The Holistic View of Cosmetic Science

Yinmao Dong,Xianrong Qiu,Hong Meng 한국피부과학연구원 2016 아시안뷰티화장품학술지 Vol.14 No.1

목적: 화장품피부과학은 독립적인 학문이면서 생명과학, 화학, 포장설계 등 20개이상 분야를 포함한 종합적인 학 문이다. 화장품피부과학은 초기 간단한 피부조직에서부터 시작하였으나 피부가 시상 하부- 뇌하수체- 부신간의 내분비조절작용을 한다고 인식됨에 따라 피부는 내분비 신호전달의 대상기관으로 인식되기 시작했다. 피부과학은 피부의 매크로 이해로부터 현재의 피부미생물과 같은 마이크로 단계의 이해로 발전되었다. 그래서 본 연구는 피부 의 전체론을 제시해서 피부문제를 해결하려 한다. 방법: 고금중외 모든 국가의 형성과 전체론의 계기로 화장품과학전체론 및 화장품학과 연관된 학과 특히 피부과학 의 발전과정을 설명하였다. 결과: 본 연구는 피부과학의 발전과정을 총 정리하고 전반적인 관점을 설립하여 각종피부문제를 해결하려 한다. 결론: 화장품과학의 전체론은 화장품과학 발전의 필연적인 추세로 될 것이라고 사료된다. Purpose: Cosmetics science has become an independent and comprehensive science with over 20 disciplines, including life science, chemistry, packaging design. In the cosmetic skin science, there were early simple skin histology, and were the understanding of the hypothalamus pituitary adrenal axis in skin, that the skin becomes the target organ of various endocrine signaling. There were early the macro understanding of the skin, and now the micro understanding of the skin, such as skin microbial community and so on. Therefore,this paper put forward a holistic view to solve skin problems. Methods: Inspired from the formation and significance of holism at all times and in all countries, we expounded the development history of cosmetic science and cosmetics related disciplines, especially dermatology. Results: This summarized the development of dermatology and established a holistic view to remove various skin problems. Conclusion: The holistic view of cosmetic science will become an inevitable trend in the development of cosmetic science.

Polysaccharide Hydrogel and its Application Analysis

Nifeng Chen,Huina Zhang,Yinmao Dong,Li Li 한국피부과학연구원 2020 아시안뷰티화장품학술지 Vol.18 No.1

하이드로젤은 수분이 잘 흡수되고 생체 적합성이 우수하여 화학, 제약, 식품, 화장품 등 여러 분야에서 널리 사용된다. 하이드로젤 은 일반적으로 친수성 폴리머소재로 구성된다. 다당류는 천연 중합체 물질로서 분해성 및 생체 적합성으로 많은 인기가 있다. 본 총 설에서는 하이드로젤과 그 분류 및 특성을 논술하고, 바이오의약품 및 화장품 분야에서 다당류 하이드로젤의 응용 및 발전에 대해 분석했다. Hydrogels are widely used in chemical, pharmaceutical, food, cosmetics and other fields for their good water absorption and biocompatibility. Hydrogels are usually composed of hydrophilic polymer materials. Polysaccharides, as natural polymer materials, have attracted much attention because of their degradability and biocompatibility. This review introduced the hydrogel and its classification and characteristics, then emphatically analyzed and prospected the application and development of polysaccharide hydrogel in the field of biomedicine and cosmetics.

The Investigation of Function of Mineral Mud for the Skin

Yijie Du,Xiaofeng Deng,Li Li,Yinmao Dong 한국피부과학연구원 2016 아시안뷰티화장품학술지 Vol.14 No.1

목적: 본 연구는 미네랄머드가 류머티스성 질환, 건선 등 질병에 민간적 응용과 임상적 응용으로 많이 사용됨에 따 라 미네랄머드의 피부 임상응용을 목적으로 연구를 진행하였다. 방법: 미네랄머드의 소염, 항산화 작용을 요약하고, 미네랄머드를 화장품에 응용함에 있어서 존재하는 문제를 발 견하고 화장품영역에서의 발전방향을 제시하였다. 결과: 류머티스성 질환, 건선 등 난치 성 피부병의 치료는 미네랄머드의 소염, 항산화작용에 의한 것으로 보인다. 결론: 미네랄머드가 화장품 소재로서의 희망적인 가능성을 가지고 있지만 화장품 완제품으로 개발하기 위해서는 아직도 해결해야 할 여러 문제점들이 있다고 사료된다. Purpose: The treatment of mineral mud in rheumatic disease, psoriasis and other disease has been widely recognized in clinic application. We aim to explore the effect of mineral mud on the skin through it clinic application. Methods: We summarize the function of mineral mud in anti-inflammation, anti-oxidation, et al and point out the existing in the application of mineral mud in cosmetics and its development status. Results: Mineral mud have positive effects on rheumatic diseases through its properties of anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidation. Conclusion: The results demonstrate that mineral mud had a good prospect in cosmetics, but there are still many problems to be solved.

Intercellular and intracellular functions of ceramides and their metabolites in skin (Review)

CHA, HWA JUN,HE, CONGFEN,ZHAO, HUA,DONG, YINMAO,AN, IN-SOOK,AN, SUNGKWAN UNKNOWN 2016 INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF MOLECULAR MEDICINE Vol.38 No.1

<P>The skin consists of the epidermis, dermis and subcutis. The epidermis is primarily comprised of keratinocytes and is separated into four layers according to the stage of differentiation of the keratinocytes. Corneocytes are terminally differentiated keratinocytes that closely interact with other corneocytes through corneodesmosomes, and synthesize lamellar bodies and the intercellular multilamellar barrier, which protects the body from the external environment. As ceramides are the principal components of lamellar bodies and the multilamellar barrier, it is important to understand the biosynthesis of ceramides and their functions in skin. Ceramides are synthesized by amide bond-mediated interactions between sphingoid bases, long-chain amino alcohols [long-chain base] and fatty acids through a de novo pathway, a sphingomyelin (SM) hydrolysis pathway and a catabolic pathway. The majority of ceramides produced by the de novo pathway form the epidermal barrier. Ceramides used as signaling molecules are synthesized by the SM and catabolic pathways. Synthesized ceramides are released from corneocytes and form the multilamellar barrier. Additionally, ceramides and their metabolites regulate the apoptosis, proliferation and differentiation of skin cells as well as the formation of the skin barrier. Thus, the study of ceramides and their metabolites is crucial to understanding the function and regulation of the skin barrier.</P>

Preparation of Self Microemulsion of Ferulic Acid

Jinhui Zuo,Qiang Li,Zeyuan Dong,Hong Meng,Li Li,Yinmao Dong 한국피부과학연구원 2017 아시안뷰티화장품학술지 Vol.15 No.3

목적: 본 연구는 페룰산의 자체 에멀젼을 위한 최적의 포뮬러 및 제조공정을 연구 하기 위한 것이다. 방법: Pseudo three phase diagram방법을 이용하여 각기 다른 계면활성제의 마이크로 에멀젼 영역의 형성 크기에 대한 영향을 연구하고, 또한 SZ-100나노입 자분석기를 이용하여, 계면활성제, 보조계면활성제, 오일의 최적의 비율을 확인하였다. 마지막으로 SZ-100나노입자분석기 및 Zeta 전위 분석기를 이용하여 마이크로 에멀젼의 안정성을 확인하였다. 결과: Pseudo three phase diagram방법과 SZ-100나노입자분석 기를 이용하여 측정한 결과를 종합하여, 최적의 에멀젼 처방비율은 polyoxyethylene castor oil (Cremophor EL):polyethylene glycol 40 (PEG 40):무수에탄올:isopropyl myristate (IPM)=3.15:3.15:1.8:1 이고, 에멀젼의 평균입자크기는 15.5 nm 이며, 이때 마이크로 에 멀젼 체계 수분함량은 90% 이었다. 페롤산의 최대 약물적재량(maximum drug loading)은 5.2% 이며, 에멀젼의 안정성 또한 우수하 다는 것을 확인하였다. 결론: 위와 같은 에멀젼 처방의 연구는 페롤산과 같은 불용성 물질의 수중에서의 용해도를 대폭 증가시킴으 로써, 실제 생산응용 시에 중요한 가치를 가질 것으로 사료된다 Purpose: The optimum formulation and preparation process of ferulic acid self microemulsion was studied. Methods: The effect of different surfactants on the formation of microemulsion area was studied by pseudo three phase diagram method. To determine the best ratio among surfactants, cosurfactant and oil phase, the uniformity and particle size of microemulsion was evaluated by nanoparticle size analyzer. Finally, the stability of microemulsion was measured by nanoparticle size analyzer and zeta potential analyzer. Results: Combined the results of pseudo three phase diagram with particle size distribution, the best ratio of self microemulsion:polyoxyethylene castor oil (Cremophor EL): polyethylene glycol 40 (PEG 40):Ethanol:isopropyl myristate (IPM) is about 3.15:3.15:1.8:1. The average particle size of microemulsion is about 15.5 nm which of system contains about 90% water. The maximum drug loading of ferulic acid was 5.2%, and this self microemulsion formulation has good stability. Conclusion: The formula greatly improves the solubility of insoluble materials like ferulic acid in water and it has guiding significance for the application of the microemulsion in practical production.

Effects of Skin Surface Lipids on Skin Health

Faqing Feng,Laiji Ma,Zhaohui Qu,Yinmao Dong,Fan Yi 한국피부과학연구원 2019 아시안뷰티화장품학술지 Vol.17 No.1

Skin surface lipids are composed of sebaceous glands secreting lipids and epidermal disintegration lipids. The main components include triglycerides, free fatty acids, wax esters, squalene, cholesterol and so on. Skin surface lipids adhere to the surface of the skin and rely on their physical, chemical and biological properties to be important for skin health. This article reviews the relevant literatures at home and abroad, briefly describes the effects of skin surface lipids on skin moisturization, anti-oxidation and maintenance of micro-ecology, and mainly introduces the oxidation/metabolism of squalene/free fatty acids, which is more affected by external harmful factors than other skin surface lipids. As well as, the effects on skin health of squalene oxidation products and triglyceride metabolites are introduced. Above all, the oxidation/metabolism of skin surface lipids and the role of their products are illustrated in order to reveal the relationship between skin surface lipids and skin health and to provide a theoretical reference for the research and development of cosmetics by regulating skin surface lipids. Keywords: Skin surface lipids, Squalene, Free fatty acids, Oxidation