스펙트럼 파랑모형에서의 쇄파모형

국문 초록 (Abstract)

주파수영역에서 쇄파로 인한 에너지 소산에 관한 그 동안의 논쟁은 주파수의 함수인 소산항의 구체적 형태를 중심으로 진행되어왔다. 본 연구에서는 추계학적 쇄파모형과 이에 기초한 스펙트럼으로부터 소산항을 유추하였다. 기존의 인식과는 상이하게 소산항은 주파수의 삼차함수인 것으로 판단된다. 검증작업은 SUPERTANK Laboratory Data Collection Project(Krauss et al., 1992)에서 축적된 실험자료를 기초로 진행되었다. 추가적인 검증을 위해 단조해안에서의 Cnoidal 파랑의 천수과정을 스펙트럼 파랑모형과 제시된 쇄파모형을 차용하여 수치모의하였다. 그 결과 쇄패대역에서 진행되는 파랑의 왜도와 비대칭성의 진화과정이 비교적 정확히 모의되는 성과를 얻었다.

다국어 초록 (Multilingual Abstract)

There is still a controversy going on about how to model energy dissipation due to breaking over frequency domain. In this study, we unveil the exact structure of energy dissipation using stochastic wave breaking model. It turns out that contrary to our present understanding, energy dissipation is cubically distributed over frequency domain. The verification of proposed model is conducted using the acquired data during SUPERTANK Laboratory Data Collection Project (Krauss et al., 1992). For further verification, we numerically simulate the nonlinear shoaling process of Conoidal wave over a beach of uniform slope, and obtain very promising results from the viewpoint of a skewness and asymmetry of wave field, usually regarded as the most fastidious parameter to satisfy.

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