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김지연(Jee Yeon Kim),전혜정(Hei Cung Chun) 한국복식학회 2003 服飾 Vol.53 No.3
The purpose of this study is firstly to survey the social and cultural background of 20th century and women`s status, and to identify what the ideal body is like and what the elements of outer garment and underwear are and the techniques to incarnate the ideal beauty. Various papers are referenced for theoretical study and the elements and techniques of underwear are analyzed based on photographical materials. This paper concludes as follows. In 1910`s, ideal beauty has changed to H-style. In other words, the outer garment has confined the lower part of the body with plain H-type Hobble silhouette to express plump bust, somewhat slim waist, and small hips, As the underwears, cylindrical corsets which fasten from under the bust down to lap, brassie`re which are helpful for plump bust, and artificial busts were worn. In 1920`s, outer garment were Straight box silhouette style which were cut as tubular without dart. and the underwears were corselets which have been tubular from the bust to hip and the tubular chemi-knickers. The former corsets which had been hard-boned and been fastened with strings have been replaced by the hook closure due to the development of elastic joining method. In 1930`s, women pursued perfect body showing the line of bust, waist, and hip. In order to express elegant beauty of female of Slim and long silhouette, outer and underwear have been cut with bias and gore, and soft and flexible materials were flowed along the body. World war Ⅱ in 1940`s has made the women as social. Ideal beauty has changed to Short straight box silhouette which no more shows body line. Outer and underwears were simple and practical style. In 1950`s, ideal beauty was well-matured, elegant women which were represented by round shoulder, conical breast, tiny waist and round hip. Outer garment showed Hourglass silhouette representing the body-tight suits with round shoulder pad and the wide flare skirts. As the underwears, conical brassie`re by top circular stitch were preferred for plump and bulged bust and tight corsets for tiny waist and magnificent petticoats were worn.
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