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소황옥(Soh Hwang-oak),박선영(Park Sun-young) 비교민속학회 2005 비교민속학 Vol.0 No.30
Academic researches about the cloth is the culture of these times as well as the research of the inside of human being. The research of the inside of human being are about human being how to adjust oneself to surrounding circumstance, how to change, how to be developed. Also, this is the general symbol for the inside world of human being including the aesthetics and emotion of these times's people. However, the research of the cloth has the limitation comparing with the other field due to the its own property. The general research data for the cloth's research are the indirect data such as a wall painting and literature because the mos part of cloth is an organized body and disappear after a long time. Therefore, the excavated costumes and textiles, which is digged the old tomb are an important data for understanding the past cloth's culture. In addition, the first purpose of this study is the analysis of the publication of report for the general and academic persons such as the problems for the each type of excavating context through the investigation of published reports in the meantime and the problems for the conservation treatment & safekeeping. Also, second purpose of this study is the induction of publication of report, which present the digging of an desirable excavated article and the detailed and exact data. The research of the excavated article is the combined study including medical science, humanities, natural science, and study of cloth. Also, this demand the unificated research attitude. These study is essential research procedure for the analysis of class and type of the excavated costumes and textiles and we are trying to analysis the type and class of the excavated costumes and textiles as the following research of these study.
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페르시아 파르티아(Parthia) 왕조 샤미(Shami)왕자 상의 복식 연구
장영수(CHANG Young-Soo) 한국중동학회 2006 한국중동학회논총 Vol.27 No.1
The purpose of the study is to examine the upper garment of Prince Shami of Parthia Dynasty (B.C. 240-A.D. 226) in Persia. The dynasty’s art works incorporates and well represents Southwest Asia specific cultural characteristics, which were affected by Greek culture that was introduced into the territory since the reign of Alexander the Great. And this means that they distinctively stand for the features of the Dynasty which had been flourished over a wide area. The region’s peculiar costume was also under the influence of the territorial cultural properties which were especially combined with foreign things from Greece. The statue of Princess Shami, 1m and 90cm high, excavated in the area of Shami under the mountain range of Zagros in Iran, in the year 1930, puts on a long rumpled trouser, along with a caftan type fly front jacket and a tunic therein. The sculpture wears the apparel which is bound with a belt round waist, two daggers hung down on both sides, with boots on, and has his hairin a bob and a band across his forehead. This kind of attire is characterized by both trouser and jacket which are basic constituents of nomadic apparel, added by Greek drapery style, and is one of good examples that well represent a cultural attribute of Parthia. This paper is, therefore, intended to study the ancient costume culture by carefully examining and analyzing the garments of Princess Shami which have been relatively well preserved. I firmly believe a correct scrutiny of the clothings helpful in inferring its correlation with similar type of others that are being also discovered throughout other areas and that would have been diffused by the nomads and can provide a critical clue in getting an understanding of cultural exchanges through costumes. For this study, I gathered and analyzed data from documents on the culture and clothing of Parthia which have been issued in Europe.
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Delong의 지표적 고찰에 따른 형태적 과장 현상과 유형 분석 연구: 근세,근대 복식을 중심으로
배정민 ( Jung Min Bae ) 대한가정학회 2010 Human Ecology Research(HER) Vol.48 No.6
The formative exaggeration phenomenon, which makes the plastic space, escaping from the form peculiar to the human body, is being developed into the more diversified and abstract structure. This study analyzed the form and shape of costumes with objective attitude through the use of an oppositional concept method, which Delong presented from the formative viewpoint. Delong`s theory, which was presented in this study, can be said to be one index that analyzed the form and shape of costumes. The costumes of the Renaissance Era, in which formative exaggeration is remarkable, are determinate in that they are closed and static, and can be classified into part, planer separation, and flat. The costumes of the Baroque and Rococo Eras are divided into similar formative perspectives, and can be said to be open, whole, and integrated due to indeterminate and diverse decorations. Entering modern times, the formative-exaggeration phenomenon in costumes of the Romantic Era are characterized by closed, part, and planer separation similar to costumes of the Renaissance Era. However, in the aspect of sleeve design and decoration, the characteristics of determinate and indeterminate were considered.
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조선시대 초기 출토복식의 구성법에 관한 연구 ― 광주 민속박물관 소장 高雲 출토 포류를 중심으로 ―
안명숙 한국사상문화학회 2010 한국사상과 문화 Vol.52 No.-
This research examines the sewing method of the Po's in the early Chosun period in priority. The research is about one-layer, two-layer, cotton clothes, quilted cloth in cateogories such as Po's 12 pieces, Juk-Ryung 2 pieces, Dan-Ryung 1 piece, Cheol-rik 6 pieces, and Dap-Ho 3 pieces during the Chosun Period, and also the defferent types of sewing methods categorized by strcture-type. Furthermore, the research focuses on different method of sewing in different parts of the clothes such as Deng-sol, Bae-rae, Ba-Dae, Kit(collar) etc. The one layered cloth with a frayed end used flat felled seam, and the ones with selvage used backstitch or half backstitch and was arranged with open seam. The neckband sewed in unlined garments, a side line band sewed in unlined garments, waistband sewed in unlined garments are only found in one layered cloth, and decorative saddle stitching was used to make it look beautiful and also was stiched with strength and made sure it was firm. The edges of the clothes including the hem line, outer collar line, and inter collar line was reinforced with same cloth or different cloth, and was stitched by inserting it towards the inside. The use of flat felled seam, decorative saddle stitching, and elvage on the edges was a very unique style of stitching. The two layered clothes used broad stitching, and the edge of the sleeve, collar, hem line, outer collar line, inner collar line used two stitches, three stitches, decorative saddle stitches was used in the edge in order to hold the outer cloth and the inner cloth together. The pleats in the double cheol-rik had a distance of 0.3cm, and was precise as much as the one layered cloth. The cotton clothes used big stiches instead of using elaborate stitches due to the thickness of the cotton. Also, decorative saddle stitch was used in the edge of a sleeve, collar, and hem in order to hold the cotton cloth in position. 본 연구에서는 조선 전기의 포류 바느질법에 대해 중점적으로 살펴보고자 한다. 포류 12점 -직령 2점, 단령 1점, 철릭 6점, 답호 3점-에 대해 이 당시 홑옷, 겹옷, 솜옷, 누비옷 등 구성유형별 바느질법의 특징과 등솔, 배래, 바대, 깃 등 부위별 바느질법에 대해 살펴보았다. 즉 구성유형별 바느질의 특징을 살펴보고, 소재별로 부위가 같은데 바느질법이 다른 것이 있는지 알아보고, 부위별 특이한 부분 바느질이 행해진 것이 있는지 그리고 어떠한 부분인 지 등을 살펴봄으로써 이 당시 바느질법을 살펴보았다. 고운 출토복식에서 출토된 포류는 옷감이나 바느질 등 상태가 양호하여, 구성법 연구에 도움이 되었다. 홑옷은 주로 푸서인 경우는 옛쌈솔이 많이 사용되었고, 가진세를 사용한 부위는 박음질이나 반박음질을 한 후 가름솔로 처리하였다. 가진세를 아무 바느질도 하지 않고 그대로 사용한 경우도 있었다. 홑옷은 홑옷인만큼 바느질도 정교하고 겉에서 다 보이는 바느질이므로 겹옷이나 솜옷보다는 바느질법도 더 곱고 섬세하게 처리하였다. 어깨바대, 옆선바대, 허리바대 등은 홑옷이라 힘을 주고 견고하게 하기 위해 홑옷에만 처리하는 부위별 특징으로 대부분 겉에서 드러나도록 상침식 박음질하여 곱게 처리하였다. 의복의 가장자리도 도련단, 겉섶단, 안섶단 등 전체를 둘러 제물단이나 딴단을 사용하여 보강하였고 안으로 접어 넣어 감침질하였다. 홑옷의 주된 바느질인 옛쌈솔과 상침바느질, 식서를 그대로 가장자리로 활용하는 처리 등은 특이한 바느질법이었다. 겹옷은 대부분 홈질로 바느질하였고, 겉감과 안감을 고정시키기 위해 소매부리, 깃, 도련단, 겉섶단, 안섶단 부분 등에 2땀과 3땀 상침을 가장자리 중심으로 해 주었다. 겹철릭 등에 주름을 잡은 모습은 0.3㎝ 정도로 홑옷 못지않게 아주 정교하다. 솜옷은 솜의 두께로 고운 바느질보다는 주로 홈질로 처리하였고, 솜옷을 고정시키기 위해 역시 도련, 소매부리, 깃 부분 등에 상침하였다.
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조선시대 16·17세기 출토복식의 직물유형 및 문양에 관한 연구
임현주(Hyun Joo Yim),조효숙(Hyo Sook Cho) 한국복식학회 2004 服飾(복식) Vol.54 No.8
This study examined textiles used for ancient costumes of the 16ㆍ17th century in Joseon period, focusing on fabric types and patterns of the costumes from tombs. The purpose of this study was focused on investigating the relationship between fabrics and social backgrounds, especially change in using fabrics through the war from Hidyoshi`s Invasion of Korea in 1592. Since the war must have had an effect on the life of people`s. The result of the study is that silk occupies 69% of all textiles, and cotton, linen follow. The weaving method of silk was primarily plain and satin weaves. However the use of twill, gauze, and double weave, that had led weaving methods of silk during the Koryo Period, were considerably decreased in Joseon Period. Types excavated fabrics in the 16 ·17th century Joseon period can be said various. Of this, silk was the most remarkable one till Hidyoshi`s Invasion of Korea in 1592, when the ratio of patterned silk dramatically decreased. Contrarily, the ratio of cotton and plain fabric increased rapidly in Hidyoshi`s Invasion of Korea in 1592. It is supposed that the result is largely due to unusual condition of the war time. After the war, it is estimated that use of patterned fabric as well as silk was decreased. Patterns of textile fabrics in 16 ·17th century were various. In result of surveying a trend of increment and decrement, it is known that the ratio of patterned textile fabrics decreased dramatically in Hidyoshi`s Invasion of Korea in 1592 and Manchu war of 1636. Tendency of textile use by social position is more notable. It is appeared that a lot of silk fabrics were used in High hierarchy. The excavated remains and ratio of silk were the highest in Kyonggi Province including Seoul.
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