말흘리 유적 출토 수착직물의 특성과 유물의 재구성 = A Study on the Characteristics and Reconstruction of Attached Textiles from Malheulri

다국어 초록 (Multilingual Abstract)

This study examines the textiles attached to the metallic artifacts found at the site of Malheul-ri in the Changnyung area. All four hemp textiles examined were found to be woven using s-twist plain fibers similar characteristics in terms of fiber diameter/density have also been observed in ancient hemp textiles. Two kinds of weaving methods appear to have been used in the ramie textiles examined: one piece was made using a plain braid, while three pieces were made using a plain weave involving both s-twist fibers and ramie. The silk textiles can classified into plain woven silk, cho, and double woven brocade, all of which used non-twisted threads and degummed silk. These features are very similar to that of ancient silk textiles dating to before the sixth century A.D.
Warp faced brocades were found attached to decorative plates of gilt bronze. Since warp faced brocade is known to have been woven prior to the Dang dynasty, it is likely that the decorative plates and attached fabrics were manufactured before Unified Silla dynasty. Using the selvedge direction of the brocade, it was possible to determine the fixing direction of the decorative plates. The use of selvedge direction of the textiles could be utilized to determine the exact direction of the remains even with circle or square shapes. Considering these features, the examined decorative plates could be presumed that these were used as decorations against brilliant backgrounds, the front or the rear side could be seen in the open space. But the arrangement of the decorative plates in the brocades could not be clearly determined due to the lack of data or references.

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