보급형 3D 프린터를 활용한 착용형 패션 프로토타입 개발

전재훈 ( Jaehoon Chun ) 한국의류학회 2017 한국의류학회지 Vol.41 No.3

In this study, three kinds of wearable fashion prototypes were developed using 3D printers with the goal of developing a practical production method for daily clothes. Prototypes were modeled using Rhinoceros software and developed using FDM 3D printers and TPU filaments. The results of this study are as follows. First, it confirmed the possibility of FDM-type entry-level 3D printers as a tool to develop wearable fashion products. Second, TPU filaments that are soft and ductile are highly likely to be used as a clothing material. Third, patterns designed through the 3D modeling process can be sampled directly to a 3D printer and easily corrected and supplemented. Fourth, it was confirmed that TPU prints of about 1.00mm thickness can be sewn with fabric using sewing machines through the development of `Prototype 1` and `Prototype 2`; in addition, hand stitching is also possible. Fifth, as in the case of `Prototype 3`, it is possible to fabricate a garment fit enough to the body if the clothing configuration is designed to connect the basic module using TPU filaments. In the future, the development of wearable fashion prototypes using various materials and 3D printing technology will help diversify everyday clothes.

국내·외 패션협회의 역할 비교를 통한 제언

전재훈 ( Jaehoon Chun ) 한국의류학회 2017 한국의류학회지 Vol.41 No.1

The rapid growth of the Korean fashion industry has contributed greatly to the establishment of various fashion associations that have appeared since the 1960s. Seoul Fashion Week celebrated its 20th anniversary; there is now a crucial opportunity for the role of Korean fashion associations to the world`s top five fashion collections. This study examines and compares the various roles of Korean fashion associations and the fashion associations of France, Italy, USA, and UK. Based on the comparison results, suggestions for the roles of Korean fashion associations are as follows. The following three roles are important in both Korean and foreign associations: stable operation of collections, the creation of various funds to support fashion designers, and foster new designers through linkage with the education programs for textiles and design. Mutual cooperation among various associations is essential to achieve future goals. The specific activities of foreign associations are highly suggestive for direction. In addition to the pursuit of members` rights, it is also desirable to conduct various social activities. It is necessary to create various events that ordinary citizens and students can enjoy in addition to achieving the goal of promoting and selling products at the Seoul Fashion Week. In order to overcome various difficult situations facing Korea and to prepare for a great leap forward for the fashion industry, Korean fashion associations should spare no effort to overcome mutually conflicting interests and understand other perspectives from a macro perspective.

재료 및 기법의 특성에 기반하는 업사이클 패션 디자인 연구

유해민 ( Haemin Yu ),전재훈 ( Jaehoon Chun ) 한국의류학회 2020 한국의류학회지 Vol.44 No.5

The global fashion industry produces significant carbon emission and micro-plastics in oceans. Studies on sustainable design methods as such environmental issues in fashion are becoming intensely problematic. This study conducted a case study on 100 upcycle fashion brands to propose strategical upcycle fashion designs to compete in a sustainable fashion market. A literature review indicated that 3 types of textile wastes are generated as upcycling materials: post-producer, pre-consumer and post-consumer. Wastes are categorized together with 3 types of techniques: redesigning, reconstruction and handcrafting. This research derived 7 types of upcycle fashion designs that have the following features: to make luxury upcycle fashion products, to make sustainable grunge looks, to re-evaluate deadstocks, to recover vintage clothes, to convert waste into craftarts, to offer solutions for damaged products, and to make zero-waste small fabric waste. The study results show that key drivers in the upcycle fashion design are the redesignability of materials and technique-related costs. This study implies that adopting appropriate design features can be a useful strategy for designers. New technologies will solve current problems and encourage them to design products in a new circular value system.

패션산업의 법적 보호와 소송 동향 -한국과 미국의 사례를 중심으로-

이지선 ( Jisun Lee ),전재훈 ( Jaehoon Chun ) 한국의류학회 2020 한국의류학회지 Vol.44 No.6

This study focused on the increasing fashion industry disputes that have resulted from the development of technology and industry. This study examines the improvement of domestic law, along with U.S. precedents that represents a larger fashion market and more legislative cases than Korea. Analyzing previous studies in Korea and the U.S. for theoretical background, it has uncovered limitations that apply to fashion design-related cases, rather than entire lawsuits involving various fashion industries. This study divided litigation into lawsuits involving products, human resources, and other lawsuits (such as incidents such as breach of contract, and portrait rights). Therefore, most lawsuits are related to products because of false socio-cultural perceptions about design imitation in the fashion industry. Lawsuits related to human resources are expected to arise due to the expansion of the Korean fashion industry and the expansion of overseas markets. Finally, new and unexpected conflicts will arise as the environment and social structure diversify. The importance of this study is that real case analysis can help reduce disputes because it can resolve legal instability due to the ambiguity of the interpretation of current law and suggest implications for dispute resolution.

소셜 미디어 속 패션 플렉스(Flex) 현상의 특성

박주하 ( Juha Park ),전재훈 ( Jaehoon Chun ) 한국의류산업학회 2021 한국의류산업학회지 Vol.23 No.1

This study analyzes the characteristics of fashion flex, which have recently spread on social media. The study was conducted with big data analysis that derived flex keywords from news articles and social media as well as case studies that collected 136 posted images on Instagram to analyze the content. The meaning of flex was positively accepted based on big data results. Flex was also a buzzword frequently used on social media as well as a symbolic meaning when discussing luxury goods or fashion brand experiences. The characteristics of fashion flex in social media were largely divided into three categories. First, conspicuous consumption is considered an active expression of individual fashion tastes or self-oriented consumption and emphasizes individuality through consumption. The second characteristic is that the public actively participates in events or fashion flex challenges. People use similar fashion styles or products to participate in playful social interactions with others using various Instagram functions. Finally, acts of pursuing psychological well-being in social media were used as the term flex in a broad sense and were shown to actively explore fashion-related materials and experiences for individual happiness. This study found that the meaning of existing conspicuous consumption is transforming into positive consumption, such as the expression of taste-based identity or the seeking of fun and psychological well-being. It is also meaningful that fashion has become an effective means to express individuality and taste in expressing flex.

뷔욕(Björk)의 패션에 나타난 음악 메시지

정희경 ( Jung Heekyung ),전재훈 ( Chun Jaehoon ) 한국패션디자인학회 2021 한국패션디자인학회지 Vol.21 No.3

아이슬란드 출신의 세계적인 팝 가수 뷔욕은 뮤직비디오와 앨범 커버 등을 통해 독특하고 예술적인 패션의 이미지를 보여주는 방식으로 자신만의 독창적 음악 세계를 시각화해온 예술가이다. 본 연구는 그녀의 패션과 음악의 관계에 주목하고, 뷔욕의 최신 앨범 『Vulnicura』(2015)와 『Utopia』(2017)를 선정, 뮤직비디오, 앨범 커버, 공연 의상, 패션 화보에 나타난 패션 이미지와 앨범의 주제, 가사 및 사운드로 표현된 음악 메시지와의 연계성을 중심으로 분석하였다. 뷔욕을 주제로 한 문헌 연구를 토대로 ‘정체성’, ‘감정’, ‘작가적 세계관’의 분석의 관점을 도출하였으며 정체성은 ‘아이슬란드인’과 ‘여성’으로 작가적 세계관은 ‘자연과 테크놀로지의 조화’와 ‘페미니즘’으로 구체화하였다. 연구 결과, 첫째, 아이슬란드인의 정체성은 아이슬란드의 전통문학과 자연 의식이 반영된 초현실적 가사와 노래 제목에 나타났으며, 아이슬란드의 자연환경에 빗댄 신체와 패션의 이미지로 시각화되었다. 여성 정체성은 엄마나 딸, 실연한 여인 등의 다면적 여성성을 드러내는 가사와 외음부를 연상케 하는 신체와 의상의 디테일로 표현되었다. 둘째, 슬픔의 승화, 열정적 사랑은 가장 두드러진 감정으로 가사와 멜로디 및 악기의 음색과 연주로 표현되었다. 감정의 시각화는 빛과 색의 이미지 및 직물의 소재와 가공법으로 표현되었으며 그로테스크한 설정을 통해 강조되었다. 셋째, 자연과 테크놀로지의 조화는 유기적 사운드와 전자적 사운드의 결합을 통한 음악 스타일로 구현되며, 3D 프린팅 의상, 키네틱 드레스, VR 영상 등 최신 융·복합 매체를 활용한 이미지로 나타났다. 페미니즘은 가부장제를 비판하는 가사와 사람, 곤충, 식물 간의 우위 없는 혼종 패션 이미지를 통해 분별과 대립이 극복된 이상세계로 제시되었다. 본 연구는 음악의 표현적 도구로서의 패션 표현을 다룬 연구로 그동안 하위문화의 범주에서 한정적으로 논의되어 온 팝 스타 패션 연구의 폭을 넓혀, 음악의 주제 및 가사와 사운드가 몸과 패션의 언어로 구현된 작품의 분석을 통해 패션의 예술성과 표현의 확장성을 조명하였다는 데에 연구의 의의가 있다. Icelandic pop singer Björk is an artist who has visualized her unique musical world by presenting artistic fashion images through audio-visual materials. The study selects her latest albums 『Vulnicura』(2015) and 『Utopia』(2017), analyzed the connection between the fashion images shown in the music videos, album covers, stage costumes, pictorials and the music messages expressed in the theme, lyrics, and sound of the albums. Based on the literature studies on Björk, ‘identity, ‘emotion’, and ‘artist’s visions’ were derived as perspectives of analysis and identity was subdivided into ‘Icelandic identity’ and ‘feminine identity’ and the artist’s vision was subdivided into ‘the harmony of nature and technology’ and ‘Feminism’. As for the results of the study, first, Icelandic identity was expressed in surreal lyrics and song titles influenced by Icelandic traditional literature, and visualized as images of body and fashion superimposed on Iceland’s natural environment. Feminine identity was expressed in lyrics from various women’s perspectives and visualized with images of a vulva. Second, ‘sublimation of sadness’ and ‘passionate love’ were the most pronounced emotions, expressed in lyrics, melodies, and instrumental performances. The visualization of emotions was expressed in light and color properties, materials, and processing methods, and was emphasized through grotesque settings. Third, the harmony of nature and technology was expressed through the combination of organic and electronic sounds and visualized using the latest fusion and composite media such as 3D printed costumes, kinetic dresses, and VR images. Feminism was expressed with lyrics criticizing patriarchy and images of hybrid fashion. This study deals with fashion as an expressive tool of music, expanding the scope of pop star fashion research that has been discussed in the subculture categories. The significance of the research is that it shed light on the artistry of fashion and the scalability of expression through music message analysis expressed in fashion.

카툰과 웹툰 속에 나타나는 이성주의 복식과 탈코르셋에 관한 고찰

유희은 ( Hee-eun Yoo ),전재훈 ( Jaehoon Chun ) 한국의류학회 2021 한국의류학회지 Vol.45 No.6

The “Escape the corset” movement raises the question of gender norms in dressing by rejecting the socially established ideal women's clothing. The context is similar to Rational dress of the 19th century, which claimed that women could also wear pants. Cartoons and webtoons reflect the characteristics of each era, including images and stories, and express social problems of the time implicitly and satirically. Thus, this study examined women's clothes expressed in cartoons and webtoons and analyzed their characteristics. The results are as follows. As an expression to the recipient of both clothes, women tried to form their identity through a rational attitude and break away from their embellishment, which was regarded as oppression from society. On the other hand, as an expression of the attitude of others towards the recipient of both clothes, people argued the changed appearance of women as a non-ideal form which should be corrected. This study is significant for proving that the dressing contains gender norms of the time beyond the trends.

가상현실 점포의 특성에 관한 연구 -현대백화점 VR 스토어와 eBay VR 백화점 사례를 중심으로-

장주연 ( Ju Yeun Jang ),전재훈 ( Jaehoon Chun ) 한국의류학회 2018 한국의류학회지 Vol.42 No.4

This study investigates the characteristics of VR stores that emerged as new fashion communication media. Two case studies on Hyundai and eBay VR Department stores were conducted along with a discussion of the function and meaning of the fashion VR store. The results showed that both stores provide novel shopping experiences; however, the two were differentiated in terms of production method and technology implementation level. Functional aspects such as providing shopping efficiency and purchasing service was insufficient in both stores. Instead, they were complementing by means of product rotation, recommendation system, voice guidance, or linkage with an online shopping mall. In experiential aspects, both stores provided a strong sense of immersion. Hyundai VR store enhanced immersion with a high resolution image of a real offline store; however, it lacked in the ability to provide multisensory stimulation such as kinetic sense or auditory stimulation. The eBay VR Department store intensified the immersion experience by providing auditory stimulation as well as visual stimulation that enhanced the speed and distance sense through the utilization of animation. However, the extent of experience was limited in terms of agency and transformation because of the low interactivity found in both store systems.

슬로 패션의 가치를 지향하는 디자이너 브랜드 분석 -John Alexander Skelton과 Geoffrey B. Small을 중심으로-

홍준영 ( Junyoung Hong ),전재훈 ( Jaehoon Chun ) 한국의류학회 2021 한국의류학회지 Vol.45 No.1

‘Slow fashion’ has become a hot issue in the fashion world as fast fashion has caused environmental and ethical problems. This study synthesized the characteristics of slow fashion from preceding studies and organized them into four characteristics (craftsmanship, nature-friendly attitude, localism, and pursuit of exclusive value). This study compared designers, John Alexander Skelton and Geoffrey B. Small with four characteristics. First, both designers sought craftsmanship based on tailoring, but Skelton focused on the eco-friendliness of materials, and Small emphasized the development of high-quality fabrics. Second, we found a nature-friendly attitude in both designers, but unlike Skelton, which maintains nature-friendliness in the process of clothing production, Small showed this characteristic through presentations. Third, both designers revealed localism through their affection for the fabrics and culture of each country. Moreover, Small extended its meaning to respect minority tastes. Finally, both designers pursued exclusive values through collections under the themes of class problem, and gender conflicts. However, Skelton melted these topics into British culture and revealed them indirectly versus Small who showed sensitive topics directly in the collections. This study will provide the foundation for analyzing designers through the characteristics of slow fashion, and suggests directions that slow fashion designers should move towards.

뉴스가치 평가 기준에 따른 패션 뉴스 분석 -온라인 패션 뉴스를 중심으로-

이지선 ( Jisun Lee ),전재훈 ( Jaehoon Chun ) 한국의류학회 2021 한국의류학회지 Vol.45 No.2

Today, false news is increasing in volume, and fashion news often circulates uncritically. Therefore, an evaluation framework is needed to determine whether fashion news is accurate or good. In journalism, the judgment of good news is made through the criterion of news value factors. These factors are the criteria for assessing the likelihood of an event being reported in the news. Through the study of news value by various journalistic scholars, this study selected nine news value factors applicable to the value measurement of fashion news as the framework of analysis. Based on this, after analyzing the actual news on online fashion media, new characteristics and content were reconstructed for fashion news. As a result of the study, it was finally selected that the crucial factors were: expertise, social importance, timelessness, conflict, and negativity for measuring the value of fashion news. To assess the news value of fashion accurately, this study found that reconceptualized news values are needed, which are different from the news values of general journalism. The study is meaningful in that it explores elements and content for the development of a theoretical framework for the qualitative evaluation of fashion news.