, polyethylene glycol or carrier oil. Essential oil is composed of many organic compounds with anti-infectious, calming, antispasmodic, expectorant, mucolytic, immunostimulant and wound healing properties such as acids, aromatic aldehydes, alcohols, coumarins, esters, lactones, ketones, oxides, phenols and terpenes. Essential oil is absorbed by 4 routes: topical (massage, compress, bath, gel, cream, spray), inhaled (diffuser, incense, aromastick), internal (mouthwashes, otic solutions, douches, pessaries, suppositories) and oral. Although essential oils are lipophilic, their terpene constituents improve penetration of hydrophilic drugs and can thus be used as natural skin penetration enhancer of drugs. Aromatherapy is used for relief of stress/anxiety, pain reduction, improvement of dementia, depression, hypertension, nausea/vomiting, insomnia, and in cancer/hospice care. Geranium, petitgrain, winter savory and tea tree oil have anti-septic activities; juniper berry has anti-inflammatory activities; cajeput has anti-HSV properties; oregano, thyme, cinnamon, lemongrass, clove, palmarose, peppermint, lavender, geranium, tea tree, etc. have fungicidal activities; chamomile and lavender have stress-reducing action; and lavender has wound healing properties, to list a few examples. Most common adverse effect of aromatherapy is dermatitis, most frequently caused by lavender, peppermint, tea tree oil and ylang-ylang. Psoralens and furanocoumarins in citrus oils can cause phototoxicity. To avoid pesticide residues, organically grown mint and citrus oils should be selected. Therapeutic effects of essentials oils are not well supported by evidence, and actions of many essential oils overlap.