공신부인(恭慎夫人) 한씨(韓氏)에게 전달된 물품 및 출토복식 분석을 통한 15세기 조선 사대부 가 여성복식 고찰과 착장고증

다국어 초록 (Multilingual Abstract)

Lady Han, Gongshin-buin(恭愼夫人韓氏: 1410~1483) was Gongnyeo of Ming emperor and sister of Han Hwak(韓確:1400~1456). The aim of this study is to analyze the characteristic of costume presents for Lady Han, and to investigate a part of Joseon women’s attire in the 15th century. Most of the presents for Lady Han were native products of Joseon to help alleviate her homsickness, but surviving relics are very rare. The costume-related presents included daily accessories and fabrics such as natural ornaments, embroidered pouch, needle case, wig, wooden comb, portable knife with multi-blades, various colored plain silk [綿紬] and ramie. Also, preceding research analysis of costume relic were combined with study of presents for Lady Han’s. The most salient costume of Joseon women in the 15th century was the symmetric collared jacket. In addition, ornamented jeogori, pouch with pine nut stitch, chima, jangot, jangsam, black veil[羅兀] made with ra or jeung, glass beads, paintings of Ming and Joseon can be references. Illustrations show 6 representative type of Joseon women’s full attires in the 15th century are as follows. First, is a combination of ‘symmetric collared jacket with peacock rank badge, jeoksam, chima, underwear’ and ‘hoa-a, janga-a, embroidered pouch, needle case, knife with multi-blades: presents for Lady Han’. Second, formal wear focusing on symmetric collared Jacket of cloud pattern. Third, formal wear focusing on multicolor ornamented jeogori. Fourth, town wear with jangot and neoul. Fifth, formal wear with jangsam. Sixth, daily wear focusing on banbi with symmetric squre collar. Accessories and underwear shown in another illustration were same as the first illustration. Results of this study can be used as content for making historically accutate costumes as well as costume education.

참고문헌 (Reference)

1 송미경, "조선전기 여성용 대금형(對襟形) 상의류에 관한 연구" 한국복식학회 57 (57): 135-144, 2007

2 송미경, "조선시대 여자복식을 위한 각 시대별 특징 연구" 한국복식학회 58 (58): 71-86, 2008

3 이자연, "조·일간의 교역품이 조선의 복식문화에 미친 영향(I) - 일본으로 부터의 수입품을 중심으로 -" 한국의류산업학회 5 (5): 331-336, 2003

4 임상훈, "明初 朝鮮 貢女 親族의 政治的 成長과 對明外交活動 ― 權永均과 韓確을 中心으로 ―" 명청사학회 (39) : 1-38, 2013

5 "Wanjimul[玩之物]. (n.d.). In Sungjong-sillok[성종실록]" National Institute of Korean History

6 "Wangbirok[王妃錄]" 청주한씨중앙종친회

7 Lee, I., "Translated Sungho-saseol II[국역 성호사설 II]" Kyungin Publishing 1976

8 Lee, D. M., "Translated Chungjanggwan-jeonseo 6[국역 청장관전서 6]" Solbook 1997

9 "Tooth of Musk Deer Pendant with Wellmade Silverwork[工好包银香獐牙]: JY5405697"

10 "Tomul. (n.d.). In Sungjong-sillok[성종실록]" National Institute of Korean History

11 Incheon Metropolitan City Museum, "The excavated costumes from lime grave of Seoknamdong in Incheon[인천 석남동 회곽묘 출토복식]" Incheon Metropolitan City Museum 2005

12 Yoon, Y. S., "The cultural treasure story of Yoon, Yeol Su: tiger is the spirit of national culture" The Monthly Chosun

13 Park, "The Masterpiece in Korean costume: Joseon women’s taste and attire[한국복식명품: 조선시대 여인의 멋과 차림새]" Dankook University Press 2005

14 Lee, M. S., "The Excavated costumes from lime grave of Seoknamdong in Incheon[인천 석남동 회곽묘 출토복식]" Incheon Metropolitan City Museum 22-61, 2005

15 Kim, M. J., "The Excavated costumes from lime grave of Seoknam-dong in Incheon[인천 석남동 회곽묘 출토복식]" Incheon Metropolitan City Museum 110-158, 2005

16 Ma, S., "THE COMPLETE COLLECTION OF MURALS UNEARTHED IN CHINA" Science Press 2012

17 "Sunang[繡囊]. (n.d.). In Sungjong-sillok[성종실록]" National Institute of Korean History

18 "Sangpok[裳幅]. (n.d.). In Sungjong-sillok[성종실록]" Nati onal Institute of Korean History

19 "Osadoja. (n.d.). In Sungjong-sillok[성종실록]" National In stitute of Korean History

20 "Norigae. (n.d.). In Sungjong-sillok[성종실록]" National Institute of Korean History

21 "Musk deer"

22 Gyeonggi Provincial Museum, "Masterpieces from the Excavated Costumes of the Gyeonggi Provincial Museum" Ninead 2008

23 "Malgun. (n.d.). In Sejong-sillok[세종실록]" National Instit ute of Korean History

24 National Research Institute of Cultural Heritage, "Korean Art Collection-GRASSI Museum für Völkerkunde zu Leipzig, Germany" Graphicnet 2013

25 National Research Institute of Cultural Heritage, "Korean Art Collection at the Museum of Fine Art, Boston" National Research Institute of Cultural Heritage 2004

26 Dong, Y., "Joseonbu[朝鮮賦]" Kachi Publishing Co., Ltd 1994

27 "Jangsam[長衫]. (n.d.). In Sejong-sillok[세종실록]" National Institute of Korean History

28 Jo, H. S., "Incheon Metropolitan City Museum (Ed.), The excavated costumes from lime grave of Seoknam-dong in Incheon[인천 석남동 회곽묘 출토복식]" Incheon Metropolitan City Museum 80-104, 2005

29 Sim, Y. O., "Important Folk Materials 2- clothing &embroidery" Cultural Heritage Administration 214-217, 2006

30 Paek, D. H., "Important Folk Materials 2 -clothing & embroidery" Cultural Heritage Administration 274-281, 2006

31 "Hwaeun[花銀]. (n.d.). In Sungjong-sillok[성종실록]" National Institute of Korean History

32 "Hu ajiashoucangwang[華夏收藏網]"

33 "Horangei[호랑이]. (n.d.). In Sungjong-sillok[성종실록]" National Institute of Korean History

34 "Han Hwak. (n.d.). In Encyclopedia of Korean Culture"

35 "Han Chi Rye. (n.d.). In Encyclopedia of Korean Culture"

36 "Han Chi Hyeong. (n.d.). In Encyclopedia of Korean Culture"

37 "Gongshin-buin[恭慎夫人]. (n.d.). In Heonjong-sunwhangje -silrok[憲宗純皇帝實錄]" National Institute of Korea n History

38 "Gahwasekra[茄花色羅]. (n.d.). In Sungjong-sillok[성종실록]" National Institute of Korean History

39 "Frugality[節儉]. (n.d.). In Sungjong-sillok[성종실록]" National Institute of Korean History

40 "Ershiwushi-Mingshi 5[二十五史-明史五]" Xinwen feng Chubanshe 1975

41 Chang, S. N., "EMBROIDERY AND FINERY 4: HISTORICAL COSTUME VOLUME 2[中國織繡服飾全集4: 歷代服飾卷下]" Tianjin peoples fine arts publishing house 2004

42 "Dyeing[染色]. (n.d.). In Sungjong-sillok[성종실록]" Natio nal Institute of Korean History

43 "Chogu[貂裘]. (n.d.). In Sungjong-sillok[성종실록]" Natio nal Institute of Korean History

44 Changpingqu 13 Royal Tomb Zone Managing Department in Beijing, "CATALOGUE OF RELICS FROM THE DINGLING MAUSOLEUM-VOLUME I[定陵出土文物图典-卷I]" Beijing Arts and Photography Publishing House 2006

45 Lee, E. J., "A study on the use and shape of female’s jangsam in early Joseon period[조선전기 여성 장삼(長衫)의 용도와 형태에 관한 연구]" 33-41, 2016

46 Yim, H. I., "'Every stich', sew longing a nd make love" Joongdoilbo