MIDDLE EAST CONSUMER BEHAVIOR IMPACT ON STRATEGY OF INDEPENDENT LUXURY BRANDS

Ivan Coste-Manière,Jean-Baptiste Garcin,Maria Bianca Merheb,Susana Georgina Morales García 글로벌지식마케팅경영학회 2015 Global Fashion Management Conference Vol.2015 No.06

LICENSING BEST-PRACTICES OF INDEPENDENT LUXURY BRANDS

Yves Lucky,Ivan Coste-Manière 글로벌지식마케팅경영학회 2015 Global Fashion Management Conference Vol.2015 No.06

The world market for brands and licenses is constantly growing and represents a very interesting economic field. Brands are constantly being sold, and brand ownership may change often completely unbeknown to the majority of consumers. Brands are in fact held as any other assets, either by individuals or by companies, as part of their balance sheet (Lucky & Giliberti, 2013). A multiple case study of independent luxury companies enables us to identify the following best practices: 1) Perfume = Survival Most brands achieve a long lasting market penetration once they successfully move into the fragrancies. Every case study confirms the assumption. 2) Perfume + cosmetics = survival and success It seems that the perfume business and cosmetics in general are the main boosters for a brand to keep on growing and gain if not “top of mind” at least “aided awareness”. 3) Less licensees = more business! As strange as this can be, most luxury brands that have succeeded in keeping a remarkable growth have made the decision not to expand their number of licensees, but rather to dramatically diminish them, selecting, in most of the cases, main licensing categories like: 1- Perfumes and cosmetics 2- Watches 3- Eye glasses 4- Limited ranges of accessories The cases show that massive licensing may have brought very interesting revenues obtained “the easy way” by the brands owners, but have then started a decline in revenues due to many practical reasons: The brand loses its appeal by becoming seen just about everywhere and applied to any type of possible product. The brand simply becomes less exclusive and therefore less luxury. Cases like Saint Laurent (new name used instead of Yves Saint Laurent) in France or Valentino in Italy, clearly indicate that the brands managers have decided to concentrate their core business within a very limited number of licensees making sure that the brand orientation strictly reflects the identity chosen by the (new) owners. The most impressive example of extremely massive licensing tending to pull the brand out of the luxury market is without doubt the one of Pierre Cardin.

PERFUME, THE ART OF TOMORROW

Katia Batoussova,Ivan Coste-Mani?re 글로벌지식마케팅경영학회 2018 Global Marketing Conference Vol.2018 No.07

For centuries, the smell was considered as an inferior sense, underestimated by scholars who considered it linked to animals and sexuality, thus, unsuitable to knowledge. The disinterest of our civilisation for olfaction is reflected by the poverty of the language to describe scents, that comes from our lack of education and culture in this field. In addition, the French law states: “the fragrance of a perfume, which proceeds from the simple implementation of a know-how, does not constitute the creation of a form of expression that can benefit from the protection of copyright”. Yet, thanks to its unique climate to grow flowers in Grasse and the implementation of Fashion Houses in Paris, France is the cradle of Fragrance. How then, can we explain that the first perfume museum in Paris opened only a year ago? For Guillaume de Maussion, the initiator of this tremendous project, it seemed unbelievable that such a place didn’t exist in the French capital city, where Perfume industry is an essential part of the heritage. The Fashion Houses, as Dior, Chanel, Saint-Laurent or Givenchy benefit from this lack of knowledge and spend colossal amounts in Marketing in order to attract consumers. People thus focus on advertisement rather than on the scent and most of the time buy a perfume because of the brainwashing. Fragrances are in this case made with the intention to sell as much as possible. This mass-market industry offers very similar product, at an accessible price and easily available. Consequently, designer brands skimp on the quality using synthetic material and lower concentration. From this aspect, the perfumer is more a technician that aims to seduce the biggest part of the population in order to generate a maximum of profits for the brands. Hence, could perfume be considered as an Art? Is there a future for Fragrance sector, despite the lack of education? Most perfumer compare themselves to compositors, painters, and artists while creating a perfume. Edmond Roudnitska, widely considered as one of the greatest perfumers of 20st century and creator of masterpieces such as Diorissimo or Eau Sauvage, defined himself as a ? perfumer-compositor ?. Nevertheless, with the multiplication of alternatives perfumes brands, the Perfume sector reveals itself and spreads its artistry. Indeed, these niches companies perceive the perfumer as an artist, and the fragrance as a creation. They focus on the scent, using the best quality ingredients, know-how and craftsmanship. Niche devotees often argue that boutique perfumes offer the consumer the opportunity to reward oneself with a scent that is both uncommon and individual. These brands are focused on customer experience and relationship, take time to initiate and educate the customer on scents. According to Euromonitor; “The next five years will likely see the proliferation of small, artisan perfume brands hoping to capture millennials’ hearts, minds and noses.” In addition, a new trend is emerging from perfume experience: olfactory Marketing. Offices, fashion stores, opticians, even bakeries and using this new sensorial dimension. Brands are trying to reinforce their DNA by creating a distinctive scent to make them unique and unforgettable. The scent is completing a visual and auditory experience by bringing soul. Few studies showed that a pleasant fragrance, triggers a positive mood and a customer will stay 30% to 40% longer in a store well perfumed. These facts increase chances to make a purchase and especially to increase loyalty from the customer who will keep a good memory of its experience. Even though scents were created more than thousands of years ago and evolved over the centuries, Fragrance is still unknown and not recognized as a craft. With the rise of artist-perfumers, a willingness of education on scents, the ease of access to information and a real desire of uniqueness and distinction, there is no doubt that Perfume industry is the Art of tomorrow.

The concept of creative collaboration applied to the fashion industry

Margaux Rollet,Jonas Hoffmann,Ivan Coste-Manie`re,Katrina Panchout 한국마케팅과학회 2013 Journal of Global Fashion Marketing Vol.4 No.1

Co-branding is an interesting approach to building differentiation and reputation. In thefashion industry, one well-known example of co-branding is the creative collaborationbetween fashion designers and mass-market retailers. This paper aims to explore thisspecific example of co-branding. It first introduces the concept of co-branding andpresents its application by the Swedish retailer H&M. An exploratory study with aconvenience sample confirms the interest of the approach. Further analysis of thecontrasting results of H&M’s collaborations with Lanvin and Sonia Rykiel shows thatif a co-branding strategy is well managed by integrating compatible elements betweentwo brands – visions, values and wills, to create real synergies – it presents aninteresting path towards creating sustainable brand differentiation.

Can fashion blogs function as a marketing tool to influence consumer behavior? Evidence from Norway

Katarina Halvorsen,Jonas Hoffmann,Ivan Coste-Manie`re,Rasa Stankeviciute 한국마케팅과학회 2013 Journal of Global Fashion Marketing Vol.4 No.3

Through the introduction of Web 2.0, the blogging phenomenon has become animportant marketing channel, as it has enabled a new way of communicating andsharing information through its user-generated content. Today the largest segment ofthe blogosphere consists of fashion blogs, i.e. blogs that focus on fashion brands,fashion products, street style, and personal style. In recent years companies have begunto realize the benefits of using blogs as a marketing tool, as they are a targeted andinexpensive way to get publicity and reach potential consumers. This research aims tostudy whether fashion blogs can function as a marketing tool to influence consumerbehavior, limited to the Norwegian fashion blog arena. The study is based on anexploitative research design as there is little existing research on the subject. We havechosen to explore the subject from three different perspectives: those of the readers, thefashion blogs, and the companies involved in fashion blog marketing. In detail, thestudy looks at the influential power of fashion blogs in context with their strength as acommunication tool for marketing products and brands. The results of the study clearlyindicate that blog advertisements provide companies with a unique opportunity formarket communication, whereby aspects related to credibility and influence can beviewed as incomparable to those involved in traditional advertisement. Through thestudy one can conclude that fashion blogs can indeed affect consumer behavior, as theyhave a unique ability to create a strong relationship between the blog and its readers,resulting in the advertisement being viewed in a personal and non-intrusive way.